You can use ... Fibre Paper (3mm thick) .. to insulate the heat bed . its a ceramic material available from pottery kiln suppliers. Also you can use picture frame clips called Swiss clips, I am using them to hold a piece of glass down onto some fibre paper which is on the heated bed which then sits on a aluminium plate. Cheersby RepRot - General
Hi Richard, Just got back from 2 weeks holiday... As far as end stops, The way I see it.. The min endstop should only become active when you are homing the axis and after that it shouldn't become active when you are doing normal printing (Can't move to a negative position when printing).. With the Max end stop it shouldn't normally become active. When there is a movement error either the minby RepRot - CoreXY Machines
Hi Alan, Great you got the endstops working. Something you may find good is to add some extra LCD menu commands..... Come across the below in the forums which helped me a lot..... There was a item about using an opto stop to pause print when filament runs out. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------by RepRot - CoreXY Machines
Hi Alan, I have all the endstops enabled with my Openbeam coreXY. From what I can remember.... Apart from the settings in Configuration.h e.g. Line 337 - have the following inactive e.g //#define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS Line 338 - have the following inactive e.g //#define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS Line 375 - have the following set e.g #define X MAX_POS 200 Line 376 - have the followingby RepRot - CoreXY Machines
Come across the below in the forums which helped me a lot..... There was a item about using an opto stop to pause print when filament runs out. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Adding home x to the LCD is easy. All you need to do is find the following in ultralcdby RepRot - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Sorry no BOM at this stage. I do have a number of drawings in Coreldraw of most of the parts. I don't have the time at present with other summer activities. Hopefully will get time in the near future. Just starting to fine tune the printing. Using Pronterface and Slic3r. Hotend is all metal one with no Teflon tube. Very pleased with CoreXY and have all the min and max end stops working. Printby RepRot - CoreXY Machines
Hi Linuxbaba, Just purchased a Fractal Tesla R2 500w power supply. Measures 150mm x 86mm x 165mm. So it fitted with no problems. Outputs up to 41 amps for the 12v supply. Very easy to modify, needed to jump a few voltage sense wires within the power unit. I feed out 3 wires to each of the 4 ramps power connections. Very quite unit. Hot end heats from 22 degrees C to 200 in 1.5 minutes. - Heat beby RepRot - CoreXY Machines
Hi Linuxbaba, I used Alibre CAD, unless you have Alibre I don't think you can view the CAD pictures. I can export it to a PDF file which gives a 3D view (7.11M. Sent me a PM with your email address if you would like a copy. Current status........................... I have got all the firmware working for moving the XYZ axis motors as well as the extruder motor. Using both Min and Max end stopsby RepRot - CoreXY Machines
On my Openbeam COREXY, I attached my bearings/pulleys using the block arrangement as per attached picture. Used model helicopter bearings; 10mm (outside dia) x 5mm (inside dia) x 4mm (width), sourced via Ebay. Block arrangement gives solid non-twisting but also you can slide them about for fine alignment adjustments. You just have to make sure the bearings are position right before doing up theby RepRot - CoreXY Machines
3. Why haven't I seen, yet, a printer of the type 3 above (bed moving in Z downwards, extruder moving in X and Y, fixed to the top) but with the kind of split extruder you see on the Polar-3d type? This combo, to me, should bring the most pros ant the least cons. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Take a look at CoreXY section. A number of people haveby RepRot - Mechanics
In regards to Dupont style connectors, I have just crimped approx. 100 (combination of male and female pins) on a wiring harness for my Openbeam CoreXY build. All motors and sensors are running and no issues with pins pushing out Some pins were soured in NZ, others from China. Found no real difference between them. I think it mainly comes down to the size of wire, size of the insulation of tby RepRot - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Some more pictures of my Openbeam CoreXY build.. Wiring now added with Min and Max switches on all axis. Still awaiting my hot head and bed thermistor to arrive. I made a couple of changes with the mounting of the Z motor to allow the wiring harness to be better attached. Also it makes it easier to adjust the Z motor for better alignment. Added two mechanical end stops on the Y axis, X axis dby RepRot - CoreXY Machines
Some more pictures of my Openbeam CoreXY build.. Wiring now added with Min and Max switches on all axis. Still awaiting my hot head and bed thermistor to arrive. I made a couple of changes with the mounting of the Z motor to allow the wiring harness to be better attached. Also it makes it easier to adjust the Z motor for better alignment. Added two mechanical end stops on the Y axis, X axis doesby RepRot - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Thanks for the good comments, One of my aims with this design is make it a multi tool. 3D printer, laser cutter, soft material router and possibly use a high voltage electric arc to cut thin aluminium if the EMF emission doesn't take down the phone network or blow the electronics. (plasma cutter). I have used a couple of large connector sockets at the top right rear for the electrical connectionby RepRot - CoreXY Machines
Hi, Some pictures of a CoreXY Openbeam I have designed and currently building in Rotorua, New Zealand.. A good few hours on the CAD program.... Still got to source a bulk lot of screws and nuts and a Bowden extruder head assembly. Then I will do the final assembly. (Currently using temporary screws and nuts. The nuts I had don't fit the Openbeam extrusions). Still finishing the extruder motby RepRot - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Hi, Some pictures of a CoreXY Openbeam I have designed and currently building in Rotorua, New Zealand.. A good few hours on the CAD program.... Still got to source a bulk lot of screws and nuts and a Bowden extruder head assembly. Then I will do the final assembly. (Currently using temporary screws and nuts. The nuts I had don't fit the Openbeam extrusions). Still finishing the extruder motoby RepRot - CoreXY Machines
I would look at water jet cutting. I have just had some Openbeam angle brackets cut in Rotorua out of 2mm aluminium. Designing and building an CoreXY Openbeam Reprap. You don't get heat warping with water jet cutters. Makes excellent cuts, only thing we found that cutting small 3mm holes that the aluminium is a bit soft and it blows the hole slightly bigger on one side, doesn't happen with hardeby RepRot - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I would also subspect the stainless tube is conducting the heat and the plastic is getting soft at the upper area of the stainless tube and explanding with the pressure of the motor pushing the plastic into the tube. Also make sure the PTFE tube sleeve is position right to the nozzel. If not an amount of plastic will form there which can cause problems. Try some cooling.. Some pictures of my prby RepRot - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Hi, I was using fibre glass insulated nichrome wire on a brass barrel with a thermal coupler temperature sensor. the assembly was wrapped with kapton tape. This assembly gave off a really bad smell. Dismantling the unit, both the fibre glass insulation as well as the kapton tape were very charred. The nichrome wire heater didn't fail. Another issue I had was the a delay when extruding and oozeby RepRot - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Built my most of my machine using polycarbonate - great material for building with if you have a milling machine. See write up at - Just upgraded it with a Makebot MK6+ extruder that has stainless steel barrel lined with PTFE - had to use a fan to cool the PLA filament to stop it going soft and benting before it entered the extruder assembly.by RepRot - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Just upgraded my Makerbot Mk3 brass barrel that had nichrome wrapped around it with a MakerBot MK6+ assembly on my Restrap machine. The MakerBot MK6+ uses a PTFE tube down a stainless steel tube with a heater block. You also need to install a thermal protector PCB to protect should a failure occur and the heater ends up with continous power. I have found that the new heater takes a little longeby RepRot - New Zealand RepRap User Group
When printing on blue painters masking tape, use a piece of sand paper to lightly scratch the surface and then clean it with some Isopropyl alcohol (Sold often as tape head cleaner) and don't touch it after you have cleaned it. Natural oil from your hands will reduce the bonding. I think some blue painters masking tape has a film material that needs removing. The stuff I use feels a bit oily. Iby RepRot - General
I design objects using a CAD program called Alibre. I export the file as a .stl file. I get the same thing - What you need to do Use a program like Blender (free). Load the .stl file, select Render on the top tool bar, select Render Current Frame. Then from top tool bar, select file , export stl. You should then be able to load the rendered .stl file with the Reprap software and generate Gby RepRot - General
Interested to know what temperature you are running at and how long before it burns off the fibreglass insulation? Are you using ABS of PLA? Sellers of fire places & WoodBurners are a good source to get fireproof cement. They often sell small quanities (tubes) of the stuff.by RepRot - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Hi, You don't have to auto sync the two axis stepper motors. You can just common up the stepper driver inputs (Enable/DIR/Step) and connect them directly to the processor. This will mean that each stepper motor will move in sync from their start position. The issue is, if the stepper motor that doesn't have the home sensor moves for any reason (e.g. being manually turned, vibration when not beinby RepRot - RAMPS Electronics
Hi, In regards to your idea for a new reprap design.. I built a mendal design type machine using two stepper motors for the Z axis. I wanted to be able to keep both stepper motors in sync and not have the extruder head crash into the print plate at one end. I ended up using two stepper driver boards, two Z axis sensors with an additional PCB to allow driving the two stepper drivers and sync-inby RepRot - RAMPS Electronics
Not sure if this may help. Built a Mendal based machine using 24 volt steppers with separate driver PCB's which are driven from an Arduino Mega 2560 processor. Refer to below link. Still working away with updating more data about this machine when time permits..by RepRot - Controllers
I have been using Version 20110207 on an Arduino Mega 2560 using thermocouplers with no problems so far.. To setup firmware I needed to make a couple of changes: PC operating system = Window XP Arduino Firmware = Version 22 In ( configuration.h ) --------- I selected #define DEFAULTS MENDEL_MEGA_DEFAULTS To verife/complile firmware in ( FiveD_GCode_Interpreter ) I had to place- #include "Wby RepRot - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I take it that the Nichrome wire from Surplustronics is un-insulated.by RepRot - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I build one, refer to NZ forum post - Rotorua RepRap I glued 16 15 ohm 10watt resistors with thermal adhesive to an Aluminum sheet 200mm x200mm 4 mm. I used a 150 watt interior lighting transformer (240 volt ac to 12 volt ac) and switched this with a 20amp solid state relay. Parts obtained from Element14: 15 ohm 10watt resistors at $10.59 each (Total $169.44 for 16 ). PN# 1545521 Thermby RepRot - New Zealand RepRap User Group