There is no CMYK kit printer, but the official Prusa I3 V2 can print 4 colours with an addon kit.by GRAYWOLF - General
QuoteUnicronNL @stephi I use PC from hobbyking, print-bed 170c and nozzle 315c, no warping problems with these temps (my printbite is slowly turning brownish ) I use ABS print-bed 100c and nozzle 240c get temp related adhesion issues (cold air blowing trough room) Mine is turning brown I am wondering about removing the glass and putting the bite directly to the aluminium heatbed.by GRAYWOLF - General
QuoteJamesK Quotechris33 wd40 isnt a lubricant its a degreaser True, but a lot of Chinese parts come with protective grease for transport and storage, and wd40 would likely work quite well for removing that. The question then becomes what to use for a normal lubricant. Actually it is a Water Dispersal agent formula number 40 (didn't you ever wonder where the name came from? I found a very goodby GRAYWOLF - Reprappers
Check your fans and check your filament feed.by GRAYWOLF - General
Have you downloaded and run print run?by GRAYWOLF - Reprappers
Funny, I have a reel of gray that does this, but the black and blue doesn't split! I am using raft because of bed level issues and that stick fine to the bed, but the part just lifts of the raft. Mind you, the temps in the UK atm are making ABS a nightmare to print!by GRAYWOLF - Printing
Quotethe_digital_dentist Grab your extruder like Trump would grab a pussy and try to wiggle it. See it moving? *snip*. If someone doesn't find that disturbingly funny then they are a different level of sanity to most.by GRAYWOLF - Printing
Finally getting a clean print on the printbite without extra nonsense. My bed is flexing during the initial home height probe and giving odd results to the firmware (uses z endstop for probing ) Having to reissue the autobed command before printing and having to use a raft to compensate for the unlevel bed. Once I sorted out that and the z-offset issue, printbite really bites my prints. Thank yby GRAYWOLF - General
I'm trying to cut a round hole in a model but I keep getting QuoteInvalid operation Is anyone able to fix this for me?by GRAYWOLF - 3D Design tools
Have you done all the calibration steps? Could be that your Z-offset is not correct (this need to be adjusted for each individual printer) Try some pva glueby GRAYWOLF - Printing
It should fit into the gap under the bulldog but as i said, I forgot to make the whole in the bottom. Things to do. Add fan mount, Add laser bracket mount, Lower chassie, Add Belt clamp mounting points, Re-align the wheels, Add sensor mount, Add gap for hotend, Add reinforce chassis, Add supports for overhang, Still a long way to go.by GRAYWOLF - Look what I made!
So the clearance is to high, the wheels aren't the same distance from the Bulldog, the thing split and I forgot to make clearance for the hotend, but This is my X-carriage for 20x20 aluminium V-Slot extrusion. It is very WIP and not uploaded to thingverse yet. It is supposed to be for a corexy machine that will have a laser mounted on the front. Thank you mods for moving it.by GRAYWOLF - Look what I made!
If that doesn't work then there is another option that needs changing (cant remember which)by GRAYWOLF - Reprappers
QuoteWZ9V I have a 200x300mm PCB style heated bed which is supported at the four corners. What thickness of glass should I use for that size bed? I'm currently using standard window pane glass from the h/w store and I'm seeing a bit of sag in the middle when printing things that are close to the 300mm length. If you intend to have an inductance probe the the glass needs to be less then 4mm. orby GRAYWOLF - General
I am getting PLA sticking to blue masking tape (decorators tape) at 0 degrees, it now does after resetting the heatbed and adjusting the hotend/extruder mount (it had snapped!) My only issue now is (having gone from ABS to PLA, @ 185, I keep getting blockagesby GRAYWOLF - Printing
Both my ramps1.4 show the screen lit with text on them when only powered over usbby GRAYWOLF - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm going to Ooznest and Mutly3d to the list. Ooznest has always answered my technical questions on facebook and always been fast sending out orders. and Mutly3d for his Printbite.by GRAYWOLF - General
Quoteerniehatt Thanks for the link, just how difficult is it to make the necessary changes. I am not a technician of any kind, just a hobbyist. What Laser machine do you have? (link or pic) What laser do you have connected? (link or pic) What hardware controller are you using? What firmware is running on the controller? Have you read through Jphotonics web site? Do you understand it? To controlby GRAYWOLF - Laser Cutter Working Group
Oh wow, I thought it was just me that had this issue.by GRAYWOLF - Printing
Quoterastaman46 I got pair a these on my 445NM laser works fine Glasses claims protection from 190nm to 540nm See attached for laser wavelengths Any one correct me if im wrong!!! Regards I ordered a pair of them but cool, pic.by GRAYWOLF - Laser Cutter Working Group
Quotedevers6 and the X Carriage at the moment is a very simple Bowden mount with support for two fan ducts (which are probably overkill, particularly for ABS). Dave Thats great look carriage but it is useless for ABS.(it is a design that would alow the easy addition of an led laser engraver. You don't want air blowing down onto the print as it will cause the plastic to warp and separate,by GRAYWOLF - CoreXY Machines
So I'm in the UK and utterly confused. I am building a laser based around a 1W 405nm laser (well thats what its marked as) blue/UV but I am confused over what glasses I need. Can anyone in the UK point me to a reliable safe, correct pair of glasses please?by GRAYWOLF - Laser Cutter Working Group
I am not related to or connected to this company except in the fact that I own one of their 3d printers. Ooznest is a reliable UK company that sells 3d printers and their parts. http://ooznest.co.uk And they also have an ebay shop. http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/ooznest?rt=ncby GRAYWOLF - General
I use a heat bed @100, hot end at 240, printbite cover on glass with a drop of abs slurry and no enclosure. The only issue I have is with a bad real of abs (but that is working it self out) My problem is that I need a new hotend to use pla.by GRAYWOLF - General
If you are thinking of replacable toolheads the look at how the Toranado handels the electrical connections. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1246951by GRAYWOLF - Reprappers
QuoteDalius98 Well in my case, I am using a 220V AC 800W heater, which came with ~30cm long leads and I need some way of extending them. So far I was under the impression that these screw terminals are a really good solution... guess not... Um, well my sugestion wont work as the boards are only 12v..... By my count it wont blow a 10A as its only around 3.6amps! Strange. As others have said, youby GRAYWOLF - General
For best performance, do away with the blocks and connect direct to the main board terminalsby GRAYWOLF - General
Agreed, try one of these new surfaces that stick on or replace the glass bed. I use Print bite instead of Kapton+abs slurry.by GRAYWOLF - General
Generally prices are not posted because they often add discounts varying on customer needs. That is the normal business practice.by GRAYWOLF - General
I have a few question concerning raspberry pi based 3d scanners and I'm not sure where to ask. Q1 - How far from the camera can the turntable be? Q2 - Does the Pi Zero run the software? Q3 - Does the new camera result in better scans? Q4 - Does the new Pi3 result in better scans?by GRAYWOLF - 3D Scanners, Book Scanners, and Optics