Just him. Technically there's no specific software requirement for that printer. You can continue with that setup, or switch to whatever control or slicer software you prefer. That's the software combo I started with, worked fine, I just wanted my printers to be untethered so I switched to Octoprint.by Gecko23 - Delta Machines
Maybe try this fork of Marlin 1.1.9: - you may need to tweak the particular delta parms in configuration.h, but you have to calibrate after you get it loaded anyways. It will compile with this Arduino version: My guess is that the original firmware is a pre-1.1.x release Marlin, and used an old, deprecated version of Arduino to compile and that's where most of your problem is coming from. Yby Gecko23 - Delta Machines
If you already know your arms are not correct, forget about troubleshooting the print. The arms *must* be equal lengths for a Delta to produce correct results. If they are not, the effector tilts, and the nozzle deviates badly from the expected flattend curve it should follow. Your plan for "upgrades" looks good. I use magballarms (from "blue eagle labs", which I think is Haydn's retail site?) aby Gecko23 - Printing
Tell it to move faster, what does "G1 Z10 F4500" do?by Gecko23 - Delta Machines
When you reflashed Marlin with the new height, you also refreshed the EEPROM? New Marlin values don't 'stick' unless you explicitly do that step. (M501 to load new Marlin defaults from firmware image, M500 to save to EEPROM) You're sure your probe is working? M119 shows correct state when open/triggered? It's not triggering early or just from effector movement?by Gecko23 - Delta Machines
No, the effector does not move to [0,0,0] on homing, that's the center of the build plate. The top of the columns is at [0,0,maximum z]. So you want to move the effector to that position, but don't want the printer to think it's been homed? Why not just record that position's coordinates (via M114) and whenever you want to do this, just use G1 ? If your printer *is* decending to the build plateby Gecko23 - Firmware - Marlin
>The power supply is connected correctly as are the EXP1 and EXP2 cables between the boards. Flip the plugs over, same sockets, just so the notched side is opposite where it is now.by Gecko23 - Controllers
You only need to define the 'HAVE_TMC????' lines if you have wired them up to use SPI/UART control, otherwise the boards should 'just work' in standalone mode. FWIW, in standalone mode they will run much quieter than the 4988's they replace, and honestly, being able to program the on the fly for voltage and step rate is solidly 'meh' IMHO since you're unlikely to vary those settings once you pickby Gecko23 - Controllers
some things that come to mind: 2208 drivers step *the opposite direction* of the 4988's you replaced. There are defines in configuration.h to tell Marlin to invert the axis, alternatively you can make your step rate negative for any axis you have 2208s on, some people even resort to re-arranging the pins in the connectors. Just uncommenting the 'invert_x_axis' or whatever define is the simplestby Gecko23 - Controllers
Ever considered a silica aerogel blanket ? The thermal properties are remarkable.by Gecko23 - Delta Machines
I got rid of varying layers on my printer by changing spool holders, went from a solid plastic one to one with bearings embedded into it. Turns out there was enough friction to interfere with smooth extruder movements.by Gecko23 - Delta Machines
FWIW, I got my PEI from gizmodorks via Amazon, it's 1 mm thick, light brown in color, super glossy. Is it really PEI? I have no way to know. What I can say is that I used them to source sheets for two printers, and in both cases I sanded off the gloss and stuck the sheet down with adhesive film and it works wonderfully for PLA. I tried it glossy, wouldn't stick. I tried it clipped, wouldn't stickby Gecko23 - Printing
MakerFarm Prusa i3 6". I've had one up and running for a couple of weeks, still looks to be available.by Gecko23 - General
If you start it in 'Expert' mode, then there's an option on the 'Printer Settings' tab labeled 'Custom G-Code' that allows you to add your own code at start, end, layer change, and tool change. So say you calibrate your e-steps, finding '820' as the ideal number, then you can add "M92 E820" to the 'start' section and avoid re-flashing your board.by Gecko23 - Slic3r