EDIT: -------- nvm ---------------by TheTechnicalNoob - Reprappers
Have you adjusted the amperage setting on the stepper drivers? They can be adjusted to deliver more or less amps, so it gets more or less power. If it's set too low it simply won't move. You don't want it too high either as otherwise it gets too warm and it will stop moving until it cools down. Often it only takes a fraction of a second to cool down, but it can be enough to make it mess up a prinby TheTechnicalNoob - Reprappers
I started a thread about a while back. It pretty much can't be done with a nema 14, as a nema 17 has enough trouble doing 3mm direct drive as it is. With the nema 14 you'd want to be taking the geared extruder route.by TheTechnicalNoob - FoldaRap
From: Quotereprap wiki If your print head is too high or low in the middle of the print surface, adjust DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET by half mm and try again. DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET is the horizontal offset from middle of printer to smooth rod center. I don't own a delta (yet) so I'm just going by what the wiki page says. See Johann's blog entry on how to fix this:by TheTechnicalNoob - Delta Machines
Just put your finger on the heatsink. If you can hold it there comfortably without burning it, it should be ok. I would think its a software calibration problem. From: Quotereprap wiki If your print head is too high or low in the middle of the print surface, adjust DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET by half mm and try again. EDIT: See Johann's blog post for the solution to the head moving up and down asby TheTechnicalNoob - Delta Machines
Find this in your configuration. It's line 389. #define ACCURATE_BED_LEVELING_POINTS 2 #endif That's the variable that sets the bed leveling to use 2x2 grid of probing points in configuration.h . Make it as large a variable as you see fitby TheTechnicalNoob - Delta Machines
You got the right firmware. Have a read here: I think it will answer your question.by TheTechnicalNoob - Delta Machines
With the marlin firmware you have to enable SDSUPPORT in the configuration. Then you format the sdcard for FAT16 format and put a file on it called auto0.g which is your sliced gcode and it should automatically run it. I'd image its similar to the way other firmwares do it. You will need an sdcard slot of course. SdRamps is a good choice I hear (http://reprap.org/wiki/Sdramps). I myself use a aby TheTechnicalNoob - Printing
On my bowden tube friction is minimal. Sounds like something might be wrong with your tube. It wouldn't hurt to measure it and check if its the right size. The piece of tube that I was shipped was all the right size except for the last 20cm which strangely was a bit more transparent and smaller with very high friction. Seeing you are using direct drive you should be able to get some fast retractby TheTechnicalNoob - Delta Machines
Did you use a bowden tube on your delta-pi? I have a scannermashup repstrap with a bowden tube and it works very well. I only had to calibrate the right amount of filament retract and set a fast retract speed. I'd recommend using a bowden tube on a delta for sure, but both setups will work. If you used a direct drive right on the end effector the weight being moved around on a delta head it wby TheTechnicalNoob - Delta Machines
Erik's Marlin repository has autobed leveling for square printing platforms with a configurable amount of probing points. It supports delta geometry but comes setup for cartesian. Have a read in the configuration.h it has instructions on how to set it up for delta style.by TheTechnicalNoob - Delta Machines
I think people do what they do on a project for the love of the project, not for money. If enough money gets throw at a bounty, I could see that changing. But, if the criteria of the bounty are met and quality of work is good it shouldn't be an issue.. but who am I to say. Well, I finally put my money where my mouth isby TheTechnicalNoob - Delta Machines
Try another calibration cube: That one is 10mm cubed. Typically if your e-steps values are off you'll get prints that aren't scaled correctly.by TheTechnicalNoob - General
It could also be that your extruder isn't putting out enough plastic. If the layers are a bit thin after a few layers it'll accumulate and there'll be a gap. Try with a slightly higher extrusion multiplier if you use slic3r or higher e steps value or maybe even recalibrate your extruder to get it spot on.by TheTechnicalNoob - General
I'm not too sure about this, but parts tend to shrink a bit when they cool and if you're printing a bit on the cold side they may not stick very well. Try raise the temperature a few degrees. For me 5degrees makes a difference.by TheTechnicalNoob - General
I have a 0.5 mm nozzle and I have succesfully printed things in nylon with 0.1mm layer height. I have read about other people doing prints in .1mm layer heights. Just try it on something small and see what works. EDIT: I haven't tried PLA or ABS because I don't have any yet.by TheTechnicalNoob - General
So homing is working? EDIT: I find that if I try move things too fast it messes up, or doesn't move at all. Try use some really slow print speeds. 30mm/sec (1800mm/min) is a good starting point. Also make sure you have the steps per mm set correctly.by TheTechnicalNoob - General
Slic3r has software support for this. So you define one extruder as extruder 1 and the other as 2. Then you define which extruder to use for infill and which to use for perimeters. So yes it can be done, and it looks like it will be fairly straight forward to setupby TheTechnicalNoob - General
I have a pretty switch that I retract and deploy manually on my repstrap. The glass sheet is glued directly to the flatbed scanner carriage and isn't level so the autolevel works sweet for it.by TheTechnicalNoob - Delta Machines
Hopefully I will be able to print a geared extruder in pla with the current setupby TheTechnicalNoob - Delta Machines
Right now I'm printing with 2.7mm nylon weed eater line using a 6.7mm diameter hobbed gear directly driven. No stripping. Seems to be working, though I doubt it will continue to work when I get PLA and put it in there. EDIT: I though it was good, and thats true, for anything slower than 40mm/sec otherwise it starts to slip.by TheTechnicalNoob - Delta Machines
I don't know why it'd pulse like that. The only thing that I can think of is perhaps your gearing on your filament drive may be too low. After a bit of googling i found this: QuoteNudel Have you checked the tension on the extruder idler, and cleaned the teeth of the filament driver (hobbed bolt/gear, depending on your machine)? If the teeth are partly clogged (due to too high or too low idlerby TheTechnicalNoob - Mechanics
For a round heatbed you could do a diy job:by TheTechnicalNoob - Delta Machines
You can leave the unused wires on the old connector, anything is fine really just as long as there are no bare wires laying around. It shouldn't be a problem.by TheTechnicalNoob - General
Yes its been done, its called auto bed leveling. Very handy. This one uses a servo: This one doesn't: Not sure if thats exactly what you wanted, but it gets your z height set perfectly which then means your first layer is whatever you set it to be.by TheTechnicalNoob - General
Initially I was going to say "oh so you're using T2.5 pulleys" but, just looking at the wiki page and reading this thread it appears it's not a source of backlash if they're setup properly. The T in T2.5 means Timing. The belt has a square tooth profile and was intended for driving stuff in one direction, not precision positioning. GT2 belt and pulley profiles on the other hand have parabolicallyby TheTechnicalNoob - General
Using lead screws is very possible. The trouble with screws is that they are slow. Terribly slow, unless you find some screws with a steeper thread on them. Have a look here for lots more info: He's building a delta printer with lead screws. Pulleys: It sounds like you're using printed pulleys? They are probably one of the most critical parts in the printer affecting print quality directly. Ifby TheTechnicalNoob - General
How would you add it as G1 command? Thanks for bringing this up, I googled for this on several occasions and didn't find anything.by TheTechnicalNoob - Delta Machines
Be very careful with superglue, if you drop it into the motor bearings it WILL seize them. Just so you knowby TheTechnicalNoob - Delta Machines
If you want to try get some locally from a fellow reprapper try post in that specific area's user group: I'm guessing string straight on the motor shafts would work if you use a drop of superglue to fix it to the shaft. Make sure its free of oily fingerprints or else the glue won't grab very well. This page has some good pictures on it, gives you a good idea of what you're after: Greetings,by TheTechnicalNoob - Delta Machines