QuoteDjDemonD I do like petg and its very strong, but it doesn't produce such sharp objects as ABS and it oozes all over the place, so its swings and roundabouts. Then you have something not calibrated correctly. I get sharp corners just fine.by MrBaz - General
- Get rid of any ABS -- worst material ever - Replace ABS with PETG - PETG @ 250C hotend and 70C bed - PLA @ 230C and 50C bed (I don't use normal PLA) - Use boro or tempered glass of decent thickness (picture frame glass is a NONO) - Clean glass thoroughly with a good glass cleaner before each print - Heated bed is a necessity BIGGEST RULE EVER: --->> Wait until the glass is COMPLETELY coby MrBaz - General
I've used rcfoam.com lots of times. That could be because I was living 5 minutes away from their warehouse in Colorado Springs at one time. If they are out of stock of an exact tube you want, call them up and ask them about it. Sometimes their website doesn't match the warehouse. If it is truly out, they can at least tell you when it will be in stock next. You can see them on my BazBot:by MrBaz - Delta Machines
I hooked it up like a dumb dumb. When I got it working, it gave me inconsistent extrusion. My prints came out worse. I'm switching back.by MrBaz - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Looks like over extrusion. Print a single walled cube. Measure the wall thickness and then compare it to your extrusion thickness (for perimeters) in your slicer.by MrBaz - Printing
Maybe it just requires more advanced user experience? I have had no problems with Windows 10 on any of my boxes. (I am the network admin for a Win 10 and Linux network) All lot of the settings you mention do exist. They just aren't organized in a pretty menu with big buttons. You could either disable the service, play with the registry editor, or explore the many uses of group policy. MicroSby MrBaz - General
Tried the diode hack with 1N5408 diodes and I think something is wrong. The extruder doesn't move at all. I made sure they were on different phases of the motor.by MrBaz - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
QuoteJamesK You want a set of diodes in-line with each coil, so as long as you get different coils it doesn't matter exactly which wires you use. I used the two outer wires when I did mine. This is exactly what I thought. I made sure they were on two separate coils, which also happened to be the outside two wires for me as well (Black and Blue). The rest of the printer moves. I can home it anby MrBaz - Printing
So I tried the diode fix, but something is not connected correctly. The extruder doesn't work at all now. Which woes do I connect the does to?by MrBaz - Printing
Quotepeepsalot OK I double checked my work and it turns out I had accidentally soldered the wrong pin. Setting to fast decay does fix the missed microsteps. How is the noise afterward? Also, along with solving the missing microsteps, does it smooth out all of the microsteps better? I'm trying to figure out whether I want to do the fast decay mode hack, or the diode hack. I'm not so sure I'mby MrBaz - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Quoteengmaster QuoteMrBaz Bed isn't level (can tell by the first level). Extruder pulses could be causing the moire. My bed still close from extruder, tested with office paper. I need nozzle touching the bed or one office paper? With office paper distance, when print start the nozzle still in 0,3mm away showed in M114(first layer size).. So I have the officepaper size + 0,3mm... It is correct oby MrBaz - Printing
This was printed on a Delta at 50mm/s. Rumba electronics. Took the picture using my cellphone believe it or not. It is just a 100% crop. I was thinking of trying to force the driver into fast decay mode. How does the diode mod (I've read the blog about it - very interesting) differ in performance to the fast decay hack?by MrBaz - Printing
Bed isn't level (can tell by the first level). Extruder pulses could be causing the moire.by MrBaz - Printing
Using DRV8825 in 1/32 to drive extruder with MK8 gear. Running 24V supply. Could this be the decay issue with these stepper drivers? Notice how the first 4-6 layers are perfect. The rest are messed up.by MrBaz - Printing
Have you checked the horizontal offset? That value will change the cupping or doming behavior.by MrBaz - Delta Machines
To keep things relative, it would be interesting for those of us running bowden setups to post how long our bowden tube is and what our retract settings are for respective materials.by MrBaz - Printing
1 - Heating element directly on the glass? - bad 2 - glue stick for anything but what is absolutely necessary? - bad 3 - prying parts off of the bed without waiting for it to cool down COMPLETELY - doubly bad Unless it is nylon, pretty much EVERYTHING will stick to a CLEAN, finely tuned/calibrated/leveled, heated piece of glass. Are you SURE that was boro glass? It is always advisable to wait foby MrBaz - General
What size wire were you using for the bed? You are running a computer power supply, so at 12V you were pushing at least 10A through those wires. I'm betting you had too small of wire and a bad connection. You don't just melt two sets of the same component and blame it on the boards.by MrBaz - General
More details. 1.5 what? Amps? Turn that way back down. You are skipping like crazy.by MrBaz - Delta Machines
Any printer type will meet your requirements. We need more details about your max build size and height, and what types of things you will be printing. That will drive what type of printer is best for you.by MrBaz - Delta Machines
QuoteJamesK FSRs run about $15 each, where as piezo disks are about 18c each in quantities of 10. Call me cheap, but that's not a bad start. I head no idea they were so cheap! I ordered a kit of 3 FSRs and a controller board for $30 which I see as very affordable, but if you could cut that price in half, that would a very attractive option.by MrBaz - General
This is really interesting stuff, but I still don't see how these are better than FSRs.by MrBaz - General
Is the Simplify3D software going to become more affordable anytime soon?by MrBaz - General
QuoteJamesK Fantastic. I'd love to have that capability. What camera were you using? Testo 876 - old and partially defunct.by MrBaz - General
Here are some more pictures of the RUMBA I have running my Delta printer. This is JUST the bed running up to temp - where the PID is nearly full on (I limit it to a PWM value of 240). Note how the MOSFET is the hottest part. The thermal fuse gets warm, obviously. The wires are undersized, yes, but they are high-temp silicone wire. I will be replacing them eventually. An overlay of a thermaby MrBaz - General
Decided to take a look at my 3D printers with a thermal imager. Please, IGNORE THE THERMAL TEMPERATURE LEGEND. This camera hasn't been calibrated properly. I'll get on that eventually. Thing-o-Matic heated bed. Note: You can see the heat signature from the stepper motor that is being hidden by the wooden X-axis structure (off to the left). ToM Hotend. E3D V6 extruding: My Delta's Hby MrBaz - General
How long does it take before one notices the y-axis skipping issue? Is it an immediate thing?by MrBaz - Repetier
What version of the RUMBA board do you have? (when did you purchase it?) I'm running a RUMBA on my delta. I remember reading about this problem in a couple of forums before I assembled everything. So far, I haven't had any problems, so I'm wondering if only certain batches had this issue?by MrBaz - Repetier