Quotetjb1 I find Aqua Net hairspray works very good with PLA and ABS, just cover the bed lightly before every print. Takes just a couple seconds and don't have to deal with brushes or tape. But you have to worry about highly flammable sticky hairspray getting over everything....by MrBaz - Reprappers
Quotedave3d Acetone is not particularly toxic. It is produced naturally in the body after all. It is best to avoid breathing it in though. For me, ABS juice did not work if applied directly on glass. The print didn't just lift in a corner, it completely dislodged even with the glass at 110 deg C. ABS juice works well if it is used on top of Kapton tape, but this is hassle. Elmers glue is easyby MrBaz - Reprappers
Yag lasers are still too expensive. Fiber and diode lasers are still cost prohibitive. A traditional CO2 laser tube might not be as efficient, but they sure as heck are a ton cheaper. A 30W CO2 laser is enough for any polymer powder. The 10nm wavelength makes any polymer opaque without the need for colorants to absorb the laser eavelength, unlike Yag and some fiber lasers. Sintering metal?by MrBaz - Powder Printing and Selective Laser Sintering
QuoteFloyd I use the purple glue stick for ABS at 110c with no issues. Ive only had one print lift off ever. I also dont wipe and reapply every print, I just add more glue to the plate. I can normally get about 4 prints before I have to switch to my other sheet of glass and clean the other. I REALLY dont want to use ABS juice because of the chemicals and the smell. No different than women usingby MrBaz - Reprappers
Anyone know of a readily available galvo setup and controller that could be used for rastering/drawing with a laser? Basic CNC with a laser head is extremely inefficient for SLS, whereas a laser marking head is light years faster. A lot of the commercial units are unbelievably expensive and require their own proprietary (but yet quite awesome) controllers. Dangit. Wrong forum. Can a mod movby MrBaz - Powder Printing and Selective Laser Sintering
Clean mirror with Dawn dish soap and hot water. Rinse/rub with cleaning vinegar (or plain white vinegar). Rinse thoroughly with water. The water should not bead up anywhere. It should look like it is 'sticking' to the glass. Dry off with a plain paper towel (facial tissues, toilet tissue, etc usually have additives in them that leave a greasy or oily residue). Nail polish remover isn't theby MrBaz - General
Try flipping the ribbon cable 180*?by MrBaz - Reprappers
If you are out to do something as exotic as what you are implying, the cost of PVA should be nothing compared to these of use. PVA is exactly what you are looking for. It is easily dissolved in hot water, which will not damage your mold. Once you have a mold, make another plug, another mold, etc. One time fee of the PVA is irrelevant.by MrBaz - General
Clean with hot water and dish soap. Then gently rub over it some cleaning vinegar and rinse thoroughly. When drying, try not to touch it with your bare fingers.by MrBaz - Reprappers
ABS Juice on ~5mm glass mirror. Mirror gets a fresh coat of ABS juice for every print (unless there was just enough ABS juice left where a quick wipe of the juice would freshen it up just nicely).by MrBaz - General
This isn't a huge print by any means, so take it for what it is worth. I waited for the mirror to cool down completely. I then shimmied a razor blade under a corner and the entire thing popped right off with pretty much no effort. Oh, and I found this 124mm square mirror at some discount Garden Ridge store for only $2. They had a very large assortment of shapes and sizes. I'll be going backby MrBaz - Reprappers
Better picture. Printing parts to a better filament spool holder. Absolutely NO warping. This is AMAZING!by MrBaz - Reprappers
Stop smacking your prints off the plate. Get a proper scraper that can hold a razer blade. Have patience and wait for the print too cool down. Then gently and slowly take the print off.by MrBaz - Reprappers
Glass (or mirror in my case) and ABS juice: Got tired of CONSTANTLY having to replace the tape after every print. Plastic would stick so well to the tape that warping would pull the TAPE off of the bed. Got me a nice and thick mirror for like $2. If all goes well the next week, I'll be picking up more of these so I can just have a few on hand to toss in there after a print has completed to conby MrBaz - Reprappers
I got rid of the stupid acrylic ABP and replaced them with crappy ABS versions designed to hold a mirror! It is actually printing replacement print bed holders since the ones that are installed are gen1 and measurements are a bit off.by MrBaz - Reprappers
QuoteJimFouch I'm also bringing a TOM back from a long period of inactivity. I bought one used in late 2011 and got frustrated with it after several filament jams and bad prints. Do yourself a favor and upgrade your extruder with this... There are other ones you can printout yourself if you want to save a few bucks. Since upgrading to this I have had very few extruder problems. The only time Iby MrBaz - Reprappers
It ended up being the config file. I don't know how it got corrupted, but everything is back to normal.by MrBaz - Reprappers
I've compared the config file to an original, unmolested one. I can't seem to find anything that would have changed. I don't think it is the slicer, because even changing speed settings in raw gcode act weird. Setting the speed slower than like 100mm/s will actually slow the speed down, but setting the speed above 100mm/s doesn't change anything. I'll try blowing away the original config fileby MrBaz - Reprappers
Been using RepG40r22 with the latest accelerated firmware on a Thing-o-Matic. It has been working fine. I decided to use Makerware today (latest version) just for fun. I printed a few things, but was not impressed with the lack of features of Makerware. Switched back over to RepG (after stopping the makerbot conveyor service). Now, the X and Y axes move at a snails pace when under gcode. Coby MrBaz - Reprappers
I found out what it was. I had deprime in the firmware enabled, and at the same time I had skeinforge calculating retraction for slicing. You apparently aren't supposed to use both at the same time. I disabled deprime in firmware and played with the retraction settings. I also switched to running the loops before the perimeter. Hopefully, this will hide the zipper a little better. Thin wallby MrBaz - Reprappers
Used a gcode viewer and could just barely see the tiny gaps between the lines in a plane thin-walled 20mm cylinder. This was were that layer/line began and ended. Is it possible there is a skeinforge setting that is allowing the printer to jump to the next layer too early causing a gap? Maybe a retraction setting?by MrBaz - Reprappers
I'm using Skeinforge 50 via ReplicatorG 40r22 Sailfish (ToM has been flashed with the REAL Jetty Sailfish firmware) A plain cylinder shows this flaw. "Cylinders" within a print (surrounded by infill -- screw hole for instance) do not have this problem.by MrBaz - Reprappers
You all are right. I'm an idiot. I didn't explain that very well. Here is a picture of the problem:by MrBaz - Reprappers
I tried search, but I must not be very proficient with it as it returned no results. When printing a cylinder (even with 3-4 shells) I'm getting a gap running straight up the wall. What am I missing here?by MrBaz - Reprappers
If you are just wanting to pickup something to play with, then why not get something much simpler and cheaper? You can pickup a Printrbot for dirt cheap. I believe they have an optional LCD kit too. It may not be very big, but if you are just wanting to tinker, then this is a good option.by MrBaz - Reprappers
I say stay away from the dedicated 12V power supplies. Get a good quality computer ATX power supply. Switched/regulated/protected 12V power with plenty of current, short-circuit protection, and a 5V rail to boot; YAY!!by MrBaz - Reprappers
First non-calibration print: Looks good!by MrBaz - Reprappers
As an update, funny enough, the calibration prints are just fine and look MUCH better!by MrBaz - Reprappers
Had a filament jam, so I took that opportunity to do some work on the extruder that I had been thinking about. The stock arrangement of the delrin plunger on the hobbed pulley sounded dump to begin with. The stock setup has the hobbed pulley arranged such that it is so close to the motor, the set screw is not engaging in the flat area of the motor shaft. I flipped it around and aligned it up sby MrBaz - Reprappers
I'm using the latest Sailfish firmware from Jetty, not Makerbot. I find out how to adjust the stepspermm just fine. I've been doing a lot of fine tuning lately. Now if anyone knows where I can find a Makerbot Gen4 LCD interface kit, that would be awesome.by MrBaz - Reprappers