any filter and chamber to keep fumes out of the air is a small price to pay for cancer.by Wildcard - General
You know I was hoping that you might be contrite, but it looks like ad hominem attacks are your new tactic. Truthfully, I do not care what you think of me (i.e. you calling me and other people "drama"). If you want accuse people of their intentions of not reading, then I will happily respond about my own. The fact that only one person could understand what you were talking about on simple problemby Wildcard - General
I have to say that I don't agree with your statement that "people did not read..." because just putting a text diagram of what the machine is doing with one tower in the picture is not enough information for everyone to pinpoint that you are seeing a bowling effect, which is natural in the configuration of a delta. I asked whether you could include a simple video so people can accurately see whatby Wildcard - General
I had similar results when I was printing too fast on the infill. I was up at 70mm/s on the infill speed.by Wildcard - Printing
1. What is the best bang for my buck I would like to stay at the $300 to $500 range? Smartrap, Prusa i3, Griffin Delta printer... 2. Am I better off buying a solidoodle as my first printer?(Would really like to build mine so I understand it all) I was in your boat about 3 months ago, looking at kits and almost pulling the trigger on prebuilt printers and kits until I found the reprap communitby Wildcard - General
You guys might want to update the AppStore with a message alluding to this, so that other people who have macs running .56 don't get confused.by Wildcard - Repetier
does the effector angle up when raising, or does it remain flat? IF it angles up it could be that the diagonal rods are off. Also cross post on the delta google group for additional assistance:by Wildcard - General
The printer that I just built is now the tip of the spear to my business. I build carbon fiber race parts for racing car applications. I used to build everything by hand with air tools, now everything is going to be designed either in CAD or 3d scanned and altered in CAD, and then split up into chinks and printed on my 3d printer. Once I have the 3d printed part, if correct on design, I will switby Wildcard - General
Oh forgot, a little bit messy (I.e. Dusty): cutoff saw.by Wildcard - General
I can only speak from my experience with my delta. I have a bowden airtripper extruder, with an all metal hot end, a .4mm nozzle, and I print only in PLA. I print great. With all metal hot ends, it is just keeping them cool with fans (I use dual 40mm fans) and using cooking oil when using PLA, as well as increasing the temperature at the hotend if the filament is not melting fast enough. For theby Wildcard - Reprappers
Charcoal filter can be made with just fishtank charcoal (activated charcoal) that is placed in a can or a box with foam on one side and a fan on the other. The fan(s) pump or pull air through the charcoal. I made mine out of wood with foam on both sides and two corsair dual fans that pull air through it. There are also downloadable versions on thingiverse. This reprap has a nice filter stl fileby Wildcard - General
You can replace the blade on the woodworking bandsaw. I have two: a vertical bandsaw and a woodworking bandsaw that has been converted to cut aluminum with a 1/2" wide 56 tooth blade.by Wildcard - General
I just bought repetier informer on the App Store, however I am having trouble setting it up on my mac .56. I'm trying to follow the directions of going to config-->preferences.... But I cannot find the config on my version of repetier .56 that allows me to click on a preferences link and select "push-messages."by Wildcard - Repetier
Just upload the marlin.ino (not .pde) onto the board and download and run repetier host from . Configuring repetier is pretty straight forward. There are tutorials on the repetier website to get the printer settings correct. Also don't get frustrated. When I first built my rostock I went from not be able to move it, to being able to print it 2 weeks later. Once I made one break through, thingsby Wildcard - Delta Machines
can you post a vid so that we can see what is doing and assist?by Wildcard - General
charcoal filter with fans on it to actively scrub the air. I use one on my printer, in its heated build chamber. I can't smell a thing when it is printing.by Wildcard - General
bandsaw with a metal blade, grinder, jigsaw, etc.by Wildcard - General
I don't use pronterface/printrun, I use Repetier Host, so I am unsure. Hopefully someone who is more familiar with that host can chime in.by Wildcard - Delta Machines
do a test. Lower the Z axis -100 before you try to start jogging the X axis. Also only hit the X right now -10, instead of the -100. I am telling you tho try this because in an X movement to the -X like X-20, the X tower carriage will go up and the Y tower carriage will go down. However, this will be prevented if you are already at the X tower endstop. So lower the carriage to Z-100 and try tby Wildcard - Delta Machines
Post a video, so we can see and advise.by Wildcard - Delta Machines
1mm is always too high. You want it about .1mm or .2mm above the surface. Use the paper test: get a piece a paper and lower the nozzle until it touches on it, and gives an adequate amount of tug when you are pulling not he paper.by Wildcard - Reprappers
Tuning trimpots Get yourself a multimeter and follow the directions above to tune the trimpots.by Wildcard - Delta Machines
Your smooth rod offset seems wrong. You have 128 when a normal Rostock should be around 175mm. DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD 250 mm center-to-center distance of the holes in the diagonal push rods. DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET 175 mm horizontal offset from middle of printer to smooth rod center. If your print head is too high or low in the middle of the print surface, adjust DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET by half mmby Wildcard - Delta Machines
Smartrap. Around 200. The only downside is that it is very similar to your printrbot. $200 to build. Folgertech has good prices for parts.by Wildcard - Reprappers
Quotehercek The best approach is to use right threaded screw on one side of a rod and left threaded screw on the other. Glue the screws to the rod. Then screw the ball joints at the screws. This allows you to adjust the rod length precisely. Otherwise (if you would use the same threads on both sides of a rod) you can set the rod length with the precision of pitch/2 only (that means 0.25 mm for M3by Wildcard - Delta Machines
^this is what I use. I use Repetier, so I'm relatively unaware of pronterface setup so I'll have to leave that for someone else. I did find this: That may help you fix the issue of the print starting off center. Since you have a delta, check that your printer has it x max/min and y max/min setup correctly I'm the printer host (pronterface). If your bed is 140mm then it should be -70 min aby Wildcard - Reprappers
Okay, I will try to answer your question by explaining the printer limits and firmware parameters that you mentioned above. I have a rostock delta printer, and although it is a delta my bed is still a square. Even if it was a circle, I would still think of my bed in the form of a square. My bed is 200mm wide. However, I have four bolts that I do not want the nozzle to hit, so my printable diameteby Wildcard - Reprappers
Glad I could help! Good, you already have a jig. Magnets also work and are great for holding the metal traxxas ends to the jig, and they allow for small precision changes. A pack of N35s. The best adhesive for carbon is 24 hour 2 part epoxy. A slow epoxy will come with a working time of 45 minutes, so you have time to adjust and readjust until you know you have the correct dimensions. You may wanby Wildcard - Delta Machines