Show all posts by user
Rostock, Kossel, Simpson, 3DR, and more. See: http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Delta. Previously named "Delta Robots and Stewart Platform"
Re: Online least-squares delta printer calibration calculator - 7 years ago
QuoteDjDemonD Hi David, any chance of the least squares online calculator being updated to do 8 and 9 factor calibration, and to auto generate more than 7 points? It does allow 10 points. I couldn't find anything in Repetier to do with tower tilt either.by number40fan - Delta Machines
Re: carriage wheels for 1515 extrusions? - 7 years ago
I agree with wanting more control, but with such a tiny printer only being able to produce small parts, 100% fan is probably the only way you could go. So, use a large enough fan to get the part cooled quickly, but have enough flow left over to keep the hot end cooled down. And being able to only print small parts, heat creep over a long period won't shouldn't be an issue.by number40fan - Reprappers
Re: Kossel xxxl - 7 years ago
Go with fire rated drywall. I'd maybe even look into a self releasing fire extinguisher.by number40fan - Delta Machines
Re: Dual extruder - one filament - 7 years ago
Why not just do a cold pull to get the filament out of the side you won't be using?by number40fan - Printing
Re: Replacement heated bed - 7 years ago
Don't forget about insulation under the heat bed.by number40fan - Reprappers
Re: carriage wheels for 1515 extrusions? - 7 years ago
How about a hotend/part cooling fan combo?by number40fan - Reprappers
Re: PLA print quality temperature tower / fan speed / fan duct - 7 years ago
Looks like you have a lot of over extrusion.by number40fan - Printing
Re: Underextruded layers - 7 years ago
If anything, you'd be getting over extrusion.by number40fan - Reprappers
Re: Creating Prusa design using aluminium frame. issues and questions - 7 years ago
You need a slicer program to convert the .stl to .gcode. You can then run the .gcode without filament to make sure everything works.by number40fan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: RepRap Guru i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) - 7 years ago
Try cranking up the heat some.by number40fan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Need help... had a mishap! - 7 years ago
Warm up the hot end. Should loosen it up and make it easier to remove.by number40fan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Some Edges of ABS Print Not Sticking - 7 years ago
I know it is contradictive, but try turning on the cooling fan at the 3rd layer. Improved my ABS benchy a TON!by number40fan - Printing
Re: Endstop Error: Z-Tower incorrectly moves after home. - 7 years ago
I would have to say it is in the firmware.by number40fan - Delta Machines
Re: Woes of ABS and part warping - 7 years ago
Yep, that is what I meant. Changing the offsets so they aren't pulling on the effected areas as much.by number40fan - Reprappers
Re: Woes of ABS and part warping - 7 years ago
I just looked at your list of tried "fixes", but one that I didn't see was either changing the orientation of the part on the build plate or changing your layer directions. Have you tried any of those?by number40fan - Reprappers
Re: Help Frimware Delta mini - 7 years ago
I know it has been a bit, but if you haven't figured it out yet, and this being the problem I had, the fix is in the slicer. I had really slow Z movement after a print was started because of a low Z movement speed in the slicer. Having a large delta and watching it take what seemed like forever to reach the bed and finally start printing, was annoying.by number40fan - Delta Machines
Re: Woes of ABS and part warping - 7 years ago
Do you live in the states? I have some injection molded corners from an HE3D delta that I don't need any more. There are 9 pieces in total.by number40fan - Reprappers
Re: Woes of ABS and part warping - 7 years ago
Sometimes it is the filament that causes the issue. I have a roll of black ABS from Hatchbox that warps like heck on a long run, but the same part with other ABS filaments, does fine. Try lowering your layer height too. .2427 (yep, weird number, but proven to work with Deltas) and try again. I have an enclosed printer that I use exclusively for ABS and run the bed at 110° and hotend at 220°.by number40fan - Reprappers
Re: Heatbed for a Kossel XL - 7 years ago
I don't have personal experience, but it looks like it already had the thermistor already installed, the NTC which should be 100k. If you already own it, measure the resistance. Not sure why anyone would suggest running it upside down, but I would insulate the bottom of it.by number40fan - Delta Machines
Re: Where to put the extruder on a delta? - 7 years ago
I was able to chop 20cm from my Bowden by going low. I have still yet to print anything to take up the full build of my delta, but moving the effector around didn't pose any kinking issues with the tube. 565mm tip to glass after homed.by number40fan - Delta Machines
Re: looking for stubby ball stud - 7 years ago
What are the thread size of Haydn's balls?by number40fan - Delta Machines
Re: Belt & Pully design - build question - 7 years ago
Crappy paint picture, but hope you get the idea.by number40fan - Delta Machines
Re: Belt & Pully design - build question - 7 years ago
I meant the smooth rod setup. Should have been more clear on that. If you were looking down at the motors, rotating them 90° either clockwise or counter would put the flat of the belt against the carriage and you would be able to have them centered. Having a flat plate on the top of the delta would allow you to put the motors up there and in any position you wanted. Since you are using smooby number40fan - Delta Machines
Re: turning off part cooling fan - 7 years ago
That is just ABS without an enclosure. I run my fan when printing ABS in my Qidi without any issues. But, it is fully sealed.by number40fan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Belt & Pully design - build question - 7 years ago
Even with setups like you have drawn, the motors are centered with the vertical extrusions. If you really wanted to get it as even as you could, flip the motors 90°.by number40fan - Delta Machines
Re: 300mm PVC/acrylic tube as a shell - 7 years ago
Quotekasom Quotelhartmann ... Also found this guy on thingiverse that used PCBs as carts/effector mounting plates. Neat idea, PCBs are rigid and have a low profile, which is useful given the diameter limitation. He did not take full advantage of his concept, though. LED lighting would have been a really nice feature. I got inspired by dc42's smart PCB effector. My version is dumb. If yours isby number40fan - Delta Machines
Re: 300mm PVC/acrylic tube as a shell - 7 years ago
Could always cut out a section between the X and Y towers for a flat or even curved piece of acrylic sheet. Going to need a door to pull the parts out of and to get to the effector for filament changes anyways.by number40fan - Delta Machines
Re: Support for prints using Rep Host and Slic3r - 7 years ago
Is there a setting to change at what angle supports will be generated?by number40fan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My first 3D Printer build - RepRap Prusa i3 Rework - 7 years ago
Paper is what I use. You just have to get the feel for it. What I circled in the pictures is where the start and stop of the lines being laid down are. Have you calibrated the extruder?by number40fan - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Suggested carriages and effector for Haydn magnetic arms for Kossel Mini? - 7 years ago
Thanks. If you decide to go my route, let it be known I work for cheap. ;-)by number40fan - Delta Machines