If you print a single wall test cube, how does the measures wall width compare to the wall width that Slic3r calculates?by Polygonhell - Printing
I'd go with the thinnest flat AL plate you can, the flat part means you really should buy cast rather than rolled AL even at the increased cost. Rolled stock is never flat. For point of reference one of my printers has a 1/8th inch rolled AL heated bed, it wasn't until I put the glass on it I realized how not flat it was, and it's not flat enough that in places it doesn't contact the glass well.by Polygonhell - General
FWIW skeinforge is worth the several hours it will take you to get a working setup, once it's set up, it's no more complicated than Slic3r to use and I've never seen it produce a worse results, though it is a lot slower. I like Slic3r, I'll always use it first, I think that simple configuration is moving in the right direction. KissSlicer is also worth a look, it's not open source, but it is frby Polygonhell - Slic3r
STL files don't support curves, only line segments. Have you looked at the actual STL file to confirm it has more than the 2 segments in it? Usually the software that exports STL files lets you specify an error which it uses to change the curves into lines. What does Skeinforge do? Assuming the STL file isn't the issue, I haven't looked at the guts of Slic3r, but it may do a relaxation step toby Polygonhell - Slic3r
AFAIK The B in Mk-4B just designates the heating element as Brass instead of ALby Polygonhell - Reprappers
The only reliable way to verify temperature is with a thermocouple on a meter. Having said that my experience is the thermistors are usually accurate with the correct firmware setting. 20 degrees is a lot of swing, I use PID to drive mine and variation is < 1 degree. Marlin has an option to try and auto tune the PID settings M303, I don't think sprinter has an equivalent. If your hot end is hby Polygonhell - Reprappers
I've never had good luck with PLA directly on glass, my experience is that large prints detatch and warp. PLA on Kapton at 60 degrees seems to be much better. Other than the fact I hate applying Kapton. You can also use Blue painters tape on the heated bed IME it sticks so well you have to reapply it before every print.by Polygonhell - General
If you don't have a heated. bed invest in one. I spent months fighting to get first layers to stick, with a heated bed and either Kapton, or blue painters tape for PLA, I rarely have any difficulty. I use a piece of printer paper to set Z 0 and just print with the layer height the same for the first layer.by Polygonhell - General
Alu foil and high temperature silicone, the stuff they use on car exhaust headers.by Polygonhell - General
I think you're base layer is just way too low. It looks like the extra filament is rolling up.by Polygonhell - General
You can use rear-right or front-left as 0,0 as long as the directions are set correctly it doesn't matter.by Polygonhell - General
You probably have the pots on the drivers set too high, they can be really picky about the setting. If it's moving without input or ticking without input then turn them down until it stops. More current is not always better.by Polygonhell - Reprappers
I'd think you'd want to retract wipe, then later prime and wipe when printing changes extruders. It'd be a lot easier if the extruder had a valve. Still be nice to be able to lift the nozzle not in use slightly though.by Polygonhell - General
Where are you located? In the US 1.75mm is very common, Ultimachine has a pretty good rep, and a fairly wide selection. repraper.com, has a vast selection of 1.75mm at low prices (though shipping evens out the price difference somewhat), I'm undecided on the quality, the pink PLA I tried is a little picky about temperature and tends to blob, I have several other rolls from them here have yet toby Polygonhell - General
KisSlicer has a setting for it, and though I've never seen it run, what it appears to do is draw a cylinder next to the model retract and wipe the nozzle on the cylinder on color/material changes. I agree though, unless you have a very high pressure nozzle, it's still going to leak on things, plus your dragging a second hotend over the part while printing.by Polygonhell - General
I'm in two minds about a slicer changing dimensions to account for shrinkage, in principle it sounds like a good idea, but it seems to me there are two many variables for it to account for and it really ought to be done before the slicer, during modeling where you actually know what tolerances you require.by Polygonhell - Slic3r
I agree, you can mill almost anything on any machine with enough RPM and small enough DOC. Having said that, I think it's important to understand what you want to mill, how much material you expect to remove, and how patient you are. With a 40lb CNC'd Sherline cutting AL you're reduced to DOC's in the 0.015 range and speeds ~10ipm, that makes any significant material removal a SLOOOOWWWW processby Polygonhell - Controllers
No backlash compensation in slic3r. If you're using belts for X and Y, you should be able to get Backlash low enough it doesn't matter.by Polygonhell - General
Can you print something like a tall test cube? or maybe the grotux from thingiverse. I think you have some Z-Wobble, which is causing layer misalignment. It also looks like you're printing too hot to me, but there could be a lot of things going on with that print.by Polygonhell - General
Most reprap's provide less that ideal Voltage to the Nema17 motors they use, but most aren't running them anywhere near their torque or speed limits. While you can likely drive Nema23's with pololu drivers, I'd guess you'd end up limiting their torque significantly. It is not unusual in the CNC world to mix Nema 23 and Nema 34 motors, ideal voltage is primarily a function of motor inductance, aby Polygonhell - Controllers
What the ultimaker design and several other newer designs do is make the X and Y steppers stationary, this makes a moving Z axis make a lot more sense. Even more when coupled with a Bowden style extruder. I think a lot of the newer designs are likely to go the same way. You're always going to see variations on existing designs, triangular frames don't lend themselves to moving Z and if your frameby Polygonhell - General
amaurer Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I did just notice an interesting symptom... when > the indicated temperature jumps by 6C whenever the > hotend resistor turns off...??? I'd be checking for shorts if I saw that.by Polygonhell - General
If by this weeks you mean the voronoi tower, it has a LOT of very short moves and you're likely constrained by the acceleration setting in your firmware. Assuming your running firmware with acceleration. The other thing that might affect it in Slic3r is the cooling settings, if you have the minimum layer time set to high, it'll just slow everything down. EDIT I see you probably mean the lightbuby Polygonhell - General
I would be interested in seeing pictures of the prints. I've only run a couple of models through 8.2, but didn't have issues. I'm still using 7.2 mostly because repetier host hasn't been updated yet and it's convenient.by Polygonhell - Slic3r
By default marlin will not let you extrude unless the Hotend is above some minimum temperature. You can disable the feature in the confit file.by Polygonhell - General
You might want to post images of the issues your having, the don't join up part sounds like an extruder calibration issue, but i could be misunderstanding what you're saying.by Polygonhell - General
If it's a PC ATX PSU and you dona't have a load on the 5V line, then they often will not hold 12V, and some just simply shutdown under any significant current draw.by Polygonhell - General
The bed needs to be of the order of 110 degrees (actually on the bed not at the thermister) hotend at ~230 you may need to go hotter and run the first layer VERY slowly Once you get it to stick once you can play with the variables and see what works.by Polygonhell - General
It's a function of surface, bed temperature, nozzle temperature, distance to bed, and print speed. Some of it is not intuitive, for a given temperature the distance to the bed can be too small, and it just curls off as it's deposited. Are you printing PLA or ABS, onto what surface etc?by Polygonhell - General