Would someone please run an M501 command and paste their results for the M92 output? While meaning to set my Z0 via a G92 command, I mistakenly typed an M92 Z0 command and committed it to EEPROM. My Z axis now moves exactly 0 steps as a result. :/ Edit: I have a complete dibond kit, so I would prefer the output from a similar kit. Thanks in advance, Fl0ydby Fl0yd - Mendel90
Does anyone with a Mendel90, preferably a kit from Nophead, use Simplify3D? I watched a youtube review of it last night and I really like the custom support feature, and the ability to do different settings on different parts on the same plate. * Dimensional accuracy: Nophead has shown that nearly all slicers, other than Skeinforge, don't create dimensionally accurate holes or nut traps. Do youby Fl0yd - Mendel90
You can use the "Machine" option within Cura to define a new Machine for the Mendel90 with thin glass and thick glass. Then create custom start G-code for each that accounts for the glass thickness. This way by simply selecting the "Machine" you can slice and print with the least amount of effort. Fl0ydby Fl0yd - Mendel90
Sublime, I've always found your posts regarding Kisslicer settings to be very informative and helpful. In Jonathan's absence, have you moved onto a different slicer? If so, which one(s)? I've been dragging my feet, but I think it's time to move on. Fl0ydby Fl0yd - Experimental
Hi, Currently I'm quite happy with the kit's default J-head, but E3D is having a 20% sale for the holidays and has me tempted to try something new. I'm curious to hear and hopefully even see people's experiences, both good and bad, with the hot end: - I don't like the idea of losing the fan shroud for PLA printing so I'd like to hear how you handled that - I'd like to know if you had any PLA jby Fl0yd - Mendel90
Watch the top of the threaded rod and see if it is hitting the bar clamp. That may be the clicking sound. Fl0ydby Fl0yd - Mendel90
Thank you all for the suggestions. I only had black PLA and ABS on hand, so based on nophead's descriptions I've ordered a spool of natural ABS. I will see how the tone is after the print, then likely use craft or spray paint to change it if needed. Fl0ydby Fl0yd - General
My use is much less exciting than that, I'm just trying to print a fake hand for Halloween. Fl0ydby Fl0yd - General
What color of filament is closest to that of caucasian skin? Perhaps natural PLA or ABS? Fl0ydby Fl0yd - General
Attached is a picture of my setup: - At the top is a USB hub. I Would have like to have avoided using it, but I have 3 USB devices (wifi, a web cam, and the printer itself). - Next from the top is the Raspberry Pi - Then an Azteeg X3 controller for the printer - And at the bottom the PSU. All components pictured are running from the PSU itself. Both the Raspberry Pi and the USB hub use the 5Vby Fl0yd - Mendel90
It has even gotten easier than that, scroll to the bottom of their web page. There is a downloadable flash for the SD card that has, Linux, octoprint, and the webcam streamer already setup and ready to go. I'll upload some pics of my setup tomorrow. Fl0ydby Fl0yd - Mendel90
I too use OctoPrint via Raspberry Pi. The recent releases allow you to upload code over wifi to your SD card via the Raspberry Pi's USB connection to the arduino. It is slow, but if you are concerned about USB communication issues, you can avoid them if you are willing to wait for the USB transfer. Fl0ydby Fl0yd - Mendel90
I don't level my bed unless I've shifted the printer's location, accidentally bumped the Z axis up and had the trapped nuts pop out and change their orientation, or jarred the build platform very badly. In all cases, the need to re-level was a direct result of my actions, not the printer drifting out of alignment on its own. I love creative solutions and all things that simplify leveling, butby Fl0yd - Mendel90
How much does it actually move? If it moves 50 mm or 200 mm, when you tell it to move 100 mm, you may have the steppers configured for 1/8 or 1/32 stepping. If it moves something that isn't clearly a multiple of 2, then you may be skipping steps due to reference voltages on your stepper drivers. Fl0ydby Fl0yd - Delta Machines
Have a look at Octoprint. I use it to wirelessly control mine and keep an eye on it via webcam. Even though it takes longer, I recommend uploading the files to the SD card and printing from SD since it makes better quality prints. 3D printers shouldn't be in a hurry, it requires patience.by Fl0yd - Mendel90
Here's a link to Rich's blog: Link Fl0ydby Fl0yd - General
For clarification's sake, is it PLA or ABS. If it is ABS you can soak it in an acetone bath to dissolve the ABS. If it is PLA, you'll have to wait for suggestions from others in the forum. Fl0ydby Fl0yd - Mendel90
Have you found a way to set the latest version of Cura for "relative E"? I'd love to give it a try via Octoprint or stand-alone, but I need it to output "relative E" gcode. Fl0ydby Fl0yd - Developers
I can only guess that this isn't getting much attention because it is buried in the RAMPS forum. But I wanted to let you know I think your design is great and executed very well. Is your Azteeg's 5th stepper driver controlling the additional X stepper or the additional E stepper? Fl0ydby Fl0yd - RAMPS Electronics
What if the water and dry mix weren't mixed inside the nozzle? Could you have a spray of water on the side of the nozzle to avoid clogging? Fl0ydby Fl0yd - General
The picture shows that you are missing steps in both X and Y. Do all of your prints behave that way? Are you sure that your: - belts are have the right tension? low bassy sound when plucked - set screws are tight on your pulleys, and on the flats of the steppers - stepper voltages aren't set too high? Did you tune them with the pots on the stepper drivers? Fl0ydby Fl0yd - Mendel90
It's the Atmel ATMEGA2560 board. One of the listed features is: Atmel ATmega 2560 with FT231x FTDI USB chip Here is the link to the full list of specs. I love the convenience of printing over USB, but the inconsistency is too much for my taste. It seems like some of the more recent version of Octoprint are also increasing my USB communication issues. Though my experience may not be the sameby Fl0yd - Mendel90
I'm using the Azteeg X3 (RAMPS) in place of the Meltzi and it has USB timeout issues as well. I use Octoprint via a RaspberryPi powered from the same power supply as the board so I know the ground loop is as "tight" as possible and there are still communication and timeout issues. The only way that I feel certain the print will work without interruption is via the SD card. Fl0ydby Fl0yd - Mendel90
Richrap's blog has quite a bit about multicolor with one extruder or by dying the filament. He also has an entry on thingiverse that describes a filament joiner. It appears that it would be random though when the colors would change. Fl0ydby Fl0yd - Mendel90
1) What type of machine? 2) What slicer and version? 3) What are your speed settings in the slicer? Fl0ydby Fl0yd - General
What does issuing command "M119" return for the end stop values? Fl0ydby Fl0yd - Reprappers
Try swapping the X and Y end stop wiring at the board to see if the issue moves with the end stop. Fl0ydby Fl0yd - Reprappers
I use the X3 with the Helios bed combination on my Mendel90. It has been working great and I think it is a great choice and offers a lot of expansion capabilities. My only complaint was that it took a while to ship, but Roy had just finished a Kickstarter campaign that launched the "Viki" product, so he was very busy with that. Fl0ydby Fl0yd - General
If it sounds like it is struggling, the end stop being triggered is probably not working as expected. In pronterface: 1) Click the "Motors Off" button 2) Move the heat bed away from the Y end stop and issue an M119 command. 3) While holding the end stop button with your finger, issue another M119 command. Are the responses in the pronterface window the same? When the button isn't pressed, youby Fl0yd - Mendel90