I have an aluminium framed i3 and it was crazy loud before I added some printed springy foot to it. I have just built a 2020 framed corexy and it is just crazy silent. Extruder's fan is the only thing that really makes any noise. And my printer sits directly on a metal cabinet so I would expect vibration to be resonated through it if there was any. I think it so silent simply because of the TMby Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
QuoteLarsK First - Holding torque is not the problem - The problem is moving the bed up without skipping steps (pre-print). If you have a "normal" setup then you have a Z-max probe. So the printer sends the bed to this and then move up your specified Z-height. If it skips steps when moving up then it will stop in the wrong height and your print will not touch the bed... Next, when we talk abouby Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
QuoteLarsK Your math is OK but it doesn't work like that. To get consistent print with 0.2mm step you need to have a higher resolution then just 0.2. I don't remember the multiplier (but 16 or 32 microstepping will be fine) . On the proposed design you will most likely have problems driving the motor if you don't get at least the DRV8825 (1.5A instead of 1A). The DRV8825 will also give you moreby Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
So I was researching on the motor stepping/microstepping and it seems that I could base my design on this one If I use GT2 20T pulley and a 200 steps per revolution stepper. I would come up with a Z axis resolution of 0.2mm per one full step which is what I use most of the time (anyone care to check if my step/resolution math is right?). Later I could get a 400 steps per revolution stepper if Iby Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
QuotefilipeCampos You already have build an z axis, but is not working great... I think before trying to rebuild the Z axis from scratch you can try to fix it first. You are using 4 rods and 2 threaded rods, in theory it should be an very solid solution. Why is not working great? Can you tell in more details the problems you having? I chose this printer design just because of the z-axis designby Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist QuoteEdvardas I am still unsure if leadscrews are the best solutions. It seems that many are fighting Z banding and I do not want to spend 100 euros on the leadscrews that are not going to give an optimal performance. Using belts to directly drive Z axis seems like a best performing solutions but I am lost in step size/microspetting/holding torque and so on. 0.2mm layer hby Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
QuotefilipeCampos The bed size make a very big impact in the solution to use and this is something your are not considering. My corexy was an little bed of 20cm x 20cm. I´m using a very simple solution of one 8mm leadscrew and two 12mm rods with two 12mm bearings for each rod. For you is a big NO NO and i do not agree. I have this solution implemented and it simply work. The bed is always very pby Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist I think three leadscrews driven by a belt is a good idea, but I could probably live with two on opposite ends of the bed, not cantilevered. There are no forces working to tip the bed when supported by two screws, so it should be OK. Three provides even better stability. Four is going to cause problems. Don't use threaded rods for linear motion unless you're making someby Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
So my printer is built and corexy (x and y axis) works wonderfully. Wish I could say the same about the Z-axis (I use 4 smooth rods and two 8mm threaded rods connected to two motors via flexible couplers). It seems that many corexy printers lack good Z-axis (for example many use cantilevered beds). So what would be the best configuration? *Two leadscrews connected to a single motor by a belt? *Drby Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
Quotebunbun Main problem of moving bed instead of moving extruder is space efficiency. When you design a printer with moving bed, you need at least 4X bed surface area for bed movement. Let say you designing a printer with print size 100X100X100 by moving bed. Then your printer size will be at least 250X250X250 (bed movement plus bearing, motor, etc.). In same case, if you design it in moving exby Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
Looks like it should not be a problem.by Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
I am going to enclose the printer for the sake of smell free printing. But I am not going to use a heated bed so I am a little unsure if heat is really an isue (although motors can get hot and I am planning to use 3 nozzles) especially considering that the volume of the enclosed printer is going to be at around 44cm x 44 cm x 100 cm (thats a lot of volume to warm up without a heatbed).by Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
I am building a corexy printer that contains 2020 aluminium extrusion frame. Now that all the mechanical stuff is finished I have to start wiring electronics. It seems that almost everyone puts Arduino/Ramps board and a LCD at the bottom of the printer under the printbed. I was trying to fallow this approach but it is giving me an headache as the wires are on the short side and it seems that doinby Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
Quotedeaconfrost if you going for the i3, build the mega i3 instead, it about the same money as buying the i3 kit thats half the size, I bought the mega i3 printed kit on ebay and bought the rest of the material in local hardware store, have the printer almost finished its costing me 150 so far without the hotend and electronics yet, im transferring everything from my small i3 to it so it is onlyby Edvardas - General
Quotezerodameaon QuoteMechaBits Who needs drugs with all the fumes. Well, PETG is a lot lower on the fumes, so my wallet has gotten a lot lighter both with the added cost as well as the drugs I now have to buy. /S Oh really? I was happily printing ABS and would get sore throat only after spending 12 hours in a same room as a printer. PETG made me to get an enclosure for a printer as after 2 toby Edvardas - General
Definitely yes under the right circumstances. Like if a worldwide nuclear war would start. Makers would be scavenging for plastic waste that would get to be made into a filament and things like gun parts would be made out of them. Enjoy my imaginationby Edvardas - General
Motedis.com has them: both guided and unguided (guided ones work great with printed parts as it helps to center them on an extrusion. unguided ones work with corner brocket as bracket itself has guides that would otherwise interfere with guides on guided t-nut). Motedis shipped in a week last time I ordered (i also ordered profiles so stock parts like nuts might ship quicker). EDIT: sorry. I dby Edvardas - General
That is true but as I have said you get a a kit of good quality parts. On the other hand you can go a cheaper route and get printer with chinese nozzle and upgrade later.by Edvardas - General
I built prusa a few years ago because at the time it was a good design. It took a few days to build. The design has many weaknesses and is just overly complicated with too many fasteners and zip ties. I3 is a thing of the past. Now I am building a corexy and am amazed at how fast it goes together and aluminium extrusions should make it very stiff. I would suggest you to look at smartrapcore aluby Edvardas - General
Cristian, Have you considered a material to make a bed platform of? I tried to google hoping to find plenty of information on people using all kind of different materials on cartesian printers to lighten Y axis but came with nothing. Aluminium-foam sandwich (dibond) came to my mind as it is light and stiff.by Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
Quotegmh39 Why not use a Flex3Drive? Supposedly it is the best of both worlds; lightweight of a bowden, but performance of a direct drive. There are masses of posts recommending flexi drive but I have not seen a single build incorporating it. So as you say "supposedly".. What about practically? I would expect some unexpected problems with it.by Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
QuoteAlexY Repeatability should be fine if your belts are properly tensioned and the printer isn't unreasonably large. Even at low speeds, the low weight of the CoreXY print head reduces the presence of ringing patterns in prints. BTW, I run a bowden e3d lite6 on my printer, and I've gotten it to have virtually no stringing by changing retraction settings. I am actually putting e3d lite6 nozzleby Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
I have been printing happily with my prusa i3 for years and a few weeks ago decided to build a new printer. Quickly I decided to go with corexy as designs were stiff (inside a cube of 2020 profiles) and build costs were reported to be reasonable. I am now mid- way finishing it. However I am having some second thoughts wherever corexy is a right type printer for me. Here is what I want from the prby Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
I must say that we both have a pretty similar mindset on what we want to make. I am also eyeballing linear rails. I think it would be smart to use linear rail for an X-axis as it is a moving one and should be kept as stiff and light as possible. Are you from Europe? This is a cheap system although there are no specifications on preload or pretty much anything: For Y and Z (which are fixed to theby Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
Cristian, have you got anywhere with this idea? Design seems similar to 3drag or K8200 printers except that corexy layout allows all the motors be connected to the frame (on mentioned printers Y motor is moving with a bed). I am currently building a normal corexy and am considering swapping it upside down later.by Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
Nylon warps bad enough while printing just a single part Would not try to do multiple of those. I am talking about ABS and PETG. ABS of course is worse. I think I could get them to stick to the printbed without lifting but removing them would require too much cursing, blood and damaged stuff. I can remember photos of printbeds that are full of reprap printer parts. So I guess it is possible. Buby Edvardas - Printing
I have noticed that the more of the identical parts I try to print at the same time the more warping/corner lifting I experience. I can print two of the same parts without any issues but if try to print 4 of these parts the corners start to lift. My theory is that parts simply have too much time to cool down before the next layer starts. I have experienced this with different materials and both uby Edvardas - Printing
Look at www.motedis.comby Edvardas - Extruded Aluminum Frames
You can get the supported linear rods with adjustable bearings. These are presicion rods with an aluminium extrusions attached to them at one third of Hiwin system price. I would use them for Z and Y axis. For X axis I would use something lighter.by Edvardas - CoreXY Machines
I suppose this motor would be perfect for an extruder as it has a maximum torque of 52 N*cm and a current of 1.3A?by Edvardas - General