You can get a 6-pack of 12" x 12" mirror tiles from the Depot for $12 here in Canada, probably cheaper in the U.S.. 3mm thick and not tempered so you can cut it to size.by Ryan_M - General
Just following up in case someone else comes across this thread that had the same idea as me. Conclusion is it was a bad idea. I tried it again with a new piece of glass and had a few bits of glass let go. I'd read that silicon carbide grit leaves micro subsurface fractures and that fits with whats happening here. I doubt a tougher glass like borosilicate would give any better results. Quartz/fusby Ryan_M - Printing
QuotevreihenI wish that I remembered what the recipe was for the last batch of ABS juice that I made, since I need a chisel to get the parts off of the cold glass. I know what you mean. Had issues getting the roll of ABS that came with my kit to stick well. Tried grinding some texture to the glass and worked perfectly. Got some ABS from a different supplier and you can see below how well it heldby Ryan_M - Printing
I'll look into that, though I'd like to have it automated somehow. I'm thinking a time delayed relay (or well a solid state version with a 555 and a FET) so it turns on when the heater starts up for the hot end and continues to run for something like 5 minutes after there is no power to the hot end. I still need to get fan control working for bridging though. I only have one fan on my X carriageby Ryan_M - Controllers
So I'm a newb. I was having issues getting ABS (a free spool that came with my kit) to stick to the glass on the heated bed. I was using ABS juice. It wasn't bad but not great. I roughed up the glass a bit with #320 SiC grit to give the part a little extra grab - I grind telescope optics so the stuff to do this was handy. Worked perfect! Was printing 245°C HE / 115°C HB for first layer then 240°Cby Ryan_M - Printing
I want to get fan control figured out for two reasons. First the fan for the heat sink on the hot end almost never runs, only the odd random time. Second my printer can't bridge worth a damn (using ABS) and I hear having a fan cooling the filament during bridging really helps. I'm using repetier host and an azteeg X1 with marlin FW. The fan is plugged into the fan header on the azteeg. I only seeby Ryan_M - Controllers
Thanks. Figured it would be that easy but thought I'd double check before I made a mess.by Ryan_M - General
I figured this would be an easy search but turns out I was wrong. So is there a proper way to unload then reload filament without causing a jam or some other issue? FWIW I have an i2 and using ABS with what appears to be the typical Greg's Wade extruder.by Ryan_M - General
I've read some info saying real world there is no real difference in term of print quality. I'm curious what others have experienced. I'm gearing up to build a second printer and the 1.8° steppers are a better price. Just wondering if the 0.9° steppers are worth the premium.by Ryan_M - General
Thanks for your response Neil, I'm not sure if I misspoke or not but I was in no way saying anything against the format in which nophead chose to share his design. I'm looking for a way that I can use what he has generously provided with tools that I have access to and am familiar with. Though it sounds like there is a real bias against programs like AutoCAD and the people who use them. I am wilby Ryan_M - Mendel90
I just got my first 3D printer up and running and I'm not crazy about it... I spend more time trying to keep it square and in alignment than anything else. I saw the Mendel90 and love the simplicity, looks much easier to maintain than what I'm using now. Anyway I'd like to be able to get the parts into AutoCAD so I can maybe modify some to work with some hardware I have on hand which requires a Dby Ryan_M - Mendel90
Huh.. running this code and it looks like the z raises to 15mm until thing are up to temp then goes back to 0 when starting to print though I dont recall it going back to zero when trying the other print. But it appears everything is ok i think. Maybe a DFU problem before.by Ryan_M - General
Sorry forgot to add gcode, here it isby Ryan_M - General
Ok I found the setting in the FW for minimum temp for the extruder so I'm good there. Missed the M302 comment above before changing the setting in the FW but I'll look into that as well. Thanks Also I found that the slicer after the slicer (cura) in repetier is adding a G1 Z15 after the G28 homing command right at the beginning of the print. I also found where I can change this value. Should thiby Ryan_M - General
I want to try to extrude 100mm of filament to calibrate the extruder, so I don't want the hot end in place at the time. Is there a way to over-ride the min temp? For the test I just opened an STL of a basic object I got off thingiverse in Repetier host and sliced with Cura. Then I hit print, so no manual G-code on my end. When I started the print it homed to the proper 0,0,0 position then increaby Ryan_M - General
I'm about to attempt a first print in my i2 but need to get a few things figured out first. I'm using marlin FW and Repetier host. I tried doing a phantom print with no filament and it homed properly but then went to a Z of +15mm and started the print from there. I have no idea where to start looking as to why it's doing this. Also I cant get the extruder stepper to move manually to calibrate itby Ryan_M - General
I'm not a patent lawyer but it I would think getting a patent on a box would be tricky, if not impossible. Sounds like 1" rigid foam would be cheapest and easiest. Maybe have one side as a double or triple pane window to keep tabs on how things are progressing.by Ryan_M - General
I've just got my first printer moving under it's own power (prusa i2) and am using marlin FW. I have really slow z axis movement when using repetier in manual mode. X and Y move quick and crisp at expected speeds, but Z is really slow. I haven't measured it exactly but but when I tell the Z to move 10mm it looks like it moves that amount so steps per mm have got to be pretty close. In the firmwarby Ryan_M - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I haven't even finished building my Prusa i2 yet and I broke the glass that came with the kit for the heated bed. It was 3mm. I have some 6mm handy and am wondering it it is too thick. Thanksby Ryan_M - General
Fantastic! Probably why I cant get past this error: avrdude: initialization failed, rc=-1 Double check connections and try again, or use -F to override this check. Until I read that thread, everything I've read says the USBtinyISP and USBasp are equally capable but the people have had more luck with the tiny which is why I got it... Oh well back to square one. I've been tryiby Ryan_M - Controllers
I was only planning to use it to flash the boot loader. That shouldn't be bigger than 64k, should it?by Ryan_M - Controllers
Huh... I may have to revisit my heat setting choice. I just got my first regulated soldering station not too long ago and wasn't very impressed with it's performance over a standard iron. I always used the biggest iron I could fit into the space I needed, typically a 20W to 30W with a filed down tip. Wasn't until I turned my heat setting up to 370°F that I was happy with how the new iron worked -by Ryan_M - Controllers
Thanks for the reply. This area of electronics is all new to me so I appreciate the confirmation. I actually ended up ordering a USBtinyISP. I don't know one from the other but I see it's supported in the arduino IDE and seemed to be preferred over the USBasp in the google searches I did. We'll see how it turns out.by Ryan_M - Controllers
I am building my first printer and am down to setting up the firmware. I have an azteeg X1 and as I've found out I need to flash the bootloader before I can flash the firmware. Looking on the bay, it looks like the USBasp is a very economical unit. Will this do what I need? also it seems that it's a fairly simple process as it looks like the ardiuno IDE has all this built in. Is it that simple orby Ryan_M - Controllers
Thanks I'll give that a try. I notice though that the patch lets me select between v1.0 and v1.5, yet the panucatt site shows v2.0 as the last version made which looks exactly like the version I have.by Ryan_M - Controllers
Trying to flash firmware for my first time and cannot get it to go. I get an error that says: avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00 avrdude: stk500_disable(): protocol error, expect=0x14, resp=0x51 I've followed the wiki... - tried arduino IDE 0022 and 0023 - made sure the com port shows up and is selected in the software - got and used the sanguino patch and made sure proper boardby Ryan_M - Controllers
I'm finalizing construction of my Prusa i2 which has an Azteeg X1 and will be starting on the software setup soon. I've been searching for guides and information, and they all seem to give a list of half a dozen programs and drivers I need to download and then say just hit a button and watch the LEDs blink on the board as the firmware is flashed and I'm ready to go. Seems to me there might be somby Ryan_M - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I finally found out these are called D-sub compression tools. I ordered myself a Engineer PA-09. Thanks for the help.by Ryan_M - Controllers
I've been doing a lot of searching on this and watching (poorly focused!) you tube vids and all the small connectors regardless of style or manufacturer (Molex, Amp, TE, etc) seem to use the same die shape in the tool, just the size is different. Is that correct?by Ryan_M - Controllers