I went to do a thin wall test today and got a surprising result. First I drew a box 20mm sq. box with 0.40mm walls. Then I ran it thru Slic3r and got this? I don't know where the cut on the wall came from or why it is misaligned. Any one run into this before? thanksby kd6hq - Repetier
Apparently there may be a bug in the version of Slic3r that Repetier-Host uses. I decided to do a thin wall test today. I drew a box with 0.40mm walls. When I sliced it this is what I got. Not only did it cut one wall, it's not aligned Back to the drawing board....by kd6hq - Printing
Ok, what type of part would it show up with? Just a larger one say 150mm square? For each perimeter speed I have set the infill speed the same. Should the infill be printed slower than the perimeters or vise versa? In the firmware the acceleration rates for X, Y, is 3000 should that be changed? These are the setting from Marlin download. I've never changed them. #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATIby kd6hq - Printing
I ran out of room in the prior post so added another one. The speed changes for each one is shown as well as the advanced settings for 10mm/s. The same advanced settings were used for all test. So I only showed them once. Suggestions are appreciated.by kd6hq - Printing
So I did some test prints today. First was a small rectangle with 3 circles in it, a triangle and XYZ cube. The rectangle and triangle were printed at 10mm/s. The XYZ cube at 50mm/s. Then 10, 50mm squares with 5mm width. These were printed with varying speeds from 10mm/s to 100mm/s. Although none of the prints are horrible, there is room for improvement. See next post.by kd6hq - Printing
chriske To answer your question, no I have not received any file samples. Progress has been made though. If you look at the pictures I first posted, where the perimeters are separated, well that turns out to be mechanical problem. Please refer to the picture. If the rod slips (shown by the blue rod) beyond the surface (shown by the green rod) it will cause problems in the printed parts.by kd6hq - Printing
First I'm not using a RAMPS board. It's a Rumba not that there is that much difference. Today I had fun, I checked all calibration settings. X, Y, Z, extruder and stepper current. X & Y were both off by 1/2mm. Prior to all the calibration stuff, I had a couple thermal run away situations. So I changed out the hot end and sensor. I do some test prints tomorrow, including square, 45dby kd6hq - Printing
From what I've read PETG seems to need to be a little slower than PLA, but of course you get a better part (depending on your view point). The printer is a core XY, modeled after one call HyperCibe. Modeled because I built it bigger. What software / slicer are you using? Maybe it's time to change.by kd6hq - Printing
chriske The simple answer is no to all the above. The only thing the main controller board does is to heat up the hot end, provide connections for fan 1 & 2 and sensors. The small stuff. All other heavy current functions are handled by an external fused relay pcb that I built. The mosfet (60A) that handles the heated bed also has it's own pcb. So the heaviest load the controller board hby kd6hq - Printing
I found something called "Spiral vase" I suspect it may be what you are talking about. So I drew a cube and started to print it. Then something strange happened. Both my hot end and heat bed shut down by about 1/2 thru the first perimeter. So I reset everything and tried again but the same thing happened. I have not idea why !by kd6hq - Printing
Thanks but I don't know what Vase mode is?by kd6hq - Printing
Well so far I have not found the correct combination. Placing the object in different parts of the print bed does not seem to matter. The prints looked virtually identical when I tried that. So I've been varying the values in the Advance section of the settings. Those having to do with Extrusion width, Perimeters and infill. I did switch from percentages to actual values. Starting with 0.1 upby kd6hq - Printing
Thank you both for the suggestions. I will try all of them in the next day or two. The report back what happened with each one. Yes I agree that 55% is a lot, but it was helping at the time. I now have set it back to 15%.by kd6hq - Printing
I'm just printing with good old PLA, head is at 200 and bed is at 75. You mentioned that you have had problems with slic3r, the only other choices I have are Cura, Skeinforge and Slic3r Prusa Edition. What do you use for a slicer and program to run the printer? I have not check with a square or measured but I will. There is very little play in the extruder mount. I've checked that before andby kd6hq - Printing
Quick one'sby kd6hq - Printing
I can't get up high enough to do one picture, so I will post a couple. Might take a little while.by kd6hq - Printing
can't draw straight but...by kd6hq - Printing
Thank you o lampe, the digital dentist for the response. The machine is a CoreXY Belts tight - yes Calibrated steps / mm X, Y, Z - yes Slicer - (Repetier-Host) - Slic3r Ok, I adjusted the Perimeters: is set to 40 mm/s. Infill to 20 mm/s all the rest to 50% as can be seen in the attachments. I changed the number of Perimeters from 3 to 6. Infill overlap is set to 55%. . Infill amount is setby kd6hq - Printing
Up to now I've mostly just printed small parts. I did this at a slow speed and did not care about the time. Now I would like to print some bigger parts but am running into some issues that I have not been able to figure out. In picture SP-20 the inner is not fully connected to the infill. In pictures SP-40 and SP-60 are the same part just at faster speeds. When I print a circle it is slightlyby kd6hq - Printing
For anyone who is interested. I received my driver module from J Tech today. This driver has several features to it along with being able to supply current up to 2.5A. There are 5 jumper setting which allows for the setting of current in 0.5A increments. In addition there is a trim pot to fine tune the current level. So you can adjust the current for 1.3A instead of just 1.0 or 1.5A. The aby kd6hq - Laser Cutter Working Group
I understand the part about the efficiency factor of the diodes. Same way with the old time tubes. Transmitting tubes (transistors) are rated at the input power for the same reason. "It sounded better", but most have an efficiency factor somewhere around 55%. So a 100W tube (transistor) would actually only produce about 55W. Have you described how you set up the extruder to function likeby kd6hq - Laser Cutter Working Group
My problem is that I do not understand enough about electronics to fully understand what you are saying. This is what I'm thinking but I am not sure if it is correct. If I am using a 2W diode and a current setting of 1.5A. If I then use a gcode setting of S130 a pulse-length of say 12 microseconds is produced. Lets say a power output of 0.8W is produced. If I then send a signal of S192 thby kd6hq - Laser Cutter Working Group
Lets say that I have built a 10W laser. I would like to be able to change the drive current allowed by the laser thru G-code. The reason being, engraving with a 2.5W laser looks a lot different than engraving the same picture with a 10W laser. Having a diode driver board that is programmable thru G-code could make it possible. So then after the engraving you could change the power of theby kd6hq - Laser Cutter Working Group
I went back and re-read what I said above and realized that I forgot one step when modifying the X-Drive module. As stated the 10k resistor is removed, a wire is added to allow for TTL/PWM input and then capacitor C4 is removed. C4 is labeled as a ramp up capacitor. I suspect that is done to make the switching better.by kd6hq - Laser Cutter Working Group
Currently I'm using Marlin 1.1.0 - RC6 for a printer that I have attached a Laser to. I have been using M106, M107 and D9 (connection) for laser on, off and power control. I see that in Marlin 1.1.8 M3, M4 and M5 have been set up for spindle / Laser control. Is there any advantage of M3, M4, M5 over using M106/107? I know that I would need to switch to a 5V PWM pin but is there anything else?by kd6hq - Firmware - Marlin
Sorry, looks like I got a little lost, not sure how I sent it to this post but I did.by kd6hq - Firmware - Marlin
Currently I'm using Marlin 1.1.0 - RC6 for a printer that I have attached a Laser to. I have been using M106, M107 and D9 (connection) for laser on, off and power control. I see that in Marlin 1.1.8 M3, M4 and M5 have been set up for spindle / Laser control. Is there any advantage of M3, M4, M5 over using M106/107? I know that I would need to switch to a 5V PWM pin but is there anythingby kd6hq - Firmware - Marlin
o lampe on the TTL trigger - that's what I thought, thank you for the conformation. I had not thought about there being different types of laser diodes (torch-light), but then why shouldn't there be. I have the feeling if the driver pcb's have proper heat dissipation they should work as long as they are not pushed past their limits. VDX using the step pulses sounds like a interesting idea. Iby kd6hq - Laser Cutter Working Group
I seem to be in the same position that you are. Although I have purchased one laser it was not a very good choice. This is the type of laser that I purchased So for the last week or so I have been looking into building my own. From what I can tell so far if you build it yourself you will most likely end up with a better unit for the money that you spend. I have been looking at thisby kd6hq - Laser Cutter Working Group
Well that did not work out very well. Once I got the fan off and removed the connector board the container was filled with a white substance about 1/2 way up the driver board. So I closed the unit back up and restored it to the previous condition. So I decided to look into building my own laser module. It appears like this is the route I will follow. My only requirements are : I will beby kd6hq - Laser Cutter Working Group