Are these guys reputable? There website states next day lead time. I placed an order on the 10th. Inquired on the 12th , told it was going out on the 13th Today account still says processing. Of course the CC was already charged. I *really* hate being lead on. "ok, going out tomorrow" told several times drives me nuts. Just be honest upfront and you'll get my respect. But this type thing,by anode505 - General
TechZone Gen 3 Remix and TZ lasercut Mendel. I've noticed that the motors get too hot to touch. I've added a switch to kill the 12VDC while idling to reduce the heat. I've also tossed on heat sinks to the X&Y motors.by anode505 - General
Interesting to say the least. I think I'm gonna go the resistor route for now and experiment with TECs later on. Whats the typical resistance and wattage and # for for a typical mendel? Running them isn't a prob, have more then enough stuff here to run it solid.by anode505 - General
Anthong Redbeard Wrote: > For problem 2 it sounds like a wiring issue. If > you are using gen 3 electronics, there needs to be > a couple of connections between the extruder > controller and mainboard besides the power. I have > a feeling that's your issue, because the place you > need to connect to is un-intuitive. This can vary > based on firmware... the firmware I used witby anode505 - General
Wade Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Do they make them that big? A quick search found > some 50x50 mm Peltiers for $40, but at that price > it'd cost over $600 for a full Mendel. Then you > need heat sinks on the cold side, and you're still > limited to a max delta T of around 60 deg C. > Seems pretty expensive relative to a PCB heater. >by anode505 - General
Anyone use a peltier junction for a heated bed? I'd think with the surface area it could be a good fit. Plus they are kinda slim.by anode505 - General
New update, seems that if anti-ooze is turned on, I get the no Z issue. Turn it off and the Z works. Odd. (When it fails, the z axis motor makes a quick whirl/buzz type sound as if its running too fast. I've cut & pasted the gcode for the z into the manual send line and it works ok. )by anode505 - General
If its a techzone, I have this here and there. Prob is the cat-5 connector (at least for me)by anode505 - General
Update: If I have a 1mm layer it seems to work. .8mm it doesn't really move. (certainly not the .8mm. I have a dial indicator on it) Is there a way to abort a print? Pause works as a pause. but the printer resumes at the pause spot. I hae been just restarting 'snapper. reset buttons don't work either.by anode505 - General
I finally got my z Axis bind-up fixed, sorted out and machine basically done. I like RepSnapper the best of RepRap Host, ReplicatorG, and Skiengorge. With RepSnapper I can connect to the printer, (Mendel, Techzone lasercut) and move all the axis around, home them, etc. But when I tried a dry run print (no extruder or hot end connected) the Z axis never moved. The motor even stayed cold. Wheby anode505 - General
Love it. As a newbie it can really help with where things are at. A software/firmware version would be nice too.by anode505 - General
If for PCBs, maybe something along the lines of magnet wire? Start of with bare wire, lay it down via the extruder along with the varnish. The varnish if its heated should dry/cure pretty quickly. Holding the starting ends might be a bugger.by anode505 - General
ok. Opened a handful in a text editor and see both are used. I had originally thought that the reprap software would only take one type.by anode505 - General
Davebass, ballscrews are near zero backlash and for acme threads anti backlash nuts are available. Now with the Z axis with standard threaded rod (not lead screw) the leadscrew without anti baclash is still ahead of the curve. And a leadscrew nut isn't like a hex nut, its a threaded 'piece' which can have mounting holes/brackets. As for keeping the 'screw' slop free, thats what thrust bearingsby anode505 - General
I like the idea of the SD card. It can/could be tweaked to run stand alone. If the PC is just to feed gcode lines one by one, and offer the UI a few buttons, start, stop, continue, and a LCD to select which file to run, could replace the PC, no? Even if a separate uController.by anode505 - General
Aren't the rods/frame bigger then it can print? Piecing it together isn't the best option. Though not the end of the world if you still use the harden rods as the 'ways'by anode505 - General
Thanks nophead I may go the 2.5 route if I can find right bore size (or no bore, have a lathe) But now experiencing a new prob, the motor is skipping. I'm going to go through the mechanics and look for friction. But feel I'm pretty close to it being good and think the motor is too close to it's limits. I'm pondering adding a second motor and Siameseing a second controler or a bigger motor. (by anode505 - General
Thanks Dazed. Looks like #2. Didn't think I changed/unplugged that connection. (not to mention the PCB-pinouts are not documented well if at all)by anode505 - General
It was the motor driver chip (well one of that is noticeable) on the extruder board. The smoke was the tell-tale since there were no motors or heater/TC hooked up at that point. A new board doesn't bother me so much, its more that when it had a load it was fine, with no load it fried. Don't want to pop in a new board to find the same result. Also doubt any of these would pass UL/CE/CSA withby anode505 - General
The threaded rod is the hold up? Check electrical supply shops. Its also used to hang conduit, lights, and other stuff. In the States its called All-Thread.by anode505 - General
I just smoked my (techzone) extruder board. Odd thing is I was commissioning it a few hours ago. (heater worked, hit target temps well according to thermal cam) Stepper/feeder worked. Then just running a 'dry run' (with no heater or stepper/feeder connected) The board released its smoke. I was a bit surprised being there was no load on it. Though I guess there could be feedback, haven't lookby anode505 - General
Techzone lasercut mendel. On another note, why was it originally designed with unobtainium? I've looked at the STLs of replacement parts and they are 8 toothed which seems to a non existent pulley in the real world.by anode505 - General
My Z Axis motor pulley (lasercut/techzone) slips big time. I've searched for a 'real' pulley but haven't found an 8 toothed version (most sites seem to start at 10 teeth) Pondered making one, but its a bit of set-up and tooling (do have a mill well tooled) Also pondered drilling a small hole through the pulley and shaft and pining it. And making a kludge of a key way in both and a little JBby anode505 - General
Yeah I can see where I can home a single axis, but like I said, for a 3 axis homing, the tool should retract first. I might give a shot at fixing it, but thats down the road a bit (have a mega PLC program to finish up after this Mendel is up an running)by anode505 - General
High speed leadscrews don't turn the screw (it will start to whip) they turn the nut instead.by anode505 - General
Newbie here my self (and you English is MUCH better then my Portuguese) The Rep Rap can be modded into a CNC. People have used different toolheads. Z Axis is screw driven, Y&X are belt. As for belt and pulleys, a little math (and maybe firmware tweak) can fix for not being able to find the 'right' size pulleys. (a 2:1 ratio is the same if the drive motor is 10mm and driven is 20mm or isby anode505 - General
Also if you are going to go the leadscrew method, use an acme thread (with anti backlash nuts) or ball screw. Typical hardware store threaded rod is not meant for use as a lead screw, its meant to hold things together and not constant use. (can ya tell I'm a CNC service engineer?)by anode505 - General
Has anyone done printing in wax for metal casting? Or on the back end, making molds. Though the surface finish would need to be dealt with on the molds (but could also just hit the wax part with a pencil torch) Any ideas for smoothing a ABS/PLA printed mold? Heated clay sculpting tools?by anode505 - General
I just got toe the point of moving things around with RepSnapper. Now when I home all, It does the X then Y then Z. This can't be the norm can it?!?! I haven't tried any other of the host software, so not sure if its a RepSnapper issue or firmware. Every CNC I have worked on (I currently fix CNC lasers for a living), retracts the tool first, so the other axis don't crash into the tool.by anode505 - General