Hallo, ich klinke mich mal hier in die (alte) Diskussion ein. Habe auch die gleichen kurzen Motoren hier. Ich hab sie in einem Plotter eingebaut und sie laufen auch sehr gut. Als Treiber benutze ich die DRV8825. Habe aber auch schon die "alten" A4988 Driver benutzt. Ich hab am Treiber das Current Limit auf 200mV eingestellt. So wie die Dame von Pololu erklärt. Die Motoren laufen mit 1/32 Microsvon ianmcmill - Elektrik & Elektronik
Hello, Configuration: Controller: Arduino + RAMPS 1.4 Firmware: #define SHORT_BUILD_VERSION "1.1.0-RC5" Direct USB prints (for years) No limit switches. All soft limited. Since...ever. after several successfull prints with #define SHORT_BUILD_VERSION "1.1.0-RC5" I wonder what this strange debug message wants to tell me. It has been there since I have flashed the firmware but the prints work fvon ianmcmill - Firmware - Marlin
Hi, I soldered a 2-pin header on D2 as this was mentioned in . I have read now that D2 is connected directly to 12v. This means as soon as you power up the setup the extruder fan blows at freaking full speed. (Should be mentioned in this wiki) Question: I want to use D9 for the fan to cool the extruded filament and another fan for the extruder body cooling it down using the auto fan feature. Wvon ianmcmill - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Hi Jörg, Pin 2 und 3 gehen beide an den Minus Pin an meinem Teensylu. Ich werd mal bei Zeit die ganze Heizplatte über ein Relay heizen. Dann sollte es auch schneller auf Zieltemperatur sein und die MOSFETs schützen, da die dann nur noch zum Schalten da sind und nicht zum Heizen. Die Antwort von joni-bo hab ich auch viel zu spät gelesen. Macht jetzt auch Sinn. Quotejoni-bo für mich sieht es sovon ianmcmill - Druck- und Heizbetten
So Cura worked out better? Interesting...von ianmcmill - Printing
Okay so I hope my joy is not hasty but the underextrusion is gone and the layers print fine again. Here is what I did: I tried several hobbed bolts. There was no improvement. One even chipped the filament. So I went back to my first hobbed bolt and there ya go. It works again. So what do we learn from this? If something does not work out in the first place, repeat until it works. Do the same tvon ianmcmill - Printing
All above mentioned measures did not solve the issue. I still get those underextrusions.von ianmcmill - Printing
Try Cura Enginge to slice your parts and try to calibrate with that. I think this is a Slic3r bug.von ianmcmill - Printing
I have disassembled the whole extruder (gears, hobbed bolt) and reassembled everything again. The hobs on the bolt where veeeery slightly off center before but this worked for the last 1 year without flaws. I put another spacer between the big gear (herringbone gear; wade extruder) and now the hobs are perfeclty center. I also disassembled the complete X axis and reassembled it. Tightened the belvon ianmcmill - Printing
Perimeters: 0.32 mm External Perimeters: 0.32 mm I may be wrong but isn't this too thin for a 0.4mm nozzle? Since I started 3d printing I have always used 0.4mm for perimeters respectively 0.4mm as default extrusion width. I think you shouldn't go thinner than your nozzle is in diameter. A precise extrusion with (0.1mm) less then your actual nozzle size is very hard to achieve IMHO. Imagine youvon ianmcmill - Printing
Hey I wonder if a dual x axis motor setup would eliminate ghosting and cornering? Like mirroring the x axis motor mount and puttting it on the right side aswell?von ianmcmill - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDaniel Pfau ...but having weird outcomes anyways when i wanna print. Like how? QuoteDaniel Pfau But as soon as the X Axis hits the X-Endstop switch (Manual) the Y axis is loosing power with zero torque (easily moveable by hand as if theres no motor) and probably the reference as well. In your config you set // Disables axis when it's not being used. #define DISABLE_X 0 #define DISABLE_von ianmcmill - Printing
As Putzer said -> Calibration. Did you calibrate the axis well? Also I have never printed in ABS (I hate the warping issues and my heated bed never reaches 100°C) I have heard that ABS prints often suffer from shrinkage.von ianmcmill - Printing
I have made the same experiences AFTER calibrating the wall thickness. This is strange as this calibration process should eliminate just these issues. You could try a test print with excessive wall thicknesses under Slic3r's advanced tab. To what extend did you adjust the perimeter and infill thickness? What is your nozzle size? What I did is not the solution but I went back to uncalibrated walvon ianmcmill - Printing
Hello. Since a few days I get these ugly underextrudes. I tried several filament lots (three different filaments, all PLA) and every axis/extruder is calibrated very well. It used to print without this flaw but suddenlty decided to go down south. I went through the pictorial guide and I think that "Infill gaps to perimeter" might be closest to my problem. BUT the spool holder didn't change as ofvon ianmcmill - Printing
Hello I have recently started to print the parts for the Cyclone PCB Factory 2.1. Now while assembling I have realized that all the nut slots and screw bores are way to big. The nuts often spin while trying to fasten the screws. I have checked the config file (as the whole thing is parametric) and the dimensions for nuts and bores are as follows. These are the configs for the nuts (Metric) 5.von ianmcmill - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
Ich hab mich auch mal auf der Karte eingetragen.von ianmcmill - Schwarzes Brett
Hey Viktor! How do you set the pulse ON-time? Isn't this generated by plugins for let's say the inkscape laser plugin automatically ?? I don't know anything about changing pulse timers...von ianmcmill - Laser Cutter Working Group
Hello two years ago I built the Frankenstein Laser Engraver from trash. Today I am more into 3d printing and RAMPS or printrboard boards but recently found my old laser again. It uses this TTL driver on which the current is set by a potentiometer. I made a laser shield for an Arduino Uno myself. Now I wanted to attach this laser driver to an RAMPS or printrboard. Now jtechphotonics offers a kitvon ianmcmill - Laser Cutter Working Group
Yeah I know what you mean. Also I don't trust those fishing lines. I am currently trying to build a tiny cnc for pcb-ing and this one uses nylon strings as a belts. But I first have to see and build such a belt drive myself.von ianmcmill - CoreXY Machines
Ah nice topic. I was looking for exactly such a thread. I want to build a new printer out of my old one and have done some searching about CoreXY printers. I want one made out of wood which is easy to cut by hand without a CNC. Also I don't want one made out of aluminium profiles to cut down cost. I have some 10mm wood plates laying around. So I came across two coreXY designes which look good.von ianmcmill - CoreXY Machines
Also ich hab gerade nochmal mit dem Interessenten geschrieben. Er meinte es nicht abfällig, ist nur skeptisch ob bei der Achsenlänge sich nicht etwas verkantet bzw. präzise läuft. Ich halte euch mal auf dem Laufenden. Heaterblock Ersatzteil ist heute angekommen. Ich werd das ganze dann mal im Projektforum veröffentlichen.von ianmcmill - Schwarzes Brett
Habe ich doch entschlossen das Teil fertig zubauen und nicht zuverkaufen. Ein Interessente meinte etwas abfällig das wäre ja eine Eigenkonstruktion und nicht mehr Wert als 120€. Bis auf Extruder Leakage läuft das Ding jetzt superb.von ianmcmill - Schwarzes Brett
Also...Ich war jetzt beim Baumarkt meines Vertrauens und hab Material besorgt. Es gab leider nur 5mm Aluminium Rundstangen, dafür aber ein passendes Messing Rundrohr mit 6mm OD und 0.5mm Wandstärke. Stahlrundstangen gab es leider nur ab 6mm, 8mm, 10mm. Trotzdem war ich erstaunt das der Hornbach schon Edelstahlrundstangen hat. Die könnte man sogar für einen richtigen 3D Drucker nutzen wenn mal Notvon ianmcmill - Projekte
Als ich letztens durch Youtube gezappt habe, bin ich auf diese kleine Arduino CNC gestoßen. Eigentlich ein kleiner Plotter, gedacht um PCB Layouts auf eine Platine zubekommen. Die Konstruktion mit Heißkleber und Nylonfaden hat mich aber fasziniert. Das ganze kann auch sehr einfach mit einem Laser aufgerüstet werden. Als ich dann ein bischen weiter gegraben habe, stieß ich auf eine wahre Goldgrubevon ianmcmill - Projekte
I got it working with Eggduino. Really cool firmware. Works like a charm. Just two little modifications in eggbot.py and in eggbot_scanwin32.py and you can control the spherebot/eggbot/eggduino directly from within Inkscape. I described the changes to be made here. Also read the readme from the developer for the other change in eggbot.py. These modifactions are only needed for Windows computers.von ianmcmill - General
I am getting some errors when trying to run your script. But for some really strange reasons the Spherebot UI posted here work: If I try the latest version from thunderbug1's github, it does not work. Now I have to figure out how to configure inkscape and its unicorn export settings to draw on a table tennis ball. Are there any things I have to consider or is there a specific for the spherebovon ianmcmill - General
Success !!! After 12 hours of messing around I have managed to get my spherebot accept commands. I have tried several firmwares, different driver modules (A4988 / DRV8825), USB cables, power supplies. Nothing worked. The servo and the steppers work with the examples sketches. My solution: I used thunderbug1's firmware. IMHO this is the most mature firmware available. I setup the pins accordvon ianmcmill - General
Cool I have one of these Adafruit Motor Shields laying around here for years now. I just wanted to compile your firmware when I got compile errors. The Adafruit Motor Shield Library does not contain the files you include in your sketch. You included Wire.h Adafruit_MotorShield.h "utility/Adafruit_PWMServoDriver.h" But the library only contains: AFMotor.cpp AFMotor.h along with some examplvon ianmcmill - General