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Australian market place
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65$ US + shipping cost
by
thainfamousnate
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General
would anyone be interested in a used .4 prusa nozzle?
by
thainfamousnate
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General
jzatopa, ive tried up 300C, the highest recommended temp for ABS. i dont think the thermistor is rated for much higher temps...
by
thainfamousnate
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General
ive tried 2 kinds of black ABS, and 1 kind of red red ABS. no matter what ive tried the filament slips and the hobbed bolt eats into it and you can hear the extruder clicking, missing steps. i spent most of the past weekends trying to get it working to no avail. ive also tried yellow and translucent green PLA. i must have over 100 .5mm thin wall calibration tests that messed up on the 1st or seco
by
thainfamousnate
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General
whoops! forgot to put the nozzle diameter back to .5, sorry about that.
by
thainfamousnate
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Repetier
now the z axis problem is back!! i got frustrated with the prusa nozzle and took it off. i was printing well for a while with my budaschnozzle. now the z axis m5 threaded leadscrews are only turning an 1/8 a turn when going to the next layer at a layer height of .4 with the .5 nozzle. when i tell it to go up 1mm in slic3rs manual control it goes 1mm and moves more than a 1/2 turn. the problem onl
by
thainfamousnate
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Repetier
i still cant get it to consistently extrude in manual control, even pushing the filament hard by hand into it(helping it), it always strips the filament. ive completely disassembled the extruder and cleaned it. ive tried very loose to very tight on the extruder spring also. ive tried temps from 250-290. ive triple checked the alignment of the extruder to the nozzle also.
Backtracking-
when i f
by
thainfamousnate
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General
so yesterday i was getting good .5 mm thin wall boxes. today i cant even get it too extrude consistently. ive tried up to 180C, ive tried all kinds of tightness and looseness on the extruder. im starting to think its the filament, i noticed air bubbles inside of it. im thinking the hobbed bolt hits an air bubble and collapses the filament then eats into it. im waiting on new ABS from Lulzbot. im
by
thainfamousnate
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General
chris 33, im a seasoned newbie when it comes to 3d printing. from the labs/ Hackerspaces ive been too and makers ive talked too it seems there are 2 groups of 3d printests, people that want to build one for as cheap as possible and those who want to spend a little more money when they know the product will last a lot longer. i do agree with reprap squad about my frame being overkill, but consider
by
thainfamousnate
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General Mendel Topics
im using a 12vDC 20A 240W Power Supply from lulzbot
by
thainfamousnate
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General
ive looked at the file, would it need to be hollow( do you need to see through the windows to the other side?) or could they be inset a little with a solid core. the scale looks full size, what scale ratio where you looking for?
by
thainfamousnate
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General
is it to the scale you want in the sketchup file? im a 3DS max Designer/CAD Drafter in Florida, with 3d printing as a hobby. what is your budget and timeline? would the model need support material?( Does it have big overhangs?)
by
thainfamousnate
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General
still refining also, im getting fairly good small prints at 270C w/ 7mm/s retraction speed and .5 length. i have a fan pointed at the extruder stepper which i moved a little to also cool the hobbed bolt, i think the filament strips were due to extruding at to low a temp. this nozzle definitely doesn't like fast retractions as someone stated earlier. on another note in this thread, i work at a hug
by
thainfamousnate
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General
problem solved !! heavier gauge wire fixed the power connector problem. the z motors seem to step well with current control at 170 too. thanks for the help!!!
by
thainfamousnate
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Repetier
im using repetier and used to have the same problems with my z motors. the motors were cheap so i switched them with high torque kysan nema 17s, i also changed the current control in repetier config from 135 to 170 because that current drives 2 z motors. keep an eye on heat when upping current though
by
thainfamousnate
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Printing
akhlut, did changing the retract speed and distance take care of your filament stripping issues?
im running Black 3mm ABS at 270C on my i3( started at 250C)
by
thainfamousnate
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General
i had the same problem w/ reprapdiscount!!! i ordered 2 of the .4 nozzles after i saw jo's post that reprapdiscount bought 50. i went to their website where they said they had available nozzles and ordered 2. i got an email 2 days later saying they were on back order. then i proceeded to raise a little fuss and ask questions. i then went on ebay and found reprapdiscount auctioning off 3 seperate
by
thainfamousnate
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General
i put the extruder motor current back down to 135 - 135,135,170,135,135; but i still think i need to go lower as it still gets very hot even with a 40mm fan pointed at it. ive red online to turn the digipot down on the extruder, would you reccomend that? also the 2nd wire on the 6 pin connector from power supply to RAMBo Board(the one that melted into the plastic connector) melted a tiny hole in
by
thainfamousnate
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Repetier
im trying to find 3.1 mm I,D, Ptfe tubing called out here -
, but tantillus.org redirects me to the rep rap wiki page, has the store front disbanded?
i see 4 mm ID Tubing on ebay cheap from hong kong, but i worry about the play of 3mm filament in 4 mm tubing
by
thainfamousnate
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Tantillus
ive got two in lantau island hong kong!!
anyone recommend a dual extruder or bowden system?
by
thainfamousnate
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General
its working! i have the current control at 135,135,170,170,135. the problem was the cheap nema 17s i was using. i also had a wire on the 6 pin power connector to the RAMBo Board get real hot and melt and wander into the connector plastic, melting it. i had noticed glitches with the extruder heating element not always turning on when i tried to re-warm it up from a recent print also. i was advised
by
thainfamousnate
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Repetier
ok so ive been trying to print and having trouble with what i think is the layer height. im using a .5 nozzle and a layer height of .4 and the prints seem shortened on the z axis. when i step up to a .5 nozzle and a layer height of .5 it seems to help some. going below .4 layer height was yielding the same shortened effect only more dramatic. ive also tried adjusting the extrusion multiplier to .
by
thainfamousnate
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Repetier
thanks a lot!! ive measured with a caliper and found that when x was told 10 it went 15.3, i adjusted this with the prusa calc. now im having a generated g code not found error, but thats an easy fix in slic3r directories.. the motors seemed to keep up when i lowered the z feed rate back to 2000 something so i dont think its a digipot thing, just a layer height thing. im using m5 threaded rod for
by
thainfamousnate
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Repetier
the x and y axis are calibrated beautifully but the z axis wont go up much. i started w/ a steps per mm of 400 on z, now im up to 5000 from 3000 something( which worked well, just not tall enough). the prints didnt seem tall enough so i upped the steps. the problem im having is the z motors glitch when told to go up for the next layer, they will make a 1/8 turn and hum loud when i know the leads
by
thainfamousnate
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Repetier
@repetier, is their a page that calls out all the functions of the different lines of code in config? like a version for dummys? id like to know what some of the later code means
by
thainfamousnate
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Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
i dont fully trust printed parts as a long term solution, the nut traps on the gantry support the weight of the whole gantry and the pieces are pulling apart at that joint. if i dont get up and printing soon ill have to buy more printed parts for the gantry. the parts i did buy couldn't of had more than 50% infill. i might change my mind about printed parts once i start printing at 80-100% infill
by
thainfamousnate
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General
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