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Printing issues ...
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Quotethetazzbot
Bummer. But laser cut wont make any difference if assembly is not accurate.
The issue is the rod ends and those will be replaced so it should solve that problem.
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quillford
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Reprappers
The length on them is consistent. I was not paying particular attention to the rod ends aligning with each other on either side, so two of my rods have misaligned rod ends.
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quillford
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Reprappers
Are there any designs out there for laser cut delta rods/arms? I currently have CF rods with traxxas rod ends, but I screwed up on some of them and the traxxas rod ends are misaligned on a few. Are laser cut rods even practical?
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quillford
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Reprappers
Wiring is all correct. X endstop is in the X min header, and the firmware is set to home to min. As for software, I use slic3r which is not the issue as I confirmed with gcode.ws. Marlin is the firmware.
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quillford
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General
My X motor and endstop are on the left of the printer. It homes in the right direction, but prints are mirrored on that axis. Any ideas on how to fix this? A software solution would be preferable (and not mirroring the part in the slicer every print ).
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quillford
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General
I want to have the fan on my e3d only turn when it is above a certain temp. Which pins could I use?
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quillford
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General
QuoteMindRealm
With a meter on the power input ground for reference, the positive terminal in D9 will always read around 12v, regardless of whether the fan is turned on in G-Code (M106). The negative terminal reading depends on the duty cycle of the PWM output of the Arduino, driving the negative (ground) through the mosfet. Technically, the output on the negative terminal is always at ground pot
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quillford
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Reprappers
I am having an issue with my D9 output on ramps 1.4. The ground output on D9 seems to only give out ~2V while the positive supplies 12V. If I use ground from the incoming power and positive from D9, the fan will spin. How can I fix this? I am not well versed in electrical terms.
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quillford
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Reprappers
My first printer, a Printrbot Simple, came with ABL on it, so when I built my Prusa i3, I added on a zprobe for ABL since I have never manually leveled my bed. Now the ABL is taking longer to setup on my i3 and is very finicky. How would I go about adding manual leveling screws? Here is my current setup. I have a glass bed and aluminum Y carriage coming in the mail. Any pics of your setup would b
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quillford
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Reprappers
Quotedougal1957
Quotequillford
Quotedougal1957
Quotequillford
Quotedougal1957
Quotequillford
QuoteAquaticsLive
What does you printer look like?
Maybe a quick picture would help.
I have scoured the sites as well found few good ideas, but may need to be modified to use on your printer. If you give me an idea of what you would like I can draw one up for you quick in cad or convert one. My prin
by
quillford
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Reprappers
Quotenophead
Yes it will go into standby if you disconnect those.Perfect. Thanks
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quillford
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Reprappers
I would recommend using Cura directly. It is a great piece of software from Ultimaker.
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quillford
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Reprappers
I have an xbox power supply that works, but I want to add a switch. Do I simply place a switch between the red and blue wires?
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quillford
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Reprappers
QuoteAndrew Smith
Capacitive sensors are better since they can read a glass or PEI print surface directly, whereas the inductive sensor will read the alumnium heatspreader or the tracks in the PCB heater. Which makes no practical difference for many users, but if you regularly change your print surface it might be an issue.Interesting. Does it work the same way in terms of configuring the firmwar
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quillford
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Reprappers
Quotejhondon
@ zerodameaon :
I didn't know about that enhanced G29, I'll give it a try after changing my M5 rods in z axis, they are wobbling extremely now. I will update later
@quillford
I'm thinking about implementing that, how does that induction proximity sensor works for you? is it really that reliable than the mechanical end switch?It works really well. I have not tried a mechanical swit
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quillford
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Reprappers
Quotedougal1957
Quotequillford
Quotedougal1957
Quotequillford
QuoteAquaticsLive
What does you printer look like?
Maybe a quick picture would help.
I have scoured the sites as well found few good ideas, but may need to be modified to use on your printer. If you give me an idea of what you would like I can draw one up for you quick in cad or convert one. My printer has a metal case with a nic
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quillford
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Reprappers
Here is how I do it on my Cartesian.
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quillford
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Reprappers
Quotedougal1957
Quotequillford
QuoteAquaticsLive
What does you printer look like?
Maybe a quick picture would help.
I have scoured the sites as well found few good ideas, but may need to be modified to use on your printer. If you give me an idea of what you would like I can draw one up for you quick in cad or convert one. My printer has a metal case with a nice lip on it, so I made a rather
by
quillford
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Reprappers
QuoteAquaticsLive
What does you printer look like?
Maybe a quick picture would help.
I have scoured the sites as well found few good ideas, but may need to be modified to use on your printer. If you give me an idea of what you would like I can draw one up for you quick in cad or convert one. My printer has a metal case with a nice lip on it, so I made a rather simplemount for the stepper mo
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quillford
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Reprappers
QuoteAquaticsLive
I print Ninja Flex with my bowden, actually it prints it a little better with bowden, and I can run it a little faster. Not sure if you have tried it, but with my direct drive I set all the speeds at 15mm/s in slic3r and worked good, it was a suggestion I found online. Now with my bowden I print it at 20mm/s not great speed, but it really prints nice which is always my goal.
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quillford
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Reprappers
Quotequillford
I am going to try this one.Unfortunately, it did not even fit around the hot end.
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quillford
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Reprappers
I am going to try this one.
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quillford
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Reprappers
QuoteAquaticsLive
What does you printer look like?
Maybe a quick picture would help.
I have scoured the sites as well found few good ideas, but may need to be modified to use on your printer. If you give me an idea of what you would like I can draw one up for you quick in cad or convert one. My printer has a metal case with a nice lip on it, so I made a rather simplemount for the stepper mo
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quillford
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Reprappers
QuoteAquaticsLive
check out this video
A quick view of an upgrade that looks pretty good on a Prusa, decent ideas anyhow.Bowden is not really practical for me as I like to experiment with filaments including flexible.
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quillford
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Reprappers
I am looking for a printable mount for my Greg's Extruder and E3D v6. I am using the one here. I have scoured Thingiverse, but currently, its SEO is garbage. Thanks
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quillford
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Reprappers
The kit looks good if you get a decent hot end. I would recommend an E3D V6.
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quillford
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quotevegasloki
Quotequillford
Can you link it? The only one I found is a GitHub client
Octoprint Google Plus
Octodroid Google Plus
Thanks, but someone already personal messaged it to me.
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quillford
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General
Quotezerodameaon
I have given AstroPrint a try and I do like where it is headed. At the moment I do not find the split between local UI and the website based UI to be very friendly when I am working remotely. I still have to remote into a PC on my network to use the local UI or have my girlfriend start the print for me. Also maybe an expert settings panel for the cloud slicers as well as streamin
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quillford
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General
Quotesolomondg
It looks like your Z feedrate might be too high. Try lowering your Z max feedrate to 3 (mm/s). I had the exact same problem as you, and just lowering the feedrate (and as such the speed) fixed it.It seems to have resolved the issue. Thanks
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quillford
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Reprappers
Whenever I home my Z axis, the motors just start making a sound without moving. Which setting should I adjust to make this work? Here is what is happening. Sorry for the bad video quality, but it should get the point across.
M501:
echo:Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded
echo: Steps per unit:
echo: M92 X99.67 Y98.43 Z4000.00 E836.00
echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s):
echo: M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z5.00
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quillford
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Reprappers
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