Show all posts by user
Printing issues ...
QuoteDjDemonD
Might be worth reading this
Thanks DjDemonD, very nice summary and would be very useful for dual printing. "Ramming" the filament seems to be the way to go to prevent stringing.
However, I doubt this is the reason for my problem, as I am only using single filament printing for now, until I can be sure that I can extrude reliably for the entire duration of the print. The problems
by
drmaestro
-
General
I actually have a similar setup with 2 Titans (1 is original, 1 is a clone) and the Y splitter. I also use a Prometheus 2.0 hotend. I am actually having difficulties with my setup:
I can easliy manually extrude plastic. I can start printing (single or dual filament) without a problem. However I have a hard time finishing prints, as most of them stop due to an extrusion problem. The problem is a
by
drmaestro
-
General
Hi,
I generally use Simplify3D for slicing but I wanted to try the new Slicer version for Prusa MK2, so downloaded it. Sliced an object. It printed the first layer without a problem but on the second level it slowed down considerably. By considerably I mean it practically seemed to be stopped but you could see that it was printing if you watched carefully. I turned the knob to speed it up but at
by
drmaestro
-
Printing
Hi,
I have a small problem with the G29 (automatic bed leveling) command. The hotend performs bed leveling moves and ends up at the upper right diagonal corner, going up in Z direction, performing a retraction move, then going down on Z direction again until it reaches the first layer height and starts printing at the required coordinates.My problem is with that retraction: It is too fast and my
by
drmaestro
-
Reprappers
Actually I am trying them right now.
Using 32 steps with RAMPS board on X and Y axis (removed the middle jumper to enable 32 steps and also had to increase the steps from 80 to 160 on both axes).
Quiter than 4988s for sure.
Not quiter than my TMC2100s. More like a very silent 4988. I can't hear the steppers while using TMC2100s, I can definitely hear them with these.
Works cooler than TMCs a
by
drmaestro
-
Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Hi,
Is there an option in Marlin to show the completion percentage on the full graphic lcd? It shows a progress bar only which is less predictable.
Thanks
by
drmaestro
-
Firmware - Marlin
Hi,
Today I was being careless and forgot that I was using a metal plate on top of the heated bed with exposed soldering joints and tried to change the plate while the heated bed was on. As a result, the metal plate created a short circuit, accompainied by some smoke and fire effects on RAMPS side. Now, when I turn on the printer, the heated bed is always on, even though I didn't set anything. I
by
drmaestro
-
Reprappers
Hi,
Thanks for the answer. I use the latest RCBugfix of Marlin on A RAMPS 1.4 board. I know all about the encoder settings there and tried to change the steps before. That can of course help for the spontaneous value changes, but it makes the encoder less responsive, as it requires more rotation to register as a step. What I need is a better encoder, like the volume knob of an amplificator, whic
by
drmaestro
-
Reprappers
Hi,
I am using Reprap Discount's LCD monitor (a Chinese clone probably) and I am really unhappy how the rotary encoder works. It is almost impossible to choose an exact value as it tends to change when you press the bouton. The worst case is when I try to move the Z axis at the end of a print, where sometimes it spontaneously goes to a negative value while pressing the move Z axis button, crashi
by
drmaestro
-
Reprappers
Are you asking if you have to reset Arduino before loading the new firmware? If so, no, you don't need to. It is going to overwrite the new code and reset itself when the firmware is uploaded.
Be very very careful when modifying configuration.h .It isn't very complicated but can be intimidating and get ready for some failed attempts and unexpected behaviour from your printer, as there are many
by
drmaestro
-
Reprappers
BLTouch can also be an option. It doesn't matter if you print on glass or metal.....
by
drmaestro
-
General
QuoteMutley3D
Most of the drivers commonly used in 3D printing, are designed for general stepper motor control (Pololu etc) and not specifically 3D printing which requires steppers with absolute motion control integrity. ie no micro-step jumping for best results.
J
Does that mean we still don't have the ideal stepper drivers yet?
by
drmaestro
-
General
I've been trying those TMC 2100s for a while. I've got them from a vendor on Aliexpress. I've also bought some original ones. I use them with the jumpers removed and I don't short anything else. They are very very silent compared to 4988s however I find them to be more unstable, so I occasionally change back to 4988s. I've added a 80 mm fan now, so maybe they'll perform better.
Just a question:
by
drmaestro
-
General
QuoteJamesK
...use a linear regulator with appropriate capacitors to produce a good 5V line.
When I've bought the regulator I thought I was achieving that goal. Apparently a linear regulator is different form a buck converter.
by
drmaestro
-
Reprappers
As Dust mentioned, the 5 volts provided by mega can be overloaded according to many post on the subject, especially if you are also using an LCD screen. So, that's why I choose to supply my own 5V supply. Here is my wiring setup:
As you can see, the GND connector on the regulator is not connected to anywhere right now.
by
drmaestro
-
Reprappers
The BLTouch has 2 connectors. One is a 2 pin connector, which is used to connect to Z min sensor pins on RAMPS. The other one has 3 pins (GND,5 volts,signal) and this is connected to the first servo pins (servo 0) on RAMPS. The RAMPS board requires you to either put a jumper to a pin very close to the servo pins to provide 5 volts to the servo pins (as you can see on the photo: ) or you need to p
by
drmaestro
-
Reprappers
Thanks for the answer. The voltage regulator input (12 V) is directly connected to the PSU and there is nothing else connected to those ports. However, I didn't connect the 5 V output's negative part to anything, so it is only the 5 V positive output that is connected. Do I need to connect the negative output to the same negative output on the PSU?
by
drmaestro
-
Reprappers
Hi,
I use this:
I set it at 5 volts.
by
drmaestro
-
Reprappers
Hi,
I have a 12 Volts, 30A PSU power supply (Sxzyu x360 12). My printer has 1 extruder, a heated bed, a 4 lines LCD display, a BLTouch leveling tool. My power requirement should probably be around 20 A, so 30 should be sufficent. However I sometimes see some erratic behaviour with BLtouch. I am using a regulator to convert 12 volts from the PSU to 5 volts and use this to feed the 5 volts pin on
by
drmaestro
-
Reprappers
Hi,
Congratulations on the good work. Do you think this could also be used to print with dissolvable supports?
by
drmaestro
-
Developers
Hi,
I'd like to know if somebaody has some experience with Palette 3D multifilament printing system. They had a Kickstarter a few years ago and their website is located at:
What I would really like to know is if it works with support material. I am not really interested in multicolor printing but being able to print support material with only one hotend is really advantageous.
Thanks
by
drmaestro
-
Printing
Hi,
I am using BLtouch for bed leveling and it works really good most of the time. However, sometimes it can malfunction and I assume it is due to a voltage problem (the red light flickers when the hotend is heating, so it is being influenced by components which draw current). I am using a voltage regulator to convert 12 volts to 5 volts but I think it would be better to use the voltage regulat
by
drmaestro
-
Reprappers
Quotethe_digital_dentist
1) If it isn't controlled by the printer's controller, you will have to babysit the printer while the bed heats up. You can't just hit the go button and walk away like you can if the bed heater is controlled by the printer's controller.
2) Is the controller a simple bang-bang thermostat or a PID controller? Bang-bang sucks. Even Marlin has PID control built in.
Hi d
by
drmaestro
-
Reprappers
Hi,
I'd like to know what your thoughts about silicone heated bed pads with an included thermostat. There is one at here
Do you think it would be easier to set up and use compared to a SSR controlled one? Do we lose anything in this system, as it isn't controlled by RAMPS anymore?
Thanks
by
drmaestro
-
Reprappers
What are your coasting - retraction - wipe settings in Simplify3D?
by
drmaestro
-
Printing
Hi,
The wall thickness of an object is important for printing quality. If it doesn't match the extrusion width or a multiple of it there could be gaps while printing. It is easy to know the wall thickness of an object if you have designed it yourself but how can you measure the wall thickness of an object you have downloaded from Internet (for example from Thingiverse)?
Thanks
by
drmaestro
-
Printing
How can that thing cost 1200 Canadian dollars??? The inflation in Canada should be worse than I've thought
by
drmaestro
-
Reprappers
QuoteJamesK
Best investment I ever made was a good quality soldering station with digital temperature control and interchangeable tips.
Any particular brands?
by
drmaestro
-
Reprappers
There was no shipping option for Turkey yesterday. Is it also fixed?
by
drmaestro
-
Duet
I used a multimeter to check for the voltage and it was an acceptable value (0,7 I think) so I don't think it was a pot problem. I suppose I shorted something or burned a component while I was trying to solder it.
by
drmaestro
-
Reprappers