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Printing issues ...
Those traces are directly connected to the 12 or 24v supply.
So no you cant use them for the thermister.
You want the thermistor poking through the hole in the middle so it can come into contact with what you are putting on top of the heated bed as your build plate.
By the way, those supply wires for the heated bed look a bit under rated for the power needed by ghd heated bed.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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General
Someone else had a very similar problem a couple of weeks ago.
Have you seen that post?
In short.
His motor drivers were getting too hot by that point in the print that it stopped and tripped the failsafe in the stepper driver boards.
Have you tuned the stepper drivers with the trim pot?
If not do so and try again.
They do have hest sinks, dont they?
If you have, try aiming a fan at the contro
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gordonendersby
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Printing
Thanks.
Already looked there.
No 3mm short lengths.
I don't need them to be free or to be free with an order of other material.
I've got reels of abs and pla that I'm using now, don't need any more at the moment.
Just want a few metres that I can try out without buying a full roll.
Ill have to try emailing suppliers and suggesting it.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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Printing
Ive been searching the suppliers and the internet for sample sized lengths of t-glass to try out.
Cant find anything but full spools so far but dont want to splash out that much without trying it first.
Does anyone know a UK supplier willing to sell shorter lengths of 3mm t-glass filament?
Thanks
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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Printing
Good luck.
I'm finding I have to fix something on a weekly basis.
Last week was my x-end like you.
Plus yhe olastic guides on the idlers, changed to metal washers now.
Today was the nozzle thermister.
Luckily I had a spare.
Seems you need a whole second printer for spares.
I've printed a spare set of plastics now.
Oh well, I like a chalange.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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Reprappers
Sounds like it was smilar to mine if I read the description right but on the other end.
The cable tie pulled the break together.
No glue and it was strong enough to replace the part.
I printed both ends just in case.
Maybe it will give you an idea to temporarily fix yours.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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Reprappers
If they are abs then ordinary superglue/crazy glue.
Some people use acetone I've heard.
Whatever glue you use strapping it up with cable ties can help with stremgth.
Sugru I recomended, which is available on the high street in the uk now, not sure about us. Is a self setting Plasticy rubber that ypu can use to build up arpund the x end to strengthen it.
It all depends where its broken.
On mine
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gordonendersby
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Reprappers
Have you had a go glueing them back together and reinforcing with cable ties?
Or maybe glue them and reinforce with sugru. Sugru.com
Had to cable tie mine back together when in a similar situation to you.
I managed to cable tie the broken one in such a way that i cojld print the replacement.
It doesnt have to look good. Just strong enough to do that important print.
If you have to cut it apart af
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gordonendersby
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Reprappers
Tried changing acceleration absalutely no improvement.
The lines looked the same even down to 3000.
No variation in the frequency of lines at all.
I tried the thinwall test and guess what, no vertical lines,
Today I noticed that the lines matched pretty much the infill pattern as id printed something at 15% infill. Id been printing most things at 40 - 50% up till then. But the vertical lines ma
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gordonendersby
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Printing
It looks like you are trying to print on the heater.
You need a bed on top of the heater to flatten the surface.
I have 20cm mirror tiles from ikea and use 8 clips to fix it to the heater.
2 on each side.
This levels it out and gives you a good surface to put your tape or whatever you are using to make the print stick.
Instead of bulldog clips im using the larger supaclips that you put on paper
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gordonendersby
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General
Thanks for the reply.
In the month since i posted this ive made progress with my printing.
It was really just down to getting everything tuned rather than just one thing.
Im getting there now.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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Printing
Thanks,
Yes, they are delaminating.
I dont know what temp they were printed at.
Im printing abs at 240c with bed at about 95c and the x end i printed did split a bit with ghe grain.
Ill experiment with higher temps on replacements and see how it goes.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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General
Dropper bottle and kitchen towel.
Drop some on the bed then dab with the towel.
The paper towel lasts quite a while.
I should imagine a spray bottle would gum up quite quickly.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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General
Excelent after all the knowledge and help ive got from the reprap project ive been able to give back and help someone.
You may need to still tune your motor drivers even if the fan stops them overheating.
They may not be working as efficiently as they can.
Loads of guides online on how to do it.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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Reprappers
Hi all,
Ive recently self built a Mendal prusa i2 from parts acquired from all over and reading the reprap wiki.
Most of these parts have been good quality for very little money.
I also bought a complete set of plastics through Ebay as at the time our makerspace was on the move
and everyone was just too busy to print me a set.
The parts were abs and looked good. Everything fitted as it should.
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gordonendersby
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General
These are my settings in marlin.
So I'll start on reducing the x and y values from 9000 first.
I'll use the thinwall test as its quick and the lines are pronounced.
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 5, 25} // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {9000,9000,100,10000}
#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 3000
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 3000
#define
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gordonendersby
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Printing
Yes the motor is on the carriage.
I haven't touched acceleration yet.
I'll give that a go.
The angle and light make it very pronounced.
I've just noticed as I'm printing spares, that the nuts on the z axis screws have a bit of slop
in the hex profile as they slip into the x ends. This must create a lot of backlash.
I'm going to have a go packing it out or gluing them in place.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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Printing
Ive used this lot a few times in the past.
Mainly for stuff for the m/cycle and cars but they have a very good range and are quick.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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General
My prints are generally getting better.
Nice sharp edges. Holes nice and round.
But what causes these vertical lines and what can I do about it to smooth out the vertical surfaces?
I have gt2 belts and z screw steadies.
Thanks
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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Printing
Its the wall thickness vale.
Ive got a 0.3mm nozzle.
If i use a thickness of 0.33mm i get one pass of the head on the wall.
If i use 0.66mm i get a double pass of the head so double thickness.
These values wer by experimentation.
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gordonendersby
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Printing
Maybe one of your motor drivers is overheating at that point.
Hence moving in one direction rather than in circles.
When you start again its cooled down.
When i first set mine up i used a cheap infra red thermometer to check the temp of the drivers heatsink.
Try adjusting the power or put a fan on the drivers, a desk fan would prove it.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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Reprappers
Thats reasuring.
I thought i was going to have to be really careful with it.
I may still store it in the airing cupboard between uses as its the driest place in the house.
And it will keep the welding supplies company.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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General
After putting out a new seeled spool of abs and finding the same print problem i finally went back over all of the settings in cura.
Some numpty had left 100% fill on. Id used it in an experiment on a small print last time.
I blame it on tiredness and stupidity.
So i hadnt set any other settings to take account for the extra density of the plastic.
So not the effect of moisture. Strange though t
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gordonendersby
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General
How long are we talking about for moisture to effect abs?
Many people leave a print running overnight so filament could be out for maybe 12 hours.
I left mine, attached and unsealed, for convenience over several days in a warm room in southern England.
It has been a fairly humid summer though.
It would be good to have a rough idea.
12, 24, 48 hours, how long is too long to leave it out.
We hav
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gordonendersby
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General
Ive just realised something as i was just reading the pictoral troubleshooting guide.
I did hear something that sounded like a pop or crack during extruding before i walked away and left it to it.
Could this be caused by moisture.
I havnt heard it before today.
If it is moisture can i dry it out?
Ive put it back in a sealec bag witn silica gel for now.
Im also going to try another abs filament to
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gordonendersby
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General
Hi guys,
Ive been leaving my filament out overnight between prints, both pla and abs.
Could i be getting moisture in the filament if ive left it out attached to the printer for 2 or 3 days?
Ive been getting better and better prints as i get it tuned.
Yesterday i did 2 really good prints of a wades extruder and the geared wheels.
Pin sharp edges, all the holes were round, good dimensions and the
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gordonendersby
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General
Im running the discount graphic lcd on my mendel i2 and it gives all the info you need.
Including current temperatures, target temperaturesand fan speed.
You get a status message at the bottom of the screen.
With messages like bed heating, printing as well as fault conditions if the temp sensors arnt working.
As well as printing from sd card with a menu of files on the card.
You can even tweak se
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gordonendersby
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General Mendel Topics
As per the link above the initial steps calibration is pretty straight forward.
Once youve done those you need to work through the calibration print objects to fine tune.
It may sound daunting but you can do it on your own if you take your time and read the documentation.
Change one thing at a time and test before moving on to the next.
Ive just been through it and now have a reasonably good pri
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gordonendersby
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Mechanics
Ive glued arduino boards to backing boards many times.
As long as everything is insulated, no part of the board is going to touch a conductor, youre fine.
Ive used velcro so they are removable and thick double sided pads many times to fix them in place for a project.
Not the most elegant of solutions but nothing wrong with it.
A slightl more elegant solution is some form of clip in frame or brac
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gordonendersby
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General
Ive built one from scratch just by reading the reprap wiki articles and posts on the forums. With help from google search.
In the UK ive used ebay a lot for parts but tried to stay away from the 3d print shops on there and used engineering suppliers for rods and bearings.
The 3d print shops add a bit extra in price if they label threaded rod specifically for 3d printing.
So engineering shops in I
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gordonendersby
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General