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Printing issues ...
Try to increase the motor current, what's more, the initial layer height is somewhat too far away from the bed
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
Hi, I got a mk2a heatbed dual power red colour type, I wanna know if there's any specific cable/wire that I have to use in order to solder the wire on to the heatbed. I currently have 16ga wire but I failed to solder it on to the metal contact of the heatbed because of my solder iron tip (pointed tip/fine tip) and a max of 40w is what I have. Currently finding the flat type for this one
Is there
by
sarf2k4
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Safety & Best Practices
Could you try check out your retract settings make sure the value aren't extreme value in your slicer software, also try to check your connections too the motor extruder wire to the board, make sure it is snuggle fit
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
Try increasing your step stick current by turning the little flat screw there, but do be careful on turning them as it is quite sensitive even if it's just 1 degree turn would mean about 100mV value difference, then check your step stick and motor's temperature by touching them, let it run at max of warm temperature
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
Closed chamber won't affect much on your prints though (correct me on this one) but will give a boost on heatbed heat up process
Electronics probably ramps or rambo, I never used rambo, I am using ramps 1.4 now, only issues is arduino didn't have much power from the psu and I need to hook external 5v supply through the usb port
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
Well, I am using geeetech 3d printer, although I already changed the extruder mount to my own type and usign genuine e3d v6 nozzle for 1.75mm filament
I bought mine from an agent and didn't expect to have some complications such as my coupler were too large to grip the threaded rod, lack of detailed assembly instruction from geeetech wiki
My electronic burnt also due to lack of detailed assembl
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
Can you connect it directly using the pronterface and control the printer movement? If it does, means the board is okay with the correct settings (hopefully), I'm assuming you're using the 20 x 4 lcd controller.
This lcd often referred as 2004 lcd controller or reprap discount lcd controller. Uncomment the line stating reprap discount controller.
Also not to forget to copy some other settings f
by
sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
There are a lot of factors can affect the printing speed, frame, frame material, frame design, motors, extruder design, calibration and other stuffs
What is your usual print speed?
Mine using slic3r at 60mm/s although at other part of the object it will become slower like outer perimeter and first layer
Higher speed will often gives you disaster in your finished product
by
sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
Did you stop the print midway for the picture above? 95% isn't like top/bottom solid infills though unless you're using 100%
by
sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
It is either the currents supplied from the step stick is insufficient or the tension is too strong on the extruder
by
sarf2k4
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Printing
Have you ever tried using marlin firmware with melzi board as the board type?
by
sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
I would rather buy newer board than using one that were blew/burn up before for my own safety
by
sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
First of all, could you tell us what board you're using and marlin version?
by
sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
I would recommend to add some kind of braces.
What you're trying to build is what would be called a "single frame" type here too
From what I observed, a lot of single frame prusa i3 owner often add braces linked from top of the main frame to the y axis rods using a long rods to make it look like box frame style (the one you would call "wings" at the sides)
Do correct me on adding the braces
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
I tried last night on wiring extra rail directly to my mega 2560, made no difference at all, I guess I just power it up from usb then, I'm using the cheap chinese ch340 ftdi chip type, so far it is okay, no problem arise
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sarf2k4
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Safety & Best Practices
Thank you in advance, so I gonna find mains wire to wire up the arduino mega directly from the psu, cause I have a wire about 0.5mm in diameter lying around, solid core what's more, but I somewhat worried that it might burn
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sarf2k4
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Safety & Best Practices
Thank you for your reply, now I don't have to wire my arduino to usb chargers, simply from the psu, I guess it was my first post in this thread ".... voltage divider from 12v to 5v..."
One last thing, any specific wire can be used? Thinking of using just a mere 26-24ga solid core wire
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sarf2k4
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Safety & Best Practices
probably several peltiers would do the trick
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sarf2k4
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General
Probably in your config.h; z min endstop triggered = false/true, do check this part
by
sarf2k4
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General
Hi, I am wondering for an alternative to this filament sensor , I understand that this one is a very cool little jig to have for your 3d printer at a premium price (in my place here)
What I have in mind is to rig a cheap digital caliper up to 2 decimal point in metric measurement and use the pinouts like this one .
A shorter one should be this one , I'm sure it has the same pinouts like any oth
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sarf2k4
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Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Quotedintid
You Can feed it 12v just fine. I've done it for the last year.
If you fint it gets too hot, you just ADD a fan to it.
Some People are always overcomplicating things and believes anyone actually knows what resistive voldtage dividers are, and also believes a link to datasheet is an answer to a question.
People should realize that the majority is not THAT much into Electronics an
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sarf2k4
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Safety & Best Practices
Hi, I got a spare a4988 stepstick that I never used, apparently the vmot pin solder are connected to the brown resistor(?) besides it and somewhat doubts if the step stick can be used again due to this. I tried to break the link but I'm unable to do it.
I'm sorry for such a newbie question, just want to avoid unwanted disaster in the future.
I tried to check on the diagrams, couldn't understan
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sarf2k4
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Safety & Best Practices
i used palm oil cooking oil to season my e3d, smell of the cooking oil being heat up and the object turned out to be same as well, no quality compromise
only that when I pulled the filament the oil also sticks to it, is this normal?
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sarf2k4
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General
I'm having this problem twice already and I suspecting my filament, in fact this is the second occurrence and the heatbreak along with the nozzle were cleaned with the acetone. Can a palm oil cooking oil be used to lube it or season it?
I also put a short teflon tube to protect my filament from being chipped away due to direct drive with mk8 extruder
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sarf2k4
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General
Thank you for pointing that out, I'm still wondering if there's anyone ever tried my code and see if it really works
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sarf2k4
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Robots!
Hi, I am wondering if peltier can be used for heated bed just like from this guy here . but what concerns me is that, how about the cold side that might pose a risk of condensation and how efficient peltier will be for 3d printer heated bed?
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sarf2k4
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General
Hi, I recently had a problem with my Arduino Robot here for the robotics competition last week. I'm unable to make the robot to switch between 2 modes. The main problems was that the Robot didn't really follow the lines whenever I put in the maze/wall navigation codes. Here is my code
All the issues were there and this Arduino Robot were given to us to be used during the competition
If anyone
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sarf2k4
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Robots!
Hi, I kinda interested in making this, but the Tslot or aluminum profile 2020 couldn't be found in my area, I wonder if I'm able to use a printed aluminum profile 2020 to be used for the frame?
I printed some aluminum profile 2020 that has about 75mm length using the zotrax's hips filament, pretty much durable but of course unlike the aluminum
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sarf2k4
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Tantillus
Hi, I'm wondering if tantilus can be built using aluminum profile 2020 and can someone point me to the right direction to the exact guide and parts list for tantilus that uses aluminum profile 2020?
Thank you in advance
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sarf2k4
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Tantillus
How about, writing a temporary gcode file, each line where it has been executed would be written the the temporary gcode file, but I'm concerned about the impact on performance later on.
And upon power resume or the power has recovered, the first thing to do is to check this file's final line, then compare with the original complete gcode and start midway of the complete gcode, use that as a poi
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sarf2k4
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General