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Printing issues ...
higher temp will make it worst, lower the speed would help, how big is the model, the smaller they are the worst it gets too
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deaconfrost
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Printing
did you set the baudrate in cura to 115200?
as above mentioned
What controller is on your printer?
by
deaconfrost
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Printing
extruder 1 is skipping again, anything over 25mm/s the motor will skip, no problem on extruder 2, happens usually on undo retraction on normal retract or tool switch
adjusting current on stepper driver makes no difference, is it the driver or the motor? it is even running on 1/8 stepping but it doesn't seems to be getting the torque.
by
deaconfrost
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Printing
are you using heated bed? how big is the model and what is the print speed?
by
deaconfrost
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Printing
I tho of that today actually that I forgot to add the gcode for second hotend, but been taking a break from it, will do that tomorrow, thanks for the reminder
by
deaconfrost
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Printing
one problem solved on the blob, now just why doesn't the printer turn on both heater on the hotend and just one??
by
deaconfrost
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Printing
another problem with this, when switching to extruder 2 it seems to extruder extra everytime but when switching back to extruder 1 it doesn't do that, this resulting a blob on every change to extruder 2
by
deaconfrost
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Printing
when printing using individual it all works well, but when I try to print the traffic cone in dual color, the second hotend doesn't heatup to print when it is suppose to
couldn't find anything on google
looked at repetier web site, I did everything just how it was shown on the video
I had to manual turn on the second heater and it all goes fine from there on
any idea???
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deaconfrost
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Printing
all sorted, how I missed the buadrate changed in the host... lol
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deaconfrost
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Printing
I see, I haven't try RRF yet so I don't know about that yet
I'm using the old A4988 still as I don't really need to upgrade them yet, one thing at a time
putting on the Chimera after I get the retract sorted today, its easier to rule out any issue when doing it one at a time
by
deaconfrost
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Controllers
QuoteAntscran
@bobc Great to see this under development again, been holding off buying a RAADS board which seem difficult and pricey to get hold off anyway.
its not too hard to get hold off but certainly is pricey, I paid £45 for mine, the genuine Arduino due cost me less than the RADDS, but its much better than the old ramps I had,
by
deaconfrost
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Controllers
think I found the line in configuration.h to change it from 40mm/s to 30mm/s
can't try it yet as I'm in the middle of a 3 hours print
by
deaconfrost
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Printing
Quoteshofman
Hi everyone,
About Z probe configuration : what is the maximum voltage that can accept the PWM3 pin ?
5V or 3.3 ?
And what is the minimum required current to have a good signal ? 1mA is it enough ?
I will use a capacitive sensor Ljc18a3-h-z/bx.
Thanks
I'm running capacitive sensor but I don't have z probe enable as I don't use ABL at the moment so I have my sensor power straight
by
deaconfrost
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Controllers
all was working perfect, and I swap over from Ramps 1.4 Mega2650 to Radds 1.5 Arduino Due (genuine not copy)
everything seems perfect on first flash except when retracting, extruder motor skip badly, no current changes from ramps to radds, had a look in the firmware max speed was 50mm/s on extruder so I reduced it to 25mm/s and it all seems good for printing except at the start of the print wher
by
deaconfrost
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Printing
problem solved, it was the extruder, the hole was a bit too wide, when added pressure on spring it bent the filament up and rolled in to the idler bearing and jammed at the extruder, replaced it with a spare which I have another 3 of them, first thing I spot was the filament feed after the hobbed bolt on all 3 spare ones I have are just enough for the 1.75mm to pass through where as the one I'm a
by
deaconfrost
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Printing
reducing steps didn't change anything other than under extrusion for me this is driving me nuts
by
deaconfrost
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Printing
mine also the same, its same time same place through the layers
by
deaconfrost
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Printing
giving that a try there PDbeal, I guess if a few steps is the issue, it wouldn't be too easily spotted when calibrating extrusion
by
deaconfrost
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Printing
my 2 glass went within a month, second glass had a massive chunk gone after first print, like PDBeal, it cools down and came off easily but with the chunk of glass together, not stuck
by
deaconfrost
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Printing
yea been setup for a year and measured with a gauge, steps are perfect, I been watching the extruder for over an hour, when it clicks, there is no skip on motor or gear, its the filament skip on the hobbed bolt. after that 6 hours print last night, I opened up the idler expecting to have some stripped filament, surprisingly there were none.
by
deaconfrost
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Printing
thanks lockezio
just place my hand on my steppers, they are fairly warm, but not hot, hopefully thats all it is, it has me scratching my head, it wouldn't be cause by the hotend for sure for me, as I'm running bowden, I can't imagine the steppers are skipping though, and I can see the gear running all the time while I hear the click and I can see the idler pop on the extruder, my y stepper and e
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deaconfrost
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Printing
it happened to me with 2 borosilicate glass from UK, I now no longer use glass nor a heatbed
by
deaconfrost
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Printing
I hear the click from the extruder, motor not skipping, its the filament popping on the hobbed bolt, tightening or loosing up the springs makes no changes, upping or lowering temp makes no changes, slowing down the print speed from 80mm/s by 25% while in print makes no difference either, I am using genuine e3d v6, I took it apart today, checked to see if there is any clogged, all was perfect, no
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deaconfrost
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Printing
if the motors are the same, same belt same pulley, then your firmware setting #define_AXIS_STEP_PER_UNIT (x,y,z,e) is wrong
by
deaconfrost
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Printing
QuoteWurstnase
Quotedeaconfrost
Quotewurstnase
Quotedeaconfrost
what do you mean by messy? the code itself or the numbers of dev on it??
I only took a look inside the stepper.cpp. This is not maintainable anymore.
thats not good
Maybe a bit harsh. Kimbra should be able to read the code.
I might give it a try sometime, keeping track on how RRF progress here and I think I stick with repetier f
by
deaconfrost
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Controllers
QuoteWurstnase
Quotedeaconfrost
QuoteWurstnase
Quotedeaconfrost
anyone familiar with this?
MarlinKimbra4due
Yes. Become really messy.
what do you mean by messy? the code itself or the numbers of dev on it??
I only took a look inside the stepper.cpp. This is not maintainable anymore.
thats not good
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deaconfrost
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Controllers
QuoteWurstnase
Quotedeaconfrost
anyone familiar with this?
MarlinKimbra4due
Yes. Become really messy. I made the optimization for DRV8825. But you can't do the same in RRF. Marlin4Due reaches 100kHz in Single-Stepping. With that you can start a step before the calculations and end the steps after them. Afaik RRF doing something like that, but the calculations are much more expensive there and y
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deaconfrost
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Controllers
anyone familiar with this?
MarlinKimbra4due
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deaconfrost
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Controllers
my folgertech i3 has exactly the same problem, I replaced the motor to motech 48mm and its working fine ever since, the stock motor runs hot no matter the voltage, all the 48mm nema 17 I run barely even gets warm let alone hot
put it simple, everything been replaced except the z motors which gets warmer than the x y motors I replaced and they barely move much and PSU which soon be replaced, it d
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deaconfrost
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Printing
does the RADDS board works with mega2560? just wondering, got the RADDS delivered but waiting for the DUE
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deaconfrost
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Controllers