Show all posts by user
Printing issues ...
Re: RADDS work now stable with RepRap Firmware - 8 years ago
That's great, have them ordered waiting for delivery should be in a couple daysby deaconfrost - Controllers
Re: Heatbed is it necessary - 8 years ago
Printing a Chimera mount with capacitive sensor mount, the over hang is a little bit messy underneath but no warping otherwise, tiny lift at corners after removing the brim no major lifting off the bed , so far so good. Print setting 250c 100 micron 80mm/s 60% infill 0.2mm first layer 20mm/s 15mm brim, could have done with less by the looks of it but I went 15 just be on the safe side an enby deaconfrost - Printing
Re: Fastbot - 8 years ago
I just went with Radds instead, they don't seem to even replying to anyone on their facebook pafeby deaconfrost - Controllers
Re: RADDS work now stable with RepRap Firmware - 8 years ago
I'm about to order the Radds with Due and LCD together do I need to plug in power to the Due like the mega on ramps? or does Radds provides power to the Due, or can it be wired up to the Radds for power, so one plug in the mains?by deaconfrost - Controllers
Re: RADDS work now stable with RepRap Firmware - 8 years ago
Quotednewman Quotedeaconfrost the user guide says to power RADDS by 24V the diode used in the default 12V setup have to be replaced by three Zener diodes (4 V and 1.3W). is 4.3v 1.3w ok? Somewhere you should also find amongst the RADDS documents that you do not need to do that for the v1.5 RADDS electronics. That's my recollection at least. I use 25V with my v1.5 boards and I've never made thaby deaconfrost - Controllers
Re: RADDS work now stable with RepRap Firmware - 8 years ago
the user guide says to power RADDS by 24V the diode used in the default 12V setup have to be replaced by three Zener diodes (4 V and 1.3W). is 4.3v 1.3w ok?by deaconfrost - Controllers
Re: Diamond Hotend Multi Material - 8 years ago
PVA seems to print in similar temp as PLA, I will give that a try when I get the diamond setup and dialed in, I mixed 3 mountings in to one piece for the diamond to mount on an i3 if anyone interested Diamond Hotend mount with capacitive sensor mount and fan duct all in 1 for Prusa i3by deaconfrost - Printing
Re: Heatbed is it necessary - 8 years ago
I trid a 30mm with 20% infill, and used 5mm brim, no problem, I've sent the plate back for replacement as only one side is flat, I will try make bigger part when I get the replacement back inby deaconfrost - Printing
Diamond Hotend Multi Material - 8 years ago
anyone using Diamond Hotend with different material other than just multi color? in theory it should be no problem, since on color change without mixing is done, material change without mixing should be ok by the looks of things I'm looking to be able to use PVA in one extruder for supports and the others for the actual modelby deaconfrost - Printing
Re: Heatbed is it necessary - 8 years ago
heatbed is not needed, this is my i3 I tested this with ABS, PLA and PETG I printed ABS at 220c nozzle temp and it was the best ABS test print I ever hadby deaconfrost - Printing
Re: May the Foam be with you. - 8 years ago
May the chopping board be with you lol it worked I just need to sand the whole thing down and evenly flat then I can try bigger partsby deaconfrost - Printing
Re: May the Foam be with you. - 8 years ago
I went out and bought a chopping board, and currently print PLA on it cold it needs to be a smooth surface, not the rough ones the chopping board cost 5.99 in euro so about 8 dollars?? I've no idea what polymer it is, as I couldn't find and info about it but I don't think its polyethyleneby deaconfrost - Printing
Re: May the Foam be with you. - 8 years ago
I got it from here but I think I will return it for a refund, because it seems to me it is just high density polyethylene chopping board, in that case I can buy them far cheaper and feel like I been scamby deaconfrost - Printing
Re: May the Foam be with you. - 8 years ago
check this out ABS no heat bed I broke it trying to take it off, but I didn't actually give it time after print was finished and its hollow with only 0.8mm bottom which wouldn't help eitherby deaconfrost - Printing
Re: what speed does this looks to be printing? - 8 years ago
its nice to reduce print time on small layers, was just playing around for a bit of hope and turns out fairly ok playing with ABS now but highly doubtful to do anything high speed with that but printed very well ABSby deaconfrost - Printing
Re: another ABS print question - 8 years ago
second print is much better but I broke the bottom of the cube trying to get it offby deaconfrost - Printing
another ABS print question - 8 years ago
I'm thinking this is due to I haven't put the printer in an enclosure after I move house, and a bit too fast maybe perfect first layer, others not so much, but over all its smooth perfect first layer no liftby deaconfrost - Printing
Re: what speed does this looks to be printing? - 8 years ago
Thanks for the reply, before I start the print I did change acceleration in marlin to 5000 max and max flow 20. But even if that was only doing 240 is still much better than the usual 60 to 80 for an i3. I do a bit more playing around again next week and see what's the fastest I can go, it's more so at smaller layer height I want to be able to increase the speed so the print time doesn't go throuby deaconfrost - Printing
Re: ABS warping, what am I doing wrong?
- 8 years ago
extrusion width I meant for the first layer it puts the lines down a bit wider and still flatten it at the same height, I have mine set up 200% for ABS 180% for PET and 150% for PLA my first layer height is 0.3mm Here's my first layer with pla its all trial and error, try different settings and adjust if needed to get your desire resultby deaconfrost - Printing
Re: ABS warping, what am I doing wrong? - 8 years ago
give a bit more layer width on first layer will even it out, thats what I do with mine, whats your top and bottom thickness? thats a much better print alreadyby deaconfrost - Printing
Re: ABS warping, what am I doing wrong? - 8 years ago
Hope you have more success on your next abs printby deaconfrost - Printing
Re: ABS warping, what am I doing wrong? - 8 years ago
Definitely not enough heat on the bed, it's recommended 100c plus for abs, give that a try and see if it improves, and turn off print fan or reduce to below 50% fan speed but no fan for first 20 to 30 layers for sure. Because abs shrinkage is very bad when it gets cool down to quickly, most people print with no fan on, I use 30% to 40% after about 20 layers or so but only when I have my printer eby deaconfrost - Printing
Re: Help please with E3d v6 clone jam symptoms - 8 years ago
Maybe a cheap option is to get a heatbreak and nozzle from E3D? If they will fitby deaconfrost - Printing
Re: ABS warping, what am I doing wrong? - 8 years ago
Abs is very easy to warp from the bed. Best thing is use abs juice or wolfbite, are you running a heated bed? I been tackling abs for almost a year now as well and about 2mm on each corner warping from bed is the best I got so far with only pva glue and bed at 110c, I did however got a couple prints with no warp on krapton tape enclosed build chamber and bed at 120cby deaconfrost - Printing
Re: First print issues - 8 years ago
Certainly wouldn't be any better without fan I imagine.by deaconfrost - Printing
Re: RepRap Speakers - 8 years ago
Anything going on in Ireland? Reprap seems very quiet over this areaby deaconfrost - General
Re: First print issues - 8 years ago
Is it pla you printing? What temp is the bed running on print and have you a fan running? I notice mine was like that on one side but perfect on the other side, first I suspected was the fan duct not blowing at some part of the model, and it turns out that was the case, resulting one side of warmer than the other, making that side of the model softer and curl up resulting a delamination effect,by deaconfrost - Printing
Re: print head is lifting 5mm - 8 years ago
Are you running autobed leveling? Which version of marlin are you running? It could be to do with the firmware settingsby deaconfrost - Printing