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I have read that thread. Correct me if I'm wrong but that thread seems to deal with "random" freezing/disconnecting... Mine happens with very particular actions.
No I am not trying to recover the print.
-nick
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N314
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General
Hi-
This is a very annoying occurrence for me.
Here is what happened:
I was printing a scaled up twisted bottle. It was a ~4 hour print, i was 3.5 hours in. All the light were off in my room and I was downstairs. I went up to check on it.
I could hear it printing.
As I walked into my room I hit the light switch... well, I accidentally hit the switch for my ceiling fan.
The printer stopped.
Thi
by
N314
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General
I do know there are a few varieties of blue tape, with different "Finishes". Is it the tape itself that makes the adhesion, or the semi-rough surface of it?
-Nick
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N314
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If you are making a model to share, build it as its final state will be, let the builder/printer operator worry about the support.
-Nick
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N314
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Go on E bay for printed parts, Ultimachine.com for everything else.
by
N314
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General
Ive tried hairspray. It was Dove somthing, idk if other kinds might work.
The reason I dont want to do a heat bed is mainly cost, time (Busy with school), and I would also need a new power supply.
-Nick
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N314
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Where can one get PVA glue (in the US)?
-Nick
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N314
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I have a glass build plate that i have blue tape on. The tape leaves a somewhat messy look to the bottom.
Are there any treatments you can give unheated glass? I dont want to add a heated build plate.
-Nick
EDIT: I am printing PLA at 188 degrees C
by
N314
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General
Any Specific design that works well?
-Nick
by
N314
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Ive played with the idea of a dual extruder in my head for a while.
Is there a certain design for a dual extruder, or is it just two strapped to each other?
-Nick
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N314
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Look at the current to the steppers (the pot on the drivers) and adjust it. On my prusa I have an old CPU heatsing sitting on the X,Y, and Z drivers to keep them cool. If they get hot they can skip.
-Nick
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N314
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Well why didn't they say this about milling machines... those could make a far better weapon.
-Nick
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N314
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Ok...
Now measure 100mm of filament, mark it with a sharpie.
tell it to extrude 100mm at 20mm/s. How much actually is extruded?
-Nick
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N314
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Please run this test for me.
Warm up your hotend.
In Pronterface, set the mm/s for the extruder to about 20~30.
Extrude some filament. What happens?
-Nick
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N314
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It is hard to tell how fast it is going with out seeing it, could you post a video?
One thing that could be the problem is your idler is too loose, it might not be applying enough pressure to the filament so that the hobbed bolt can grip it.
-Nick
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N314
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Hi-
My machine used to have a lot of Z wobble. I tightened down the Z steppers, and added Z contraints which improved it a lot.
There is however, still a little bit left. I have a file of a recent print attached.
What else can I do to make it perfect?
-Nick
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N314
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Wait... 24 Volts? I dont think RAMPS does that, dosent RAMPS run 12V?
-Nick
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N314
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What thermistor/Temp sensor are you using?
-Nick
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N314
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Be sure you don't have the extruder speed set too high.
-Nick
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N314
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fredted1234 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Ok well this error keeps coming up! I don't
> understand the hot end doesn't heat up. Or the
> heat bed..
>
> Printer stopped deu to errors. Fix the error and
> use M999 to restart!. (Temperature is reset. Set
> it before restarting)
> Reply Quote
>
> Has anyone ever got this error?
Yes I
by
N314
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Hi-
I use slic3r (9.2), and I want to add Gcode at the end of the file that tell it to take the Y axis to 190mm and raise the Z axis by 10mm. \
I know there's a custom Gcode section, but what do I enter?
How can I do this or is it even possible?
-Nick
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N314
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@Igor
Hi-
I own a Prusa.
Having looked at it I can conceive making all the rods longer to scale the entire design. Then you would modify the software to fit, which it sounds like you can do.
The source I used for all my hardware wasUltimachine. You can buy all the parts without the electronics (except for printed parts).
-Nick
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N314
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Wow... It worked.Thats great.
Thank you so much!
-Nick
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N314
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Tried... Cant figure out how
by
N314
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Hi-
I have printed almost every part to this. The "Gear4" stl is corrupt and will not slice correctly. Can someone please fix the file? I would be very grateful. I dont know how to fix an stl.
Thanks,
-Nick
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N314
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Maybe using blue tape and Generating a brim to hold it down and prevent warping...?
-Nick
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N314
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Yeah chances are I wouldn't be able to do that.
The reason I ask is because my engineering teacher has a 30K dimension FDM printer (well the school owns it)... and I think it would be a fun moment if I could print something close to that quality (especially threads), with a $500 DIY machine.
-Nick
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N314
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I realize there are models ot there that use threads, but I want to know how fine of threads, if any, that I can do with a .35mm nozzle on a Prusa.
-Nick
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N314
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Threads - 11 years ago
Hi-
Ive been tuning my printer lately. Im shooting for being able to print working threads. Is it even possible to print threads of a RepRap, or realistic?
Prusa with .35mm nozzle.
-Nick
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N314
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