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Well, maybe I am the only one experiencing this, which means it is probably not slic3r but my setup.
If I slice in 091 all good in regards to layer hight.
If I slice same file in 092 with same settings the printer starts by moving slowly to 0.0.0 then it lifts straight up what occurs to be 0.8mm and stays there during print. Unusable.
If I change my lift setting to 0 it does not do this behavior,
by
IceMan
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Slic3r
Hi,
Just downloaded 092 version and I think there is a bug.
When starting first layer it appears as the lift value is added to the layer height.
In my case I use 0.2 layer height it adds my 0.6 lift to it making layer height 0.8.
Anyone can confirm?
Regards
Jan
by
IceMan
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Slic3r
Hi,
I have built 2 printers using nema 23's and ramps/arduino to drive it. Works well.
Regards
Jan
by
IceMan
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Reprappers
Hi all,
I really enjoy this segment. Just to see how well some of you can print with your machines. Anyway, everytime I look at a file I run it through netfabb to check it for errors and this file (the lamp) comes up with errors as well. Do you ignore these and just print the object or do you have other ways you fix the errors with, as I can not clean it up using netfabb?
Regards
Jan
by
IceMan
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Competitions
Try 091,
I have checked those settings and it makes no difference.
If 091 does do any infill at all for this file (the squere frame), then it does do it paralell to the outline for this file. The frame is made up of only parallell lines, top to bottom. Squares inside squares. It is a fast way of printing, but the part falls apart. 072 does it fine (same settings)
Regards
Jan
by
IceMan
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Slic3r
Just did a comparison between slic3r 0.8.4 and 0.9.1, notice the large gap in the middle of first layer in version 0.9.1
I looks like 0.9.1 does some infill as lines parallell to the perimeters. Have looked at a file (squere frame) 100x100x3 and 5mm high. And the fill runs parallell with the perimeters all the way to the top. In older versions the fill is "zigzagging".
I may have missed something
by
IceMan
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Slic3r
Hi, I am having exactly the same problem with slic3r at the moment. If I slice a file in kisslicer it works fine but with slic3r it does not bond the 2 outside perimeters together. Let say I try to print a 50mm dia ring with 3mm thick walls, it will print the outside perimeters and the inside perimeters just fine, but a minute gap is left in the middle. It looks like the fill is going the same wa
by
IceMan
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Slic3r
Have a look here.
by
IceMan
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General
Hi,
In regards to the driver installation, windows does not install the drivers for the Arduino board automatically. If the window with found new hardware pops up you need to point to the drivers in the correct place.On my machine they are here : C:\Program Files\Arduino 0023\drivers
There is some info on the Arduino site regarding this.
Very important as the Arduino will not work without the co
by
IceMan
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RAMPS Electronics
khaiz21 Wrote:
> #define min_software_endstops false //If true,
> axis won't move to coordinates less than
> HOME_POS.
> #define max_software_endstops true //If true,
> axis won't move to coordinates greater than the
> defined lengths below.
> // Travel limits after homing
> #define X_MAX_POS 205
> #define X_MIN_POS -200
> #define Y_MAX_POS 205
> #define Y_MIN_P
by
IceMan
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General
Hi,
Well, I think the water cooling is probably a better way. I have not tried any of them but the peltier uses a lot of power (if it does work), it also most likely require a heatsink attached to it. The power rating is 60W max on the one you link to, that is 5A at 12V. Introducing another 5A to your power supply may effect how well it works with the rest of your setup, bed and heater block.
by
IceMan
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General
Try a cooling fan when printing the smaller bits......
The bottom looks quite good, so the layer hight looks ok to me.
Are you printing each part completely before moving on to next part? (just looking at the difference between the parts)
If so, the extruded plastic may not get time to cool between layers, cooling fan should fix that.
You say you have a cooling time at 25sec, does the extruder s
by
IceMan
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Printing
Hi royco,
That looks quite good. Very good indeed . With the SD card reader, I think built in is fine but, if you build a printer and would like to have a control panel with maybe an LCD screen etc, then I think it is important to be able to place the SD card reader/slot independantly of the controller board. Any chance it could also be possible to connect an SD card reader using a plug and cab
by
IceMan
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General
3dFan Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> 123D is quite frankly morbidly obese, I don't
> think I even have enough room on my computer to
> install it, let alone run it. I bet it's probably
> really slow and laggy in operation too.
Yes it does require a fast machine, but it is quite good, and currently free. I don't like what they did to beta9 though, the
by
IceMan
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3D Design tools
Hi Gedom,
I made my own printer from scratch using whatever I had, based on the Wolfstrap design. I made my own extruder and hot end as well. It has been working fine. It makes quite nice prints but it is very, very slow as I am using threaded rods and slide rails (drawer rails). I am currently using it to make parts for my next printer. A part like the large gear for the wades extruder takes ab
by
IceMan
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Developers
Hi,
I only print with ABS and use heated bed, glass and kapton tape. Works well as stated by others. Always looking for a way of making it simpler but so far not much luck. I thought I had a good idea the other day but unfortunaltely I have to say it was just a good thought at the time. Hairspray! Yes, hairspray used all over the world, cheap and easy to get. It is easy to apply to glass and stic
by
IceMan
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General
epareja Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> What type of silicone? The white one that is used
> for transistors and electronics? Yust to be clear
> because I'm not from USA: alfoil = aluminuim
> foil?
>
> Thank you
Hi, yes normal aluminium foil used for food etc.
The silicone is the one shown on my site.
Regards
Jan
by
IceMan
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General
Hi,
I use alfoil to make a tight fit and then silicone at the ends. Has been working fine since day one.
Makes it easy to replace the resistor/s if needed.
Cheers
Jan
Look Here
by
IceMan
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General
Hi Thomas,
Don't know how your first layer is, but squashing it a bit down onto the table will make a good foundation for your next layers.
For example,if you print layers at 0.3 then try to adjust the starting layer to about 0.15. That will give a good adhesion.
Also you say that you extrude ABS at 270 degrees, that is way too hot if that temp is correct. It should be around 230 and the bed shou
by
IceMan
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Printing
Hi,
You say you have printed the parts ok before. Are you trying to print the same g-code as before or have you made new g-code files using a newer version of slic3r? Just curious.
Regards
Jan
by
IceMan
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Printing
Hi se5a,
I am not surprised it did not work. 20mm ptfe is way too big, 10mm is what I use. With 20mm there is way too much PTFE between the brass nozzle and the outside of the PTFE. It goes soft and there will be no grip.
I am still using my hot end, not failed once on me, but remember I dont print at the speeds "normal" printers do. Threaded rods makes it slow.
If you are going to use my method
by
IceMan
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General
Hi again,
Have done some mods to the design and have successfully extruded at 80 to 100mm/min in pronterface whithout any problems with the hot end.
My poor wooden extruder is struggling, so I need to get my next printer done, so I can play on same playing fields as the rest of you. Get some proper extruder etc...
I even tried at 150mm/min and it worked but I had to help feeding my extruder with
by
IceMan
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General
STOP THE PRESS!
Compulsary modification needed to my hotend.
The seal is still going strong and I am printing.
The middle copper pipe needs to go approx 2mm below the PTFE. Cut some slots and bend in to make a flange/finger grip.
Just making one now to test.
Will post photos asap
ATTENTION ALL!
Just made another unit and tested,
On my printer I have no issues.
I increase the extruding speed it
by
IceMan
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General
evilb Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Jan, did you measure the cooling tube temperature
> by any chance?
> Interesting concept, for the first time i have the
> feeling i could do a hotend myself. I'm tempted to
> do it, i now have an arcol hotend v3 wired with
> steel wire to my x carriage, losing a lot of
> z-height in the process.
>
>
by
IceMan
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General
nophead Wrote:
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> Rather than simple grooves it might be better to
> file barbs like these:
>
> nnectors
Hi nophead,
Yes, that may even work better, especially at the assembly process.
It may be a bit tricky to file though if you want to keep the brass small, but very good idea, might give it a try.
By the way, thanks for your
by
IceMan
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General
se5a Wrote:
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> if you want to test for strength, try extruding
> cold for a bit.
> then try printing onto of layers that have had too
> much fill. (so the hotend gets dragged through the
> layer below, which will cause it to flex side to
> side)
> if it can survive the above then I think you've
> won the prize for the
by
IceMan
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General
destroyer2012 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I really like your method though I think I'm going
> to try making an ultimaker nozzle with your groove
> seal technique
Yes, go for it. There is always room for improvements. If you combine the good from several ideas you may come up with the "perfect" hotend.
I am still printing almost day and night with m
by
IceMan
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General
Hi,
I started on this journey not too long before christmas, and when I read ahklut post I almost thought I was reading my own thoughts for a moment.
I went down the path of making my own machine as well. Based on the wolfstrap. I knew nothing so I went this way to "force" myself to do research and learn something new. And do I have fun?...oh yeah. Not a day goes by without thinking of something
by
IceMan
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General
destroyer2012 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Tbh I didn't try too hard to get the seal tight I
> just twisted the acorn nut HARD into the barrel
> (like, I held the barrel with pliers and torqued
> the nut a lot to try to get the brass to seal
> itself). I also used a nicrome and jb weld heating
> element and slathered the jb weld all over the
&
by
IceMan
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General
Page 4 of 5
Pages: 12345