The best method I have found for consistent adhesion is to put a layer or 2 of glue onto the glass before you print with a glue stic. The brand I use is below but I am sure other brands would work the same.by RyanMark - Mendel90
It should blow air onto the hotend, maybe double check the manual to make sure you installed it the correct way.by RyanMark - Mendel90
Nophead (Chris) will print and send you a spare, Just send him an email. I believe he is located somewhere in the UK. Cheers,by RyanMark - Mendel90
The test was used to "rank" a bunch of 3D printers and their slicer settings printed out of the box. Make magazine does a "ranking" every year. Doing the tests let you compare to other printers and their slicer settings. Most of the test have to do with slicer settings (First 5 tests) but a few have to do with the actually printer (# 6 & 7 are resonance tests xy and z). I don't think it woulby RyanMark - Mendel90
@neildarlow The test represents how much clearance (Or negative space) your printer needs for parts to not stick together. In my case I was able to remove all of the pegs except the one with a 0.2mm radial clearance. I am using Skeinforge with slightly modified settings from Nopheads original settings they can be found here I tried modifying the perimeter flow rate to 0.5 and still wan't ableby RyanMark - Mendel90
I was able to pass all of the Make 2015 test pieces with the exception of the negative space tolerances. See pictures and settings for test below: Does anyone have and advice on how to achieve a higher accuracy on negative spaces? Cheers,by RyanMark - Mendel90
You will need to change the height over layer thickness in the bottom tab You will need to change the the object first layer settings in the speed tabby RyanMark - Mendel90
Your squirrel looks really good, I am glad the profiles worked for you. Thanks for sharing.by RyanMark - Mendel90
@BSBMX - If you wouldn't mind posting some pictures if you end up using the profiles, that would be swell.by RyanMark - Mendel90
The gears in the kit are ABS, you can print the gears in PLA though. The only things you may not want to print in PLA are the wades block, x carriage and fan (ie, anything that is close to the hotend).by RyanMark - Mendel90
@ probonic, yes I did notice the 0.05mm is a bit rougher then the other layer heights and I would guess when the filament is pushed out at such a small flow rate small deviations in the filament cause the roughness but I could be wrong. Printing the infill at higher layer heights and the perimeters at lower layer heights would help with this but Skeinforge doesn't have that capability. With the 0by RyanMark - Mendel90
Attached are the two lower layer height settings calibrated for a 0.35mm nozzle. I can't test these as I don't have that size of nozzle but I am fairly confident they should work. Make sure you use a calibration cube as a test. Note: -The bottom layer is set to a layer height of 0.25mm because of the smaller nozzle size - Most other points referenced for the previous settings are applied. If yoby RyanMark - Mendel90
The settings are for a 0.4mm Jhead. I will maybe upload a 0.05mm profile for a 0.35mm Jhead later in the week but I can't verify it will work.by RyanMark - Mendel90
After almost a year of printing, I thought I would give back to the community and provide my Calibrated & Tuned Skeinforge Profiles for the Mendel90 kit. The profiles include 2 smaller layer heights of 0.1 mm & 0.05mm. Additional pictures of prints using the profiles can be found at the below link: (with the exception of the 0.25mm profile) Difference from Nopheads Profiles - Jittby RyanMark - Mendel90
Good overhangs more than 45deg are harder to achieve but they are possible. You can try lowering temperature by 10C which should help, and using a high end filament will also help (Colorfabb). Cheers,by RyanMark - Mendel90
When you print overhangs, you need to have more than 1 perimeter. For steep overhangs I usually use 3 perimeters, this should help prevent the previous layer from curling up. Lower layer heights also help with overhangs. The strings you are talking about are probably from retraction or too much filament being extruded. Make sure you calibrate your E-steps and measure your filament diameter at aby RyanMark - Mendel90
It looks to be an overhang problem. A couple questions; What material is it PLA or ABS? Is the fan on 100% speed during the print? How many perimeters are you printing with?by RyanMark - Mendel90
Would anyone be willing to share their Calibrated/Tuned/Tested Slic3r (config file) settings for their Dibond Mendel90 with the community? Providing some prints that used the settings would also be appreciated. The community and myself would be forever grateful.by RyanMark - Mendel90
It's possible you may need to enable cold extrusion in the Gcode. To do that you type in M302 in pronterface. I also believe you need to have the hotend connected for the printer to work.by RyanMark - Mendel90
- Get a model of a solid box (ie 20mm calibration cube) - In the fill tab make sure the perimeter settings are all 0 and the fill % is 0 - Turn off the solid layers for the top and bottom layer - Turn off infill in direction of bridge This should give you a single walled box (These settings are also good for making Vases with skeinforge although I usually keep the solid layers on and remove theby RyanMark - Mendel90
What do you exactly mean by the word "Rapids"? If you mean when it moves from part to part without printing, you can slow that down in skeinforge in the speed tab. You could also use the "lift" tab to lift the nozzle between moves but this usually isn't used unless the parts have only a small surface area contacting the bed and the nozzle has the potential to knock them off.by RyanMark - Mendel90
If your layer height was 0.3mm and the skirt height was 0.22mm it means your z height isn't quite calibrated. So in your firmware you will need to raise the z height by 0.08mm. Your skirt should be 0.3mm. To see if your bed is level print something big but stop the print after the skirt has been printed and measure the skirt to see if it's the same height throughout. Cheers,by RyanMark - Mendel90
Yes, if you print something larger and measure the skirt you can check if you bed is level and your z height is correct. If the skirt is consistently the same dimension then your bed is level and if the height of the skirt is the same as your slicer height then you know your z height has been calibrated correctly.by RyanMark - Mendel90
I added the sewing oil and it lessened the squeaking, so it does do something.by RyanMark - Mendel90
What grease type is recommended to apply to LM8UU's (They are developing louder squeaks)? I have Lithium grease and Sewing machine oil, would either of these work?by RyanMark - Mendel90
Take a look at these two sites, which show prints with very small layer thicknesses 0.02mm and 0.04mm.by RyanMark - General
You shouldn't turn on the fan for the first layer. If the object has lots of small tricky geometry slowing down the first layer even more than 50% (Standard Gcode settings) helps. Raising the bed temp to 80C probably won't help 75C is adequate. The hotend temp may need to be hotter for the first layer for certain PLAs but if it's the green PLA that comes with the kit you won't need to raise the tby RyanMark - Mendel90
I purchased this terminal block to replace the melted one on my Melzi. Could someone verify that it will be an adequate replacement for the PSU connection on the Melzi before I solder it on. The specs are below: Rated Current: 16A Rated Voltage: 300V AC Contact resistance: 20mΩ Insulation Resistance: 5000mΩ / 1000V Withstanding Voltage: AC1500V / 1min Wire Range: 14-22A WG / 2.5mm Poles: 2P Pby RyanMark - Mendel90
I seem to have had the identical problem as Traveltrousers unfortunately. Does anyone know where to buy this type of terminal block in North America? (Preferably Canada) As I have only been able to find them from China or the UK.by RyanMark - Mendel90