I've struggled with my Z end stop for a while, and then finally have given up... The micro switch I used for Z end stop was initially "tied" to the vertical frame (I have Prusa i3) using a zip-tie. I later bolted it firmly to the frame using a couple of small screws and nuts. However, it didn't help much. I used another screw installed on the X idler, which is what pushes the switch - I canby Yamster - General
So, the lesson learned here is: 1. It is common for ABS gears to produce dust from grinding 2. I should lubricate the ABS gears with lithium grease to make it last longer As I said, one of my gears (smaller one) is made of ABS and the other one is made of PLA. Would lithium grease have any negative/undesired effect on PLA?by Yamster - Reprappers
Hello, I've started using a new extruder - one of the Greg's Wade extruder variations - on my printer a couple of days ago. So, this is the second set of extruder I've used/am using. The first one was made by someone else using ABS. I printed this new one myself, used ABS on the motor mount - in case the motor got too hot - and also used ABS for the small gear. The big gear is printed withby Yamster - Reprappers
I used to have 6.8 ohm 3w heater resistor in the hot end I currenlty use. I now have a 40w ceramic heater in it. The difference? Actually, I have not noticed any. I think 40W resister must heat up the hot end more quickly, but I never had any problem with quickly reaching to the needed temperarue with 3W resistor, either. The hot end reaches to the operating temperature long before the heaby Yamster - RAMPS Electronics
This may sound like a dumb question... but are you trying to move the extruder motor by hitting "Extrude" button when the hot end is not heated up by any chance? If I try to do that, the following message comes up in the Pronterface message window: "echo: cold extrusion prevented"by Yamster - RAMPS Electronics
Man, it's so funny... Only after you mentioned it, I can see that label saying "PS-ON". LOL Yeah, it's sandwitched in between to switches, but it's hard to believe that I missed it. Thank you for your help!by Yamster - RAMPS Electronics
Are there any service providers, to whom I can send my used PLA/ABS plastics (failed printouts, calibration pieces, and etc) and get them back in filament form? Saving filament cost by doing that sure would be great, but even if the amount of the saving is moderate (or even none) it would make me feel good recycling something. I produce quite a bit of waste - I hope the situation gets betterby Yamster - General
Hello, Here is my second question of the day. Is there any way to turn off LCD display? I know some people prefer printing off SD card, to eliminiate another point of failure (PC). However, I just like controlling things from my computure, so I always have my PC connected to the RAMPS on my printer via USB. One thing I don't like about this setup is that even when the PSU is turned off, theby Yamster - RAMPS Electronics
Hello, I would to like to connect the PS ON/green wire to my RAMPS1.4, so that I can programmatically switch on/off ATX PSU using M80 and M81 commands. All the instructions I could find simply mention that I should connect the green wire to the pin "next to the reset switch". Well, that sounds easy enough, but I am still not 100% sure what to do and how to do it. I took a picture of my RAMP1.by Yamster - RAMPS Electronics
That's good to know. I mean, it's not good that the brass nozzle will conteminate the print out, but it's good to be aware of it. Btw, isn' t brass alloy of copper and zinc? There are even musical instruments which are made of brass (or at least they are called "brass") and those are the type of instrument into which the player blows air with her/his mouth... I haven't heard of anyone who gotby Yamster - Reprappers
Are there any food grade ABS or PLA? By food grade, I mean safe to use as a food container or stencils. We have a couple of glass food containers of which the rubber cap is torn on its side. It will be a great opportunity for me to prove my wife I can make sometime useful with my 3D printer (finally). So, on top of being food grade, it will be ideal if the material is flexible and transparentby Yamster - Reprappers
You should check the RepRap Wiki page for J Head - They not only have part listings (and a bunch of other useful and interesting info such as history, new experimental versions, and etc) but they also often have a suppliers link for those parts - with a part/catalog number! - as well. I really like that b/c that not only makes it easy to find a seller, but I can be sure that I'm getting a rightby Yamster - Reprappers
I wasn't quite able to turn my "want" into a "need", but I asked my wife to chip in to my 3D printer purchase as father's day gift. Yes, just to chip in.. not buying me one. Of course I also did a little bit of sales work telling her what kind of practical things I could print, like a small broken plastic piece of something I can print a replacement part of, and things like that. But, now I kby Yamster - Reprappers
rapsac Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Uhm, the torque the motors produce is only related > to the CURRENT through the motors, not by the > voltage. Wouldn't that be only true when the voltage is fixed/constant? In other words, for a given voltage, we will obviously get more torque with more current and less torque with less current. I have to admit Iby Yamster - Reprappers
Hello, I'm trying to print X carriage and X end for my Prusa i3 printer. I bought a kit from MakerFarm and it uses laser cut wood instead of printed parts, except for the extruder. I did not like the fact that the extruder motor is protruded far to the front (away from X rods), which amplifies the vibration of the extruder and hot end, especially when printing honeycomb infill pattern. So, Iby Yamster - General Mendel Topics
I had the same problem. For the hot end fan, I didn't mind it running all the time, so I connected it to PSU. It turns on and when I turn on the PSU, and it stays on as long as PSU is on. I disconnect the hot end fan (I use Molex connector) and detach the fan unit from the extruder - I am using the fan mount designed by KuduCan87 (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:119061) and it allows me tby Yamster - Reprappers
So, now the hot end temperature reading is not consistent with that of the heated bed, but after updating the code to Honywell it's showing a value which is a lot more reasonable than before (51C instead of 495C), right? Actually, judging from the fact that the temperature of the heated bed in your new picture is showing 92C, I think it was heated up before and now in process of cooling... and tby Yamster - Reprappers
FYI or FWIW, this is what I have in my firmware: #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5 #define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0 #define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0 #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 6 I have EPCOS thrmistor installed on my heated bed, and ATC Semitec thermistor in my hot end. Yep, there's a long story behind it; I basically checked/double checked and replaced pretty much every components and parts in my hot end past few weeks,by Yamster - Reprappers
Wait... the same thermistor works fine (= you get the correct reading) when used for heated bed? That's weird. One thing I've noticed in your code is.. #define TEMP_SENSOR_1 #define TEMP_SENSOR_1 1 #define TEMP_SENSOR_2 1 #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1 I think TEMP_SENSOR_0 values should be set to 7 or 71 since you said you have Honeywell thermistors. What even more weird is that you actuallyby Yamster - Reprappers
So.. It is a slicing issue. There actually was a very similar issue in another forum: It's quite funny that it's almost identical issue I had, including the fact that the reporter had a problem only printing a small extruder gear! The only difference was that I was printing a gear with "tire track" teeth (not sure what its proper name is.. when the gear is in upright position, the teeth lookby Yamster - Reprappers
Would you mind sharing how you fixed the fluctuating temp problem and got around D8 D9 problem? I'm asking this actually out of curiosity, but looking at your pictures I wonder if your temperature is a bit too high... In other words maybe you are not getting the correct temp reading and ended up setting it too high. So, maybe talking about how you fixed the temperature fluctuation problem havby Yamster - Printing
Yes.. this is weird indeed. After loading the g code into Pronterface, I checked the upper layers, where the gear teethe are. And, they are actually hallow! I don't see any infill lines between the center hole and the gear teeth (by the way, you will see two small gears - I wanted to slow down the print to prevent excessive curling, and instead of halving the feed rate, I thought I could justby Yamster - Reprappers
And for comparison.. here's another print of the same small gear, which I have printed some time ago (I forgot what the exact settings were) using 0.35 mm nozzle head. For the small gear with void inside, I used 0.5 mm nozzle. As you can see, there's a little bit of space in the same area, but it's a lot smaller. The void was small enough that I didn't consider that as an issue or abnormalitby Yamster - Reprappers
Oh I forgot to add the extrusion setting head comments from the gcode file (generated by Slic3r) : ; layer_height = .3 ; perimeters = 3 ; top_solid_layers = 3 ; bottom_solid_layers = 3 ; fill_density = 0.6 ; perimeter_speed = 40 ; infill_speed = 70 ; travel_speed = 140 ; nozzle_diameter = 0.5 ; filament_diameter = 2.83 ; extrusion_multiplier = 1 ; perimeters extrusion width = 0.66mm ; infill extby Yamster - Reprappers
I just printed a small gear part for Greg's Wade extruder. The overall print quality is alright, however I can see there's some void between the center hole and the gear teeth. I don't think it's print quality/calibration issue; I've also printed the big gear and extruder main body, they all look very solid. At this point I suspect this has something to do with the extrusion width. If itby Yamster - Reprappers
iquizzle Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > I'm not sure you can run both motors in parallel > off of a single driver... I have Prusa i3, and I believe my Z motors are driven off the same driver. Well, I actually know they are drive off the same driver, because they share the same connector - I wired them such way when I had to change the connector typeby Yamster - Reprappers
So, how has this Hyena bolt been working out for you guys? Is it a disappointment? Is it really better than conventional hobbed bolts? Is it just like a well made regular hobbed bolt, but nothing really spectacular? I am in process of printing replacement parts for my extruder (in case one of them in my current extruder breaks). However, since I got an extra motor and hot end, I am thinkingby Yamster - Reprappers
Not sure if this is the correct forum... but... It looks like a lot of people love Bowden extruder for the speedy printing. But as we all know, it has an inherent drawback of high hysteria. So, I was thinking... what if we put a small stepper motor on the extruder? You know, it's like one of those direct drive extruder, but using much smaller stepper motor, like this one? We will still keby Yamster - Reprappers
Yep, already ordered a spool of PLA and waiting for it to come. I really liked the sample PLA that I have received. In my opinion, PLA printing is somewhat cleaner/neater than ABS printing. Also, I like the fact that I only need to heat up the bed to 60 C - heating the bed usually is step that takes the longest (well, second to the actual printing) so it's really nice I don't have wait for theby Yamster - Reprappers
As much as I am glad to be able to report this as resolved... I am so ashamed on how stupid this issue was. Well, I am not even sure if there really was any issue to begin with. The black PLA filament I've been using (I am near to the end of this 1kg spool) turned out to be ABS. LOL As unbelievable as it may sound, it is true. Yep, I've ordered a spool of ABS filament, and I have received aby Yamster - Reprappers