I'm all in for a CoreXY subforum, I've actually been wanting one for a while.by MrDoctorDIV - Administration, Announcements, Policy
Also, wrong place to be asking questions. This is a place for putting your ideas out there and getting help designing it.by MrDoctorDIV - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Grab a CAD program that can import STL formatsby MrDoctorDIV - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
I've got the v5, screw and heater are tight as always. Original direct from E3D-Online. The way I have my kapton tape and baked thermal compound, it's not going anywhere, screw or no screw. Thanks for the reminder to check though.by MrDoctorDIV - Safety & Best Practices
Removing each print would require a refill on the volume with the gas. That's a high cost/safety ratio in my mind.by MrDoctorDIV - Safety & Best Practices
Step one: ditch Slic3r Step two: do not look back on Slic3r, or you will be made a pillar of salt Step three: KISSlicer, Cura, Simplify3D or other non-Slic3r slicer I once used Sli3r exclusively, I actually grabbed some decent prints from it. Has some good features, but overall it sucks at doing things properly and timely. I switched over to Simplify3D and don't miss a single thing, though I stiby MrDoctorDIV - Printing
Soak in warm water and rub off?by MrDoctorDIV - Printing
How would you implement leadscrewlessness for CoreXY? Just wondering your point, it's not that difficult, but you have more design experience than I do by far.by MrDoctorDIV - Developers
Megatronics v3 is my baby . Only problems are user errors . 6 stepper drivers [7 steppers], 2 on-board thermocouple supported, built in SD slot, etc. Things I only read about as adapters on other boardsby MrDoctorDIV - General
Honestly I think the only reason H-bots are still being built at all is that people just don't know enough about CoreXY. And if you implement a modified CoreXY, it's really simple and easy to build without compromising anything.by MrDoctorDIV - General
Just ran it again at 200C cycling 8. Still overshooting and staying such. It's not so much a problem for printing, at all really, but it often times adds waiting time to the start of a print as it waits for the heater to stabilize. I'm running an E3D v5, no mods to it.by MrDoctorDIV - General
I've run PID tuning several times, especially when I take a shift in temp usage . But no matter what, it always overshoots, and stays that way, on lower temps [230C for example, will not* get bellow 234C]. I've done M303 E0 S235 C8 And I've done M303 E0 S235 And one of the two, don't remember which, at 200C. Am I doing something wrong? I always start it cold and don't touch anything until it's fiby MrDoctorDIV - General
Likely skipping steps, do you have your pots calibrated?by MrDoctorDIV - General Mendel Topics
I actually experimented with the same thing and got great results. But I've started using other filaments like ABS and ABS/PA alloy which require a hot, hot bed. It ended up pulling up the vinyl wrap and making permanent wrinkles, which, it still didn't remove warpage. I've got some heavier DI-NOC on the way that may hold up better, we'll see.by MrDoctorDIV - Delta Machines
So I got around to making it. 17-18 hour print, somehow didn't jam even though I used the pro filament, which the E3D v5 hotend doesn't like. I've got my v6 on the way to solve that. 0.2mm layer height, sliced with Simplify3D . Printed on heavily modified Solidoodle 3. Pro PLA gold from MatterHackers. Printed slow and steady as I wanted no mistakes in the middle of the print. Came out not too badby MrDoctorDIV - Look what I made!
3D printing requires the laying of filament, soldering just needs to push it out, liquidy for best sticking results. Wouldn't work for 3D printing, but for a solder pen, in theory, I think it would work. When I solder it's in similar motion, press iron, and push in the solder on the iron in straight steady motion, solder melts and sticks to and around wires. Honestly, the more I think about it thby MrDoctorDIV - General
Depends both on the motor and the board. The most common connector is JST. These are the ones I got for my motors, but they aren't a perfect fit on my board, I have to slice off the protruding part that orients and secures the connector as they are too close to each other.by MrDoctorDIV - General
At maximum, you get 16.7oz/in. That's just the friction torque. Your pull in torque is a measly 4.2oz/in.Recommended extruder torque is 50oz/in or more. Extremely low friction gearing and super slow movement is the only way to implement that I can see.by MrDoctorDIV - General
QuoteMrDoctorDIV Almost looks like your Z-axis skipped a layer or two, and it wasn't being smashed down. Too small of a picture to tell. Really? What kind of idiot suggests a Z jump? Like, is that even possible?by MrDoctorDIV - Printing
It's currently already being talked about. Right now there's no cheap solution, but you can help along the process of finding/creating one.by MrDoctorDIV - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Almost looks like your Z-axis skipped a layer or two, and it wasn't being smashed down. Too small of a picture to tell.by MrDoctorDIV - Printing
Here's a guy who printed with Delrin. And another who used rods. EDIT: And if you're bold, you can get actual filament.by MrDoctorDIV - Polymer Working Group
I can see use in lack of leadscrews, yeah. That's actually a fair use for it, cutting cost. I have seen other non-leadscrew systems, however, and still question if this would be a real solution beyond what is already here. Especially since you are greatly reducing Z axis resolution. Other than that, I'd say go for it. We may not see a current real use, but one might come around.by MrDoctorDIV - Delta Machines
That's actually pretty awesome. I like it. Keep up the good work.by MrDoctorDIV - General
Tell us more about the hotend, por favorby MrDoctorDIV - Printing
Glad to see movement being made. I'm not the most knowledgeable, so please, bare with my ignorance. I think we should start by discussing things that can go wrong to give people an idea of what they're getting into. Hopefully they will second guess their choices.by MrDoctorDIV - Safety & Best Practices
It's late and I'm almost out, but before I forget; What is this? What do suppression capacitors do? It was in my subwoofer that I'm repairing and I looked up the numbers. For safety apparently. "Active and passive flame retardant."by MrDoctorDIV - Safety & Best Practices
I had wire explode one time.. Hah, that's a short that I quickly and over effectively removed and prevented. Apparently the wire can take enough current to explode before my power supply trips and shuts off . Heat didn't go much furthur than the area at the start of the wire and return of the other pole. Where it actually shorted was hardly warm. So even a thermal fuse at the point of the short wby MrDoctorDIV - Safety & Best Practices
"To get the maximum performance from this type of system, the gear rate should normally be designed so that the load inertia seen by the motor is close to the motor internal inertia" Sort of an eye opener for me. Something I could have come to if I thought about it, but no one can think of everything on their own. So many things I lack in knowing motors and drivers, the beef of movement, right beby MrDoctorDIV - Safety & Best Practices