The bootloader, even if loaded and running, will refuse to program the fuses. If you look in the code for the bootloader it's explicitly ignored. Makes sense, too, as if the bootloader is running you don't need to set the fuses, and setting the fuses may (probably would) make the bootloader no longer run. What really kinda peeved me is that the "programmer" sketch for the arduino ALSO has the fuby jgilmore - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Concern about the current-carrying capacity of the #18 wires is important. Let's not catch things on fire! But that wasn't what I was talking about. I meant that a 200W PC power supply typically can't produce even 100W on the +12V rail. It's mostly available on the 5V rail. There *are* supplies that will handle it, of course. But I'm under the impression that they're the exception rather than tby jgilmore - Sanguino(lolu)
Solved. See pull request on github here Long story short, I have no idea what was wrong. I pulled out the previous linear interpolation code and replaced it with something that works for 14.2 fixed point. And it still fits on my atmega168.by jgilmore - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Line voltage for the heated bed has always seemed to me to be the most reasonable solution. Especially with the PC-type power supplies being so slanted toward 5V. They often have a hard time producing enough 12V for just the steppers and extruder. Some people have found that there's more than one 12V rail inside there, and using two molex connectors stops the voltage drop under load problems. I'by jgilmore - Sanguino(lolu)
I don't think it's at all practical to include footprints for both with and w/o voltage regulators, due to the different widths and the much larger size of the one with the regulator. However... One feature of the RAMPS board that I thought interesting is the use of pins sticking *up* from the pololus for the stepper motor connections. That way those traces never hit the board at all, and thus dby jgilmore - Sanguino(lolu)
Well, I'm not an electrical guy, but you asked, and there are a couple things I noticed here. First, your endstop connectors are right next to your motor connectors. This implies that the traces on the board pass near eachother, especially as the processor is on the other side of the board from there - that trace has to pass the pololus. Driving a stepper is a high-current high-frequency thing,by jgilmore - Sanguino(lolu)
I've done a lot with this chip. It's the only one I've gotten to work at all. If I get one more dead pin, I'll have to spend some time getting a bootloader on one of the other chips I have. Actually, IIRC I had no problem getting the bootloader burned, but getting the fuses set correctly so it would actually run proved to be beyond me. I know what they should be set at, but nothing I tried actualby jgilmore - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Worth a try. That changed something. Now I'm reading 998 (13.15C, sun went down) on 0, and 1022/1023 on 1. Let me go mess with that. Well, looks like that pin is fried. It reads 998 always regardless. If I hook the wire from analog pin 1 into analog pin 0, thus connecting it to the thermistor's output, then I get correct (and changing with temperature) readings on pin 1. But pin 0 stays the samby jgilmore - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
I'm having problems reading my thermistor. I've defined 2 thermistors, and they both always report a temperature of zero. Well, after I updated the thermistor table. Before that they where always reporting 3C. I modifed temp.c to use 14.2 fixed point in the temp table (because it obviously needed to be done) and to report the ADC readings every time it reads the thermistors. The ADC reading foby jgilmore - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Yes, it's possible to use reprap's firmware w/ an arduino mega or such for g-code control of arbitrary 3-axis machines. You'd need stepper drivers (or servos, I suppose) that take a step/direction signal, which almost all of them do. You'd need steppers and stepper drivers sized for the load. Not sure it's desirable though. You might be better off using EMC2, which is also a free and opensourceby jgilmore - EMC2
If I understand this thread correctly, you're wanting the volume so that you can take it to your school and they can tell you what the cost to print will be on the 3D printer they have. This is a commercial 3D printer, and the print material is both proprietary and costly, so part price is based on volume. That opinion is based on your statement "The college gave me an extraordinary cost in retuby jgilmore - General Mendel Topics
Discussion of the alternative firmware "5D on Arduino" has reached 18 pages in one massive thread, makes it really hard to follow discussion. There are a five other threads dealing with the same subject. I don't know how useful it would be, I'm thinking that it would perhaps encourage people to start a new topic instead of adding to Überthread. Which would make things easier to follow and easieby jgilmore - Administration, Announcements, Policy
New pull request on github with the enhancements:here I found that even though *I* know perfectly well to terminate mendel_talk with ^D, my fingers don't always remember, and then I forget why mendel_cmd isn't working and waste time. So I fixed it to check for "cat" processes started from this terminal before and after, and if there aren't any before and are after, kill it! (sorry, hard sentencby jgilmore - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
It's quite easy. There's a config file, and even though it's technically a C program file, it's easy to modify and there's plenty of comments to help you along. And of course you can ask here if you run into problems. The hard part is getting the "arduino" software installed correctly. I think you'll have fewer problems if you go for a version that's one or two versions out-of-date. You also havby jgilmore - General
It's worth noting that the standard configuration of the Gen3 electronics uses the h-bridges on the extruder controller (which where originally intended to run two DC motors) to run a stepper instead. This is a hack that works fine for some people. I think that buying an extra stepper driver is a better idea though.by jgilmore - General
Andrew Smith: You can, sortof. A hand turned stepper will product electricity, but not really in a usable form. More like a non-sine wave low-voltage two-phase AC signal with poor quality, variable period (depends on speed), and variable voltage (depends on speed). It would be very inefficient, and take quite a bit in the way of secondary electronics to clean up to something usable. Cheaper to sby jgilmore - Controllers
I wasn't really able to find any information using those part numbers. Sorry. They do seem to be parts numbers though, so a deeper search may reveal a data sheet for that part with all the information you need. However, you did mention that it had five wires? If correct you won't be able to use that motor with standard reprap electronics. See the "stepper wiring" page on the wiki. As for the riby jgilmore - Controllers
pinio.c line 15 is missing a semicolon.by jgilmore - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
The Rotalink M234118C632 steppers will work fine (see caveat below), assuming they're not five-wire steppers. If they're six-wire as you've implied, then yes, you just ignore the center taps. Cap them off to make sure they don't touch anything though! They are 12V steppers, which makes them less than ideal. You may want to take the time to figure out how to drive them with a higher voltage, as yby jgilmore - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
I agree about the flat bit. A piece of flat bar stock seems ideal. Probably 1/8" (3mm) thick, and as wide as will fit inside the profile of your gear. Might want something with more of a polish to it to reduce friction though.by jgilmore - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Yes, the arduino interprets g-code commands and generates the step and directions signals. See schematic at Mendel electronic wiring and also RAMPS Electronics Schematic Note that the RAMPS version uses the pololu stepper driver breakout boards, which take step/dir signals, and the "reprap stepper driver" boards also take a step/dir signal for control.by jgilmore - General
Not sure (I hate Java, and refuse to use the reprap host software) but I think the steps/mm stuff in the reprap host is a holdover from the previous non-gcode generation of electronics. In current (g-code based) electronics, the steps/mm can only be modified by recompiling the firmware. I think. (I don't use the official firmware either, there may be a M-code or something to write a new steps/mby jgilmore - General
Sounds like you need the following advice: First, What tooling do you have? A "real" mendel is difficult (some would say technically impossible) to build without access to a 3D printer, or otherwise getting the printed plastic parts. Thus, build a repstrap, and that page is an overview of general repstrap types, evaluating which is easiest to build depending on what tools you already have. Secoby jgilmore - Reprappers
Two things: First, What tooling to you have? Second, a mendel is probably the cheapest option. The first is for a repstrap, which is the only option if you can't get the plastic parts. But plastic parts are relatively easy to get now, so I'd recommend the second.by jgilmore - General
Buback Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > (i like the simplicity and reliability of the > block heater. If you want the best of both worlds, > perhaps wrap the nichrome around an aluminum tube, > and add interior threads, so that you can screw it > onto the extruder nozzle?) That's been done. Though he used brass, and got a "threaded insert" which alby jgilmore - General Mendel Topics
ata0921 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > @ araspitfire: What about a comparison using the > PP3DP filament? Bet you we would notice a > difference in quality then. There plastic is > really something, can't seem to find any plastic > that comes close with its characteristics (easy > raft/support removal for example). I tried > MakerGear plasticby jgilmore - General
It might. Last hair dryer I looked at had a really curly wire in it, I don't know if you'd be able to use that without hammering it all flat (a tedious process) first.by jgilmore - Reprappers
I have two old dead laptops with good power supplies. Hard to beat "The Right Price™" which is, of course, free.by jgilmore - Reprappers
Don't know - I used wire from a busted toaster myself. It was 1 Ohm per inch. Which is exactly what the nichrome wire called for in the original designs was. That was much thinner, so it must have been a different alloy. Have you considered using a heater block w/ ceramic resistor instead of nichrome? Much more reliable and much neater too.by jgilmore - Reprappers