It almost looks like your bed is not flat. In the second picture you can see it filled in properly in one area but then filled in with gaps in another area. That makes me wonder if your bed is not flat and the gapped area is lower than the properly filled area.by PDBeal - Reprappers
I think the other aspect that everyone is overlooking. Your assuming you can take a little of one color and a little of a different color and make them mix. Sadly, I believe the current formulation of ABS or PLA or even Nylon does not work like this and you'll always end up with striped toothpaste look no matter what mixing chamber you use. For your mixing chamber to work I think you'd need complby PDBeal - Developers
From my early testing, this STOP button isn't functioning on the PanelDue while it is homing or doing the G29 or G30 routines. In my case, as it was homing the Z axis, the DC42 IR sensor was not triggering properly and it was ramming the nozzle into my PEI bed. Not sure how or why, but the DC42 IR sensor was reading 12 when nothing was close and then 174 when it was trying to run into the bed.by PDBeal - Duet
Quote3D-Print I jsut updated by firmware from 1.12a-dc42 to 1.18.1 and now my PID setting are not working. I seems like my bed is using bang bang pulses vs. PID. Prior to the update, my SSR would flicker and maintain a very stable bed temp. Now it is either on or off and quite variable. Here are my M301 codes from the config file: M301 H0 P24 I0.80 D105 T0.50 S1.0 ; PID settings for Print Bby PDBeal - Duet
I've run into an issue on starting one of my printers and noticed the STOP button on the PanelDue isn't acting the same as the Emergency Stop button on the DWC page. It seems as though the STOP button doesn't do anything, or just queue's up a STOP command. When it doesn't stop the printer, I immediately go over to the DWC and hit the Emergency Stop button so I don't know if it did queue up a STby PDBeal - Duet
I would think your M84 steppers off is probably what causes that as your telling the code to stop holding the motors and gravity will pull the hotend down at that point.by PDBeal - Printing
I've not had any issues with mine. I've got 4 of them on 4 different genuine E3D V6 hotends and they all stay put without any external attachment devices. Even the older genuine E3D V6 blocks that are don't support the thermister cartridge don't seem to have a problem sitting still either and only hold the block on 3 sides in that case because of the smaller size. I did have a few issues withby PDBeal - Printing
If the metal box is large enough you don't need force air cooling. The metal box acts as a heat sink, but you do have to have enough metal vs the heat source. This practice is done a lot with Industrial equipment through heat calculations and sizing the industrial control cabinet large enough to act as a heat sink. I've designed and installed many industrial electrical cabinets with VFD drives anby PDBeal - General
When I flash the firmware on the PanelDue boards, I usually hit the Erase button, and then I have to hit the reset button before it lets me actually flash it. I know its not the same board your having issues with, but you might want to try hit erase, then reset and then see what com port it shows up as.by PDBeal - Duet
So I either have to redesign my titan bracket to sit higher, or I loose some build height with this sensor? How thick is this sensor block or how much build height do you end up loosing? I know the Smartrapcore Alu has a build height of 160mm, so I'd be curious to know what the end build height is without a titan mount redesign.by PDBeal - General
I think I'm beyond a delta. I've done a ton of research about one that I've convinced myself they're neat to watch, but not worth the time and money building one. Also, as far as I understand, if someone can correct me if I'm wrong, the further your print is from the center of the bed the less accurate it becomes due to software rounding issues. They are neat to watch, but have too many issue toby PDBeal - Smart_Rap
Do you have any pictures of it being used with a E3D Titan and the E3D V6? Based on the one picture on that site, I really don't see how it would mount with the Titan. Has it been tested with a genuine E3D Titan?by PDBeal - General
QuoteWZ9V I got it mostly assembled but eventually gave up on it. I feel it needs screws instead of belts on Z and like you said better guide rods. I decided to go D-Bot instead. The plastic corners of the D-Bot put me off on building it. I don't see how it would every really be solid unless you go metal on metal on the corners, and even with the Smartrapcore Alu that I have, I've seen the parby PDBeal - Smart_Rap
I've been experimenting with the 300x300x360 CoreXY based on the Smartrapcore ALU design, and it is possible to add 100mm to all the alumiunum dimensions and rod dimensions, but the cantilever bed design doesn't work well at all. Also, I've noticed going 300x300 with the XY, 8mm rods really aren't that strong enough for that distance without flexing meaning to go 300x300 it would be better to reby PDBeal - Smart_Rap
The Smartrap Mini was his entry level design before he started the CoreXY machines. Its all listed on the Smartrap mini page of the RepRap.org website and also on Thingiverse. The manual lists the print size from 150 x 150 x 150 to around 250 x 250 x 200. The first prototype is 200 x 200 x 150. When I built this it was closer to 160x160x125ish, but would all depend on your rod lengths.by PDBeal - Smart_Rap
I would almost say if Money isn't an issue, look at the Taz 6. It's not really a kit, and doesn't seem too bad with price / performance / build area.by PDBeal - General
If you have the same motor, same pulleys, and same belts on the X and Y axis, you might just need to adjust the Vref on your Y axis driver.by PDBeal - Firmware - mainstream and related support
make sure you have ip addresses defined in the raspberrypi and the duet that are both in the same subnet. For example, your duet might be 192.168.0.4, then your raspberrypi should be something else in the 192.168.0 subnet like 192.168.0.6. You'll have to specify that in the raspberrypi and the duet board to use a cross over cable. Neither side should have a gateway defined, or it should be setby PDBeal - Duet
In this case, I think you'd either need a switch to plug the raspberrypi and the duet board into with both having different ip addresses in the same subnet, and then you;d just use a browser on the raspberrypi to view the DWC pages from the duet. It wouldn't be any different than if your PC was playing the role of the raspberrypi. Alternatively, you could skip the switch and use a cross over caby PDBeal - Duet
There's always the concrete 3d printer. Of course, he didn't print a house, but still I'm sure the application could be adapted.by PDBeal - General
Slice a job in both Cura and Slic3r and then take a look at the starting lines and see if one is starting closer to the bed than the other by looking at the Z values.by PDBeal - Printing
I've had very good results with Hatchbox PLA or eSun PLA and eSun PLA+. Both have been very easy to work with and relatively inexpensive ($20-25 depending on color and availability) from Amazon.com. However, I once saw a "cheap PLA" advertisement from Deltrprinter, and bought a few rolls. I've had nothing but trouble getting them to extrude properly. I've ended up getting them to work, but thby PDBeal - Reprappers
If ringing is usually caused by belts, it does make me wonder how a printer that used a chain would do with ringing. It could be interesting to test a machine with the only difference being chain vs belt.by PDBeal - General
One thing to note, it could be a time vs temp issue. When I run PLA (200C), I can print at 45-60mm/s, but when I run PETG (245C) I can start at 45mm/s but it'll stop extruding like your experiencing. However, when I run PETG (245C) at 30mm/s I don't have any issues with the material not extruding. In my case, the temperature profile is fine, but PETG just takes a little longer time to melt proby PDBeal - General
I expect shrinkage is not a standard number for all materials and all manufactured filaments. PLA, PLA+, PET, PETG, ABS, ABSPlus, Nylon would all have varying degrees of plastic shrinkage and I would assume you'd even see different shrinkage between PLA for example of different brands all based on what other "fillers" the plastic contains. I've seen the Stratasys uPrint SE printers compensate fby PDBeal - Printing
I believe the Aero is mounted in the same manor as the Titan would be mounted on that 3d printed bracket between the motor and the extruder itself.by PDBeal - General
I've heard of people being able to extrude 3mm flexible filaments with a bowden, but never with 1.75mm.by PDBeal - General
You will also want to change your idler bearing to one with a groove. You don't want to be smashing the ninjaflex filament against a flat bearing as it will stick to it and find a way out of the fully enclosed path. And with the Flexion extruder that I have on my Smartrapcore Alu machine, you don't want much tension if any on the ninjaflex filament. You only need enough tension for the teeth oby PDBeal - General
If it is slicer software based, you should see the lines in the preview window of the g-code. I'm not sure if that's possible in Simplify 3D, but I would assume so since it's available in Cura and Slic3r.by PDBeal - Printing
QuoteElmoC I think I found the source of the problem. This BLTouch I have is a piece of crap. It seems to jam and misread a lot. I have removed it from the printer and it is not residing in the trash can. I'll be replacing the one on my other printer soon. That's actually nice to know. I had been looking at them, but decided against it because it was using some sort of mechanical device to pby PDBeal - Duet