in my experience with steppers, makes noise but doesn't rotate is often a case of miswired connections. afaik, for voltage, the steppers are provided the input DC voltage that you feed the duet (12vdc nominal for most people). You can increase the setting for stepper driver current via the config g-code. M906 I think?by achaz - Ormerod
could it be set up to just edit the first/last X lines? Not sure of the others, but most of the time anything I would want to edit or look at is in the start or end gcode.by achaz - Duet
Ahhhhh yeah. Im still using the original o2 sensor board and carriage design. Sorry about thatby achaz - Ormerod
yup, thats what the blind holes were for. First time I fit the part the pins came out very poorly so i put the bores in with the intent to bring them through if the pins failed againby achaz - Ormerod
I think I lied about one thing on the hardware question... I recall that you do need 2 longer bolts for the z nut trap mount. 5mm longer than whatever is there right now iirc. The original v1 design didn't have that problem but once I rebuilt it to stand further out (and need to be shimmed accordingly) longer bolts were in order.by achaz - Ormerod
Quotedmould I just looked at your Z-nut trap. It has a very long and steep overhang that is not going to print in ABS without a separate print cooling fan (which I don't have). So I'll modify it by putting a couple of thin walls under each side of the overhang for support - they can be broken off afterwards. Dave Interesting. I don't have a parts cooling fan and I've printed it in ABS withouby achaz - Ormerod
yeah those chamfers are annoying. I'd get rid of them and just clean up any elephant foot by hand if I were to redesign the parts again. I don't think you should need any different hardware, pretty sure in all cases I designed it to reuse the parts in their original locations since I didn't want to go buying a small handful of oddball pieces. This choice I think leaves the design a little weakby achaz - Ormerod
motor brackets should be printable w\o support or brim if you use the w-discs version (I print mostly ABS, so planning for warp is a normal thing) (do check your slicer's preview on the modeled supports though, i made this back when I wasn't real great at modelling in supports so YMMV) the shim piece I would suggest printing a couple of, if you want thicker single piece shims just resize it on thby achaz - Ormerod
if you use the v2 you will need a spacer between the nut trap and motor mount. I've been just using an ad hoc one i tossed together out of 'stuff', but I think the number is about 4mm. I will try to remember to generate a few spacers and upload them. I'm also using a motor mount that includes a longer/larger sensor target. Will hunt down that file too.by achaz - Ormerod
I'm driving a TR-8 direct. Shifted the stepper away from the junction of the Z and Y extrusions to accomodate this, rebuilt the lower parts and the nut-trap to accommodate. I had a little misalignment in V1, so the v2 files were designed to move the nut trap out to allow shimming for a better alignment. I did the original numbers back of a cocktail-napkin style some I was surprised that the vby achaz - Ormerod
QuotePointy If this is undesirable for ABS, I will look at how I can block/vent the airflow. except in very limited scenarios this is very undesirable with ABS. Will cause terrible layer bonding and the result will be a very brittle partby achaz - Ormerod
Is the measured temp actually dropping under 170? If so, do you have a part cooling fan that might be cooling the heating block?by achaz - Ormerod
I bought one a few months back, but haven't designed a mount yet.by achaz - Ormerod
I never had much luck printing gears for the Z drive that ran quite right, always seemed to be some problem or another. I finally gave up the other month, got a chinese leadscrew, redesigned some parts and moved my Z axis motor a bit and set the whole thing up for direct drive. No more gears. Still need to do some revision work on the parts, but I'm happy to be free of the gears.by achaz - Ormerod
QuoteRoSt I have a high quality soldering station but my bed heater is black on both sides and i dont think its possible to get it back to life. Happened to mine as well. RRP sent me a replacement, though in the meantime I just soldered mine back together with some new wire directly to the topside track, then used a short length of wire to bridge the crater and re-wire the line to the resistorby achaz - Ormerod
I fitted this one to my extruder when i set up my e3d 10 Pcs 5mm Male Thread 4mm Push In Joint Pneumatic Connector Quick Fittingsby achaz - Ormerod
I didn't think mine was wearing badly, but checking closely today I have found that my bearing is also wearing a small groove in, though it turns freely. Looks like I need to go find some shim stock too.by achaz - Ormerod
Sorry about your job Ian, I think it is pretty classless to lay someone off 2 weeks before christmas, amidst the holiday season and all. I hope you had some notice at least or got at least a pleasant parting gift as a kick out the door in December is a poor reward for good service rendered. Also a bit disturbed by the claim of RRP getting out while they're ahead, and the rapid cessation of suppby achaz - Ormerod
I got tired of mine disconnecting and soldered them on.by achaz - Ormerod
Curious if anyone has fit a Chimera onto their O yet. I just got one and am debating the best way to mount it.by achaz - Ormerod
Yeah, I can't bring myself to buy S3d either. The too small-hole thing got better for me after I switched to the e3d, not sure why, but I'm guessing since the Ultimaker ships with a 0.4mm nozzle maybe it internally does some things better for that size than the 0.5? The new beta release of Cura exposes a lot of the underlying settings for adjustment, but I really don't like the UI so haven'tby achaz - Ormerod
a little blobbing yes, extrusion and retraction fine tuning isn't really my thing, and most of what I print will either have some additional fitting work done anyways (so no problem to clean up a little nubbin on a vertical seam), or will be parts for model combat warships (see rcwarshipcombat.com ) and a little blob isn't a big deal there. Overall I feel my quality and consistency of print andby achaz - Ormerod
ABS, 0.2mm layers @235C 0.8mm perimeters (likely the cause of deformation area in the bow, an earlier print with 1.2mm walls did not suffer this) 1.6mm retraction Sliced with Cura.by achaz - Ormerod
This has happened to me, same as Crouchy, usually something snagging a curling corner or edge. ABS prints seem especially prone to it. For me they tend to snag on the x-carriage by the height sensor or on the sensor itself.by achaz - Ormerod
I've been very happy with my e3d v6 for ABS printing on the O2. Attempts to work with pet-g though.. have been consistent failures.by achaz - Ormerod
I like having multiple print times. I use absolute extrusion and Cura zeroes the extruder roughly every 10000mm, so estimates on filament usage get knocked out of whack. What I would like though, in the vein of time to completion, is if we could automatically store the time it took to print a fileby achaz - Ormerod