Has anyone bought one of these? If so how do they perform?by ixlix - Developers
hows the release date of these coming along?by ixlix - Duet
You need to invert the extruder stepper direction if its moving backwards during a print. see below: Invert stepper motor direction You can invert the stepper motor direction if it was wired the wrong way. It doesn’t make a difference if you invert the stepper motor wiring or if you invert it in the code. *Remember to power off the printer before unplugging or replugging the stepper motors. #by ixlix - Printing
Hi everyone, Ive just configured my Corexy printer with the latest Marlin firmware, and cant find a parameter that used to be in the older versions = Z_RAISE_BEFORE_HOMING AS my bed sits at Max height before it homes to Min, after x and y home, it tries to move the bed further away from Min but as its already at its limit it makes the stepper ski for a second or two then homes Z normally. I useby ixlix - Firmware - Marlin
Okay so heres a link to the solidworks assembly: SmartCore V and the parasolid for onshape: SmartrapCore V A couple of notes. - Im not using the z axis i have modelled in the assembly and I couldnt get it to slide smoothly. Im using the one listed below. - Im not using the bearing idlers in the assembly, but the 2 piece ones below which stay on the bearings a lot better. I resized for a peby ixlix - Smart_Rap
I initially wanted to use 20x20, but it was out of stock at the aussie makerstore. Also with the design of the belts being on different planes, you need two channels to run the belts in which you can only get using 40x20. I can release the files on thingiverse if you're interested. ALexby ixlix - Smart_Rap
im currently usin this one, but i find the tension bolt nuts hard to keep in place when i need to loosen it to change filaments. airtripper But have also printed this one as it uses 2 m4 nuts either side which should help even more, and the nut is more captive. scholtz thingiverse pageby ixlix - Smart_Rap
Yeah the flex3drive looks nice but its expensive.by ixlix - Smart_Rap
I found a simpler solution, get rid of the pressfit connector on the top of your extruder (cold end) body and use a 4mm nut on the ptfe tube. Example of this would be the airtripper. The pressfits wear out, and have too much slop/movement in them. Anchoring the ptfe tube is the key to consistent extrusion and therefore reduing blobs and zits. Ive noticed my retraction amount is smaller and printby ixlix - Smart_Rap
It only requires 1m of v-slot, so about $30 (aus) for that, and i bought all the other bits such as wheels from aliexpress. I think it would total about $100 Aus. Im really seeing a deifference in the print quality though, such as the attached photo. My pillars have never been so uniform and neat.by ixlix - Smart_Rap
Ive got one, and although it says max speed of 50mm/s, mine seems happy to print up to 100mm/s without any noticeable loss in quality other than speed related. Very happy.by ixlix - Printing
I did have linear rails originally, but my rods were measuring about 7.92mm and so the linear bearings were sloppy and noisy (cheap). I also think the v-slot mechaism with eccentric nuts provides a better system of adjustability to get the smoothest and rigid operation. I was hoping that it would be a lot quieter, but its only about 30% quieter i think, but i have yet to turn down the stepper driby ixlix - Smart_Rap
Any follow up on your steel core belts?by ixlix - Wanted
Some updates in the photos. The action is really nice, smooth and solid. Should have made it this way in the first place.by ixlix - Smart_Rap
Thanks. Its all in solidworks at the moment but I will release them once ive finalized the design.by ixlix - Smart_Rap
So heres a snap shot of what ive designed so far. Ive taken inspiration from the C bot and D Bot printers, so credit to those guys!by ixlix - Smart_Rap
Has anyone attempted to convert a Core to V-Slot? Im thinking of giving it a go. Id only need three rails for the X and Y axes.by ixlix - Smart_Rap
Ok thanks s0me, I had to lower the accelleration settings down to 700 for it to move smoothly. Now everything is working great!by ixlix - Smart_Rap
While you can change it, it is a long process to change each part. Its not like the openscad version were you can change it with a few parameters.by ixlix - Smart_Rap
I'm specifically talking about the movement between 0:14-0:18 in the video, the movement from X0Y0 to the center of the bed before the bed moves upwards. It's a brand new 33a psu, stepper drivers are getting plenty of voltage. As I said, it prints fine, the axes move smoothly, belts are good. Was making the move smoothly until I replaced the ramps board. I will try the acceleration settings.by ixlix - Smart_Rap
Okay guys, im trying to troubleshoot an issue i have with my Smartcore. When printing and moving (by manual control) the printer moves fine, X & Y homing works fine also, but when it tries to home Z, the movement of the X & Y axes to the centre of the bed is very jerky. See my video attached. Smartcore Z Home Movement Anyone have any advice regarding this? Thanksby ixlix - Smart_Rap
Have you set the jumpers under your stepper drivers correctly for the stepping? Eg 1/16th or 1/32?by ixlix - Smart_Rap
Hi everyone. Id like some help to improve the printing quality of my top layers. As you can see from the attached image its pretty messy, and always has ridges in it. The corners of top layers (where the lengths decrease) always look messy and over extruded, but thats not always the case in the middle of top layers. Ive tried reducing the extrusion amount but it seems to go from this to extrusionby ixlix - Printing
I just built one for my first printer and its been really simple and straightforward to get it up and running. Go for it, you wont be disappointed and its a cheap way to build one.by ixlix - Smart_Rap
Yep running a single 33a psu for everything. I can measure the holes tonight.by ixlix - General
Im also qondering about these settings, after getting my Core to a decent point. Im assuming the slicing profiles/firmware available from the SmartrapCore github are pretty close to the mark, but id also like to know any info on improving print quality.by ixlix - Smart_Rap
Ok just to follow up on this, with the new 33A psu, my bed hits 100c in a few minutes and never leaves it during a print. The mk3 alu is a great bed after all.by ixlix - General
Well I'm measuring it with a cheap meter which reads .5ohms when you touch the probes, so its probably not quite 1.6.by ixlix - General
You are actually correct WZ9V, although i had soldered the GND to both pad 2 and 3, upon closer inpection it had lifted enough to lose contact. I have resoldered it and the resistance is down to 1.8ohms, which may be a little high due to my cheap multimeter leads. The bed now heats up to 95c pretty quickly and stays there during a print. Pity i went and ordered a new psu! Oh well, it will fitby ixlix - General
Thanks JM. Im using cables aroun 8-10 gauge, they only just fit into the terminal blocks of the ramps. Ive tried two psu's and i get the same result. Ive contacted the seller and he's asked for a photo of the wiring but said if it all seems fine then he'll replace it. Heres hoping.by ixlix - General