Quotedc42Ian, I think you need to either supply faster SD cards, or change the firmware to allow the SD card more startup time. I've already passed that suggestion on to the firmware team! I'm fed up of apologising for the stupid things... Ian RepRapPro tech supportby reprappro - Ormerod
If you break it, I'll send you a new one! I wasn't involved much in the choice of the resistors, but I know it's a fine balance. I think you've had a bit of experience with these, so I'll leave you to it; any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby reprappro - Ormerod
Hmm.. I've checked mine, and the washer does seem to interfere with the MR93ZZ bearing; but I have to over-tighten the screw to do it. Turning the (slightly dished) M3 washer over makes it better, and moves fine at 'normal' tightness (no, I don't have torque settings...). I swapped in a 623 bearing, which seems to rotate fine when tightened hard, but doesn't give you much adjustment for the angleby reprappro - Ormerod
The z-nut-trap printed part now hold the ... er... z nut trap! It's no longer in the x-rib, just in the printed part. You can compare the old and new z-nut-traps; github lets you go back into the history: Old one: New one: The original x-rib had four potential failure points: 1. Mis-alignment of the z-nut-trap breaks off the tips of the nut trap in the x-rib 2. The nut trap part of the x-ribby reprappro - Ormerod
The colour is the same as the red filament we sell, of course! We generally expect people to print updated parts for themselves - the printer will work with the parts supplied (with the odd work around...). We weren't planning on printing red z-runner-mounts - we can send you a green one, if you want. We are printing some of the updated z-nut-traps in red, for RS customers, mainly because x-riby reprappro - Ormerod
Adrian uses Eclipse to write the firmware, not Arduino IDE. Not sure that helps! I'm waiting for a response from him. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby reprappro - Ormerod
@Rory: The filament threads between protrusions is usually a result of printing a little too hot, and fine tuning the retraction speed and distance. It can usually be tuned out. Filament can have quite widely vary properties; particularly from different manufacturers, and different colours. It's something you have to experiment with. @dc42: We increased the size of the fan (from 40mm x 40mm x 10by reprappro - Ormerod
The Think3DPrint3D boards are produced by the same company that we get them from, and uses the same firmware. They even have the same sticker on the ARM chip that we get! They just haven't got around to writing instructions, as far as I can tell (sorry Tony, if you're reading this!). Ian RepRapPro tech supportby reprappro - Ormerod
@Treth: you may find you get 0.1 or 0.2V more by removing JP9 (5V_EN), if it's on. I *think* it made a difference when I tested it earlier today! Ian RepRapPro tech supportby reprappro - Ormerod
It's an interesting point, dc42, and something we've been mulling over, especially since we went 'big time' with RS! Our general policy is that it is your printer, and you are free to do what you want to it. It's the nature of machine evolution that Adrian Bowyer promotes, that by Open Sourcing the design, people are free to make their own choices, and the printer can develop independently of usby reprappro - Ormerod
Hi Rory166 The instructions have changed substantially over time, and are continuing to evolve. We do plan to do a pdf version for printing, but only when the instructions are more stable, and I advise people to use the online version for this reason. The layout we chose for the instructions was designed to present the instructions clearly, to reduce clutter on-screen, and make steps have a smalby reprappro - Ormerod
I've added this to the commissioning page, as I believe it to be at least part of the problem IMPORTANT: note about USB 5V power When using the Duet with 5V power supplied by the USB cable only (ie not ATX PSU power), you may find that the board doesn’t respond correctly. The web interface, SD card reading, IR sensor may all be unreliable. Three different voltages are used on the Duet: 12V forby reprappro - Ormerod
Thanks, I've updated the commissioning instructions (I think I said I wrote the first draft rather late at night, from memory!), with: Wait for 1 minute (this is normal when no ethernet is connected and the firmware is searching for the network), and following should show: RepRapFirmware is up and running. This indicates that the firmware is working. If your thermistor wires (the heated bed anby reprappro - Ormerod
chriscain - excellent! Good diagnosis skills. Glad you were able to get it working. Was the hub independently powered from the mains, or was it powered from the computer USB port? We've found if they are not powered from the mains, the voltage can be on the low side. 3 different voltages are used on the board: 12V for motors, fans and heaters, 5V is used to drive the MOSFETs, and most other partby reprappro - Ormerod
Hi all Not looking for any sympathy, but I was up until 3am updating the Commissioning (much more detail on basic setup of software and communication), Axis Compensation (formerly Commissioning) pages! Hopefully everything is a bit clearer now. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby reprappro - Ormerod
I think it will help to use our profiles; Adrian has written these so the start gcode is correct. I think you are using the Slic3r defaults, which may give poor results. To use our profiles with Slic3r, the contents of the 'Slic3r-settings' folder that is in our github repository here needs to replace the contents of the default Slic3r profiles folder. The location of this folder depends on whiby reprappro - Ormerod
@actiondrone - I think it's a fault with the Duet. I will order a new one, to be sent under warranty. I'll send you an email in the next few minutes. @mdearman - Understanding the network settings is quite complex. I have written a troubleshooting guide, here, which may be clearer:by reprappro - Ormerod
@actiondrone - Can you post, with a list of what you have done so far, in this thread: Questions and replies are getting a bit lost in this 'general' thread. Now we have an Ormerod sub-forum, can everyone post specific queries to existing (or new, if it doesn't exist) threads, please? Then it will be easier to group problems and solutions together. I will monitor the whole Ormerod section. Thby reprappro - Ormerod
Hi Treth Good, glad it's sorted, and thanks for the feedback. We list a reasonably priced crimping tool (certainly no more expensive than a half-decent soldering iron) on the 'Introduction' page; this is the crimp tool we use, though it still needs a little care to get good crimps - Nophead also shows how to crimp using pliers here: To make connections, it's a toss up between crimping and solby reprappro - Ormerod
Hi Danie It does sound like a stepper driver problem. Please email me on support at reprappro dot com and we'll organise a warranty replacement. It would be good to get your board back, to work out what has gone wrong with it. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby reprappro - Ormerod
Hi Mickyblueeyes Email support at reprappro dot com for replacement parts, under warranty. We're steadily improving the documentation. The cover should clip on firmly, with the spool holder mounted on it. I'll update the instructions, when I get the chance... Ian RepRapPro tech supportby reprappro - Ormerod
The foil is ON TOP of the glass, in the corners, but under Kapton. You could probably put it straight on top of the carbon fibre surface, you would just have to be carful that you don't print over it. We tried carbon fibre build plate a while ago, but didn't like the rough surface finish. Or the price! Ian RepRapPro tech supportby reprappro - Ormerod
Hi Danie If you set the motor to extrude 100mm, then hold the large gear, does it feel like it has too little strength? It does sound possibly like a motor or motor driver problem, though could be wiring. The vref is set in firmware, and should be correct. Can you try swapping the motor from another axis, and reseating all wiring? That should rule out the motors and wiring, and whether it's a bby reprappro - Ormerod
Ray Do you get a green light? Markus did not. If you do, but still can't connect, it's possible you have some other ethernet hardware malfunction. ip settings in firmware (should work without an SD card, or if sys/config.g is not being recognised): #define IP_ADDRESS {192, 168, 1, 10} // Need some sort of default... #define NET_MASK {255, 255, 255, 0} #define GATE_WAY {192, 168, 1, 1} This isby reprappro - Ormerod
Sorry, my mistake... The Y axis homing switch is a MAX endstop. ie it triggers at the maximum positive point. So when the Y axis homes, it finds it's Y=200 point. Then it can move back to 0, at the other end of the axis. Without this, due to the orientation of the Y axis, any part printed would be mirrored. The other two axes are MIN endstops; they trigger at 0 for X and Y. Also, orientate theby reprappro - Ormerod
Treth Re Kapton tape over the aluminium foil - the IR beam has no problem passing through the Kapton. It's the glass (more reflection/refratction), and the distance to the aluminium under the glass (greater than 3mm) that causes the problem. If you're homing directly onto the aluminium without the glass, I would guess that it won't have any problem. But then you're going to have problems printinby reprappro - Ormerod
Treth Plugging ethernet direct into a PC is something we've only briefly played around with. The one laptop we have tried it with seems to auto-negotiate, and a standard network cable worked. Actually, building a crossover cable caused it NOT to work! But that could have been down to poor construction. You have to set your PC ethernet port to the same subnet mask and give it an ip number in theby reprappro - Ormerod
Hi Markus The picture in the comissioning instructions is Adrian Bowyer's development machine. He likes to manually adjust the bed so it's close to level; however, we don't supply the longer screws and extra nuts to do it this way - it should be an unnecessary step with the auto compensation! The bed shouldn't be that far out of level with the X axis as built. I'll update the instructions, whenby reprappro - Ormerod
Daniedb It depends what you are describing moving. The Y axis + and - in your picture shows the nozzle movement relative to the bed, rather than the actual movement of the axis, which is the other way! The motor end is the homing position of both X, Y and Z axis. At 0,0,0 the nozzle should be over the back right hand corner of the bed, just touching the surface. Ian RepRapPro tech supportby reprappro - Ormerod
@mandeng The thickness of the acrylic shouldn't be an issue, so long as it is a linear change along it's length, and neither should the angle of the arm. The whole point of changing the electronics and firmware is to allow for compensation of ALL of the axes. That is, you measure the deviation from straight, and the firmware compensates for it. See the 'Bed Plane Compensation' instructions in 'cby reprappro - Ormerod