Hi, here's the complete config.g file.... This works with Pronterface, but not WWW. I did set the IP address to 192.168.43.103, but my phone has changed the IP address range since restarting it's WiFi Hotspot, and after editing the addresses it refused to become active. (Not sure if it's the PCs McAfee firewall or the phone not accepting the new address. M111 S0; Debug off M550 POrmerod; Set theby KimBrown - Ormerod
Thanks for the reply David, but I've hit a snag.... If I change P0 to P1 then when using Pronterface Turning on the Extruder Heater actually turns on the Bed Heater.... The Bed Heater also can be turned on by the Bed Heater button in Pronterface..... (ie both buttons turn on the bed) As for the Web control, I'm on mobile internet via my phone at the moment, and the range of IP addresses changedby KimBrown - Ormerod
Cheers Treito, ok got that....I'd forgotten about the other voltages.... But yep I understand where your coming from......by KimBrown - Ormerod
Hi, ok, I decided to try the Web interface again (I change networks allot so normally use Pronterface as a rule). Ok, got it all up and running, but can't set the extruder heater temp. Everything else works fine. I can get the extruder heater to work fine via Pronterface, so guessing there's something a miss with my config file, or web control setup. It seems to be linked to the Tool Select... Uby KimBrown - Ormerod
Having had the Ormerod 1 for sometime now, and it clocking up the miles with me on the road (1000miles/month), and getting bounced about on a ship 50% of it's life, there came a time where the Z axis mounts said enough was enough and ran off to a better place.... (Ok they broke....).... So I've Beefed them up now. Re-printed them with 70% infill, and that has really done wonders (it was quite comby KimBrown - Ormerod
I'm a little confused to be honest.... The Newer Ormerod 2 ships with the new style 200W power supply, and yet there are ATX 600W power supplies up for sale. The 200W claims to give 20Amps (um.... my maths says then it's 240W???). And the 600W ATX gives 50Amps (600/12=50A)... So why the shift to the new style power supplies? (Cos it looks Pretty??? Comes with a fast food vending slot??? Wakes youby KimBrown - Ormerod
Hi, sorry for the late reply.... Dave you know my machine better than me I think....lol Dave is right.... Sometime ago I noticed I could watch the TILT of the BigBlue on my machine to get a reliable point of Z0.... I noticed that when the Nozzle was HOT, and lowered below glass surface level, the BigBlue tilted to the right (please see the pictures). By raising the Z axis by 0.1 at a time I coulby KimBrown - Ormerod
Hi, I use Microswitches. I prefer them... It's a personal choice, and I'm not saying that other methods aren't good. OK well I use the tilt of my Big Blue to trigger the Z axis. It means lowering the the nozzle on to the Glass, but as I use plain glass to print on it works well. Again a personal preference. It also means that I can use glass of any thickness. I've attached my config.g file and hoby KimBrown - Ormerod
Quotedmould OK, attached is a test g-code that exhibits the issue. Made with S3D but hand edited so it will air-run. Openscad file also attached (not required to test). Run this with no filament loaded. No temperatures are set and cold extrude is permitted. No Z height is set. Home X and Y (or XYZ) and run the file with any nozzle height above the bed. It prints two large circles (skirt)by KimBrown - Ormerod
QuoteTreito For the Z axis lower mount there is a redesign by ZPL using Caphead screws to prevent breaking. I made my standard replacement on my Prusa i3 with a 0.4mm nozzle and an infill setting of 70% in Slic3r, with a temp of 210' (a hotter temp allow the filament to bond better (Meld). I found I could tighten up the standard countersink screws very tightly without problem. I also use UHU noby KimBrown - Ormerod
Just in the process of rebuilding my Ormerod. I've actually Bolted the Z axis profile to the Y axis profile, as I move my printer around abit (well about 1200 miles a month, and 2weeks/month in the Atlantic...So it gets some hammer). I used a 6mm Gutter bolt, as they are low profile, and have a 6mm square that locks in to the extrusion nicely. I've found that by tighening the bolt and having a nuby KimBrown - Ormerod
I have a theory about the Nozzle blockages. More often than not I've just snapped the filament to get a fresh end to feed in to the machine. The actual end then becomes quite sharp edged. When this is fed into the machine it scrapes its way down to the nozzle and deposits the PTFE dust in the nozzle it's self. After a few filament changes like that, eventually you end up with enough PTFE dust toby KimBrown - Ormerod
Hi Jon, your right about there being to much force, and the nozzle being impeded (blocked off). Ok here's the things that should help. 1) Heat up the Hotend to 118', then retract the filament totally. That should clear the nozzle of rubbish. Break off the end, as hopefully any rubbish should be stuck to it. You can check it's clear by disconnecting the Feeder tube from the feeder, and heatingby KimBrown - Ormerod
Just done a perfect Print with the new Firmware. One strange thing. I use PronterFace ( USB ) to control the Printer, and while it works ok, it reports Not SD Printing when it is. Seems to be a bug in Pronterface, as the next print wouldn't start, even thou the Printer had been totally powered down, but Pronterface hadn't been. It allowed me to disconnect, then connect, homed all axi, then reportby KimBrown - Ormerod
Cracking stuff Erik.... Many thanks.... The Ormerod is alive again.... Thank you... Must say thou that the stepper motors sound much nicer since the Firmware upgrade.....by KimBrown - Ormerod
Hmmmm I already had tried the T0, but have added it to the end of the config.g file now.... I was using a flavour of 78, but I suspect, there is a wiring change as well? My Extruder heater is still not coming on, nor is the Feeder Feeding..... XYZ are all working fine, and the homing files are working ok, so it's seeing the limit switches, even my Z switch which uses the tilt of the Big Blue..by KimBrown - Ormerod
Hello, thanks for do another update David. Just installed the firmware, and the machine's speeded already up I'm missing something from the config file thou... I think it's the command to select tool, as the Hot End heater won't come on (haven't tried the extruder yet), and no temp reading from the HotEnd. Just combing the earlier threads, as I'm sure I saw it..... If anyone could tell me theby KimBrown - Ormerod
Recently I took advantage of upgrading my Windows 8.1 Laptop (i7 processor) to Windows 10. And to be honest it's been fairly good, except for a couple of things. I should point out I have two Laptops here, and I haven't upgraded the one I use for printing so this is just a guess, but.... The Windows 10 laptop I needed to use in a hurry before going out one evening. I turned it on, and 10 minutesby KimBrown - Ormerod
Hi, Ian's right, but there is a little more to this for you to understand. What is happening is the initial height of the Extruder isn't right. Basically, the glass (or tape if your using it) is blocking off the extruder nozzle. The Extrude is blocking the feeder and it can't push the plastic throu, so it jumps.... What you have to do is get the height right initially (this can be compounded by tby KimBrown - Ormerod
Hi Bob, welcome. Out of the two I personally would suggest the Ormerod. DC42 (one of the leading developers here) has been hard at work developing the Firmware (the software that runs the machine), and it really has improved the usefulness of the Ormerod by leaps and bounds. I do allot of 3D printing work, and have basically worn my Ormerod out. It's had a real hammering, and needs some much neeby KimBrown - Ormerod
Thanks very much for the replys. The Printer kit didn't come with a build manual (which I think is really poor), or an SD card, so I'm flying blind here. The config.g file on the Ormerod was where you could adjust most things for setting up the printer, then there were other files we can call to do things like set up the X axis zero position. But that is the Duet. Guess I'll have to look aroundby KimBrown - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi, I'm new to running Ramps having come from an Ormerod 1. Does the SD card have to have a config.g file to adjust the initial machine settings similar to the Duet on the Ormerod? I haven't finished the build yet, but hoping to power it up late tomorrow. Any suggestions would help please. Apparently it's running the latest software. Thanks, Kim..by KimBrown - Prusa i3 and variants
Just to throw my 2p in the pot.... I ordered a kg of PLA from Galactic Warehouse, but found I couldn't get it to give good results. My reason for ordering was purely my main supplier had run out of stock of the colour I required. The prints I did with this spool of filament nearly all ended up in the bin. I've now got a spool from WeDo3DPrinting (the supplier I like to use), and ever thing is gooby KimBrown - Ormerod
My Printer gets allot of vibration when I'm as work and it's sat on the cabin desk onboard ship, but I think I only ever had the filament break once (where ever the printers been used), and that was at the entrance of the PTFE flexi tube (before the feeder). I think it got knocked to be honest, so can't really count it. Sometimes the filament is left in the machine for a week or more without beiby KimBrown - Ormerod
Hi Dave, will this latest firmware work ok with an O1 using microswitches for the axi, and a single nozzle.? I'm running 0,78za at the moment so it'll be a big step forward (I haven't looked in the forum for some time, so missed allot I think). I suspect the config file has changed allot, so is there a default one with the update? Thanks, Kimby KimBrown - Ormerod
QuoteSardi Thanks guys. I have just cleaned the nozzle three times following the instructions on RepRap Troubleshooting page. One thing is for sure - the gears dont start to jam until the filament reaches the nozzle, should I dismantle the hot end and inspect the nozzle for debris by hand? It stopped jaming all of a sudden. Will try a print and see if the problem is fixed. Hi Sardi, it soundsby KimBrown - Ormerod
Hi Sardi, I had something similar a while back, where the item didn't have time to cool, and I placed two columns (one either side of the item) about 3 or 4cm away from it and that cured the problem. If you use one column, then the item to be printed get added time to cool when printing in one direction, but no extra time when printing in the other. I'd also use a slightly lower temp for the Extrby KimBrown - Ormerod
Hi David, still running 0.78v here, but plan to upgrade to the new one.... Thanks for the hard work. The printer here has been relegated to a cold but dry garage over Christmas as we needed the space, so the machine felt like a block of ice when I set it up. Had it plugged in to the Laptop here, all powered up, but not talking to each other (via US. And it was while I was mounting the Spool ofby KimBrown - Ormerod
Hi Bitfield, I have had exactly the same gap in my prints. Check your feeder. I found that the replacement feeder I was using (the original that I'd calibrated had worn out, but the replacement used the same parts) was only feeding in 99mm on a 100mm advancement. When I adjusted the rate to give 100mm the gaps vanished. Bare in mind that 1mm of raw filament equates to approximately 3 to 4mm of Noby KimBrown - Ormerod
I use Microswitches for all my Homing Functions, and they are 99.9% reliable. On the Z axis I use the Tilting of the Extruder to trigger the switch. If you look on my ThingyVerse pages you will find the wiring diagram and right angled printed bracket I use on my BigBlue Fan Duct. (I'm hoping over the cricklemas period to get some free designing time to produce a New Big Blue Design. I have seenby KimBrown - Ormerod