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Yup. Entire build is enclosed and will have multi section temperature regulation with heaters.
by
iamdarkyoshi
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Reprappers
So I am finally finishing my scratch-build printer. All I have is ABS filament so I need a heated bed. The head has exactly 7x7in of print area, what glass sheet and PCB should I use for a 12v supply? I already have a thermistor from my old printhead, so I just need a PCB based heater and glass. I am done with standard glass and nichrome wire causing the glass to crack
I would prefer amazon lin
by
iamdarkyoshi
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Reprappers
I havent heard of that before. I will keep it in mind. Also, I forgot to specify that I wanted to use a graphical LCD. First, I have to fix my motherboard on my pc. its a 120$ used motherboard and a faulty dvi cable released the magic blue smoke from a SOT23 package near the port. Time to break out the desoldering braid...
by
iamdarkyoshi
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General
The trick, I have found, is to use a SLOWER retraction speed. Mine is 25mm/s retraction on my mini-massive gearbox bowden extruder.
by
iamdarkyoshi
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General
Hello everyone. I am rebuilding my 3d printer from scratch. I cam taking a similar approach that 3Dprintedlife on YouTube took where one starts with a cheap printer (twoup), learn how they work, and then build a new one. He is using a Ramps 1.4 board, but started with a Printrboard. I want an LCD for mine (full graphic LCD) and I cant seem to find a good guide for making one work on a printrboard
by
iamdarkyoshi
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General
Configure the slicer to use extruder1 and have the same settings for both?
by
iamdarkyoshi
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General
QuoteKurzaa
Leaning towers? Are delta printers Italian?
Ha. I see what you did there.
by
iamdarkyoshi
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General
I always home te nozzle, then slip a piece of tissue paper under the nozzle. Then I adjust that corner of the bed until I can feel friction from the nozzle. I will then repeat this for each corner, and then repeat the process again. As the print starts, I like to manually adjust the leadscrew during the skirt so it is a good height.
by
iamdarkyoshi
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General
Print slower, and hotter. Also, as for the stringing, try SLOWER retraction. This was the trick for mine, as well as acceleration values. But mine is not a delta... I would at least try a slower retraction and hotter temps. Make SURE THERE IS NO DRAFTS!!
by
iamdarkyoshi
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Printing
Was there by chance, any remaining flux residue? Some flux is somewhat conductive. I learned this the hard way.
by
iamdarkyoshi
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Safety & Best Practices
I always overbuild stuff. My 6A bed is being run from 8 gauge super flexible ptfe core car audio wire and it is soldered directly on the controller. Obviously such a massive wire gauge is overkill, but is is super bendy and it stays stone cold. Good luck with your wiring and be careful!
by
iamdarkyoshi
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Safety & Best Practices
QuoteIMBoring25
When our SST 768 at work won't reuse a modeling base it comes after a bed-leveling routine, so it seems to be because it has decided the base is either bent, twisted, or both. There is likely a limit to how much you can deform the base while removing the parts before it takes a permanent set and your model of machine may even be more critically affected by the heat cycles. It wo
by
iamdarkyoshi
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General
I know the filament cartidges use some sort of chip (that can be bypassed by making an image of the machine's hard drive, using the filament, then flashing the previous image) but I just scanned over one of the beds and there are no contacts or embedded metal that I could detect with a HDD magnet. And there shouldnt be. The vendor claims "recycleable print platforms" to make it seem like less of
by
iamdarkyoshi
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General
Our school uses one of these printers, but only rarely as the beds can only be used once, and they arent cheap. Does anyone know how to fool the machine into printing on a used bed that has been cleaned off? My teacher says that no matter how well cleaned, it can tell that the bed has been used and refuses to use it.
by
iamdarkyoshi
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General
I think that 1.75mm filament can be extruded more precisely at slower speeds. if you are pushing out a constant volume/s, the 3mm would have to move slower than the 1.75mm. also, get an E3D V6 Bowden hotend. This printhead is AWESOME!! Granted, I have only used it and an Anubis clone. Discount code "reprap" if buying from filastruder.
by
iamdarkyoshi
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General
My printer hangs if my PC does something CPU intensive. Even switching between the manual control and preview tabs tends to make it stutter if it is a large print being viewed. I know it isn't the PC because it has way more horsepower than necessary. It is my personal gaming rig that does the printing. Is your printer using a USB hub? if so, make sure to plug it directly into the PC.
by
iamdarkyoshi
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Printing
I didnt know they made clear ABS. Are you sure it isnt PLA? You can tell by the temperatures. heat up a PLA part on the heated bed and it should soften at 60 degrees.
by
iamdarkyoshi
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Printing
my firmware is UPMarlin, for my twoup that is barely a twoup anymore. I used "100k EPCOS - Not as accurate as table 1 (created using a fluke thermocouple) (4.7k pullup)"
It was the best match for my Anubus clone. I bought an E3D V6, and made a heated bed from the Anubis thermistor. My original table read 275 when it was actually 235, and the values met equal at about 40 degrees.
by
iamdarkyoshi
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General
Quoteaduy
you know i was also thinking about cheap servos, but the issue is that they can only rotate so much, but if you took the pot inside the motor and then replaced it with a long slider, then it could accurately position itself on each axis. well the only problem is finding long cheap sliders.
What about the encoder strip that inkjet printers use?
[2.bp.blogspot.com]
by
iamdarkyoshi
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General
I just tried different tables for mine and used multiple temperature reference points from a thermostat with a desoldered temp sensor. tried different tables until the displayed value and the thermostat displayed the same thing (or close to)
by
iamdarkyoshi
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General
A sheet of scanner glass with nichrome on the back and gluestick on the top does extremely well for me. No need for anytning else and the gluestick lasts many prints.
by
iamdarkyoshi
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General
I hate buying electronics off of ebay if I actually want them to work. How about this one:
Edit: Nevermind, it is over the price range. I dunno what then. Perhaps go for one of printrbot's smaller printers?
by
iamdarkyoshi
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General
They have a more expensive version made of acrylic plastic of various flavors. They look absurdly cool, especially the transparent ones. Everything that can be lit by LEDs must. I have experiance with this printer (the MDF one), I have practically rebuilt the whole thing without spending extra. But after just a few mods such as the pulley mod, it works as well, if not better, than my school's $25
by
iamdarkyoshi
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General
Qbed twoup arrived 2 days after order. They often dont have any kits in stock though. look on amazon. Also, their upgrade kits (website only) plus the base kit is actually cheaper than the full kit, strangely.
by
iamdarkyoshi
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General
I have a homemade printer using a printrboard. The new power supply is a 36A server power supply (my stock 10A struggled with the 100w HPB ) and I have the supply hardwired on, similar to an ATX PSU's green wire. Can I somehow power the printerboard's logic circuitry over USB and have the marlin firmware configured to enable the power supply when needed, and otherwise switch it off? I would reall
by
iamdarkyoshi
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General
I havent had any issues with it, and the driver chips have overcurrent/overheating protection (or they are supposed to. Dont want to test this). This board contains 0% heatsink. My main complaint is that the cpu couldnt run a delta printer. Not enough horsepower. But the board will run anywhere between like 10-20 volts, so you could use a 16v power supply and the heaters would warm up faster. Als
by
iamdarkyoshi
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General
Quotewes1007
Im guessing you have one of those melzi boards?
I am actually using a printrboard clone. Got it with a 280$ printer.
by
iamdarkyoshi
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General
Try making some parts out of hardwood. With proper machines, the structure and temperature capeabilities are great.
by
iamdarkyoshi
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Printing
My printer is using a 1.75mm genuine e3d v6 bowden, and my drive is just a stepper/gear assembly from a scanner with the hobbed pully mounted to the final gear.
by
iamdarkyoshi
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Printing
I hope I dont pop my drivers... my entire printer is run off of one board. Granted, I do know how to do surface mount soldering. My drivers never have to do much work, and they are always cooled with a fan. My goal with electronics is to keep temperatures well below their maximum reccomended temps. If it is too hot to touch, it is too hot. What caused the driver to pop anyway?
by
iamdarkyoshi
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General
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Pages: 1234