QuoteReplace So, why is a 16V polyfuse more dangerous than a 12V car fuse on a 20V power line ? Because the car fuse can not get on fire ? Because a car type fuse is not voltage sensitive it will blow at a certain current whereas a polyfuse when fed with to much voltage at it's trip points can burst into flames.by dougal1957 - RAMPS Electronics
Quotenick001 HI Garfield, thank you very much for the reply. The system we purchased is the Aurora Z605 Prusi I3. We can not find out in the documentation what we have for the hot end element and Thermal Resister. The Parts List does not indicate specifics on the Hot End, which is the reason we are having difficultly. We are using setting 8 in Marlin Configuration.h for the hot bed and theby dougal1957 - Reprappers
Quotebryanandaimee I've alway been amazed at the level of support provided by Repetier to users and developers. The response time for issues is very quick in my experience. I hope the changes are effective in keeping Repetier software on a solid footing. I can absolutely see why the software went closed source. If this were a hobby level effort with one dev spending < 20 hr per week or a larby dougal1957 - Repetier
Quotedc42 Quotepaveldvor David, this is great news, i was folowing you eagerly, i'm going to try to convert my delta tomorow in the evening. Hopefully i can comlete it soon. Thank you for your great work, this is a great milestone for DUET electronics. Pavel Thanks, Pavel! It's nice to know that someone else will be using this. I've checked in some more work into my delta branch so that the biby dougal1957 - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 Hi Doug, implementing CoreXY kinematics would be a piece of cake compared to Delta. The Duet+DueX4 can handle 5 extruders and hot ends, so it could handle a Kraken. I don't know how the cost would compare with the RADDS+extension+Arduino Due (btw does that give you Ethernet and control over the stepper motor currents? Duet firmware already supports mixing extruders. It occurs to me thby dougal1957 - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 Hi Les, the Smoothie looks like a nice board and people seem to like it. The only problem I can see is that the web interface is rather primitive as far as I can tell from the documentation. But I expect someone will write a better one. How much did you pay for your Smoothieboard? The European supplier appears to charge a fair bit more (Eur110+VAT for the 4XC) than RepRapPro charges foby dougal1957 - Delta Machines
QuoteDaniel Pfau Yes i used the online configurator! Here is the file... It is the Configuration.h file that is needed not the .ino file.by dougal1957 - Reprappers
QuoteAndyCart Hi Guys I've uploaded a video of Cherry Pi IIIS Metal printing at 120mm/s I've also put together a calibration guide (attached) hopefully you will find it useful for setting up your machines. Andy Excellent guide saves me asking for one Thanks Dougby dougal1957 - Delta Machines
Quoteairkuld Thanks for the insight! Can you suggest any options to an SSR? Does it make a difference if I switch the secondary, not the primary? Firstly will your Transformer supply enough current ? will need to be around 10 amps I would guess but not knowing the kapton heater you are using it is hard to tell. Also if you measure the output from your fullwave rectifier I would expect to sby dougal1957 - Reprappers
QuoteFpex As the title said, which is the best electronics for the four head kraken head? I was planning to use the duet plus expansion board, but it seems to have problems with temp stability readings from the expansion board. Thanks for any suggestion, Francesco RADDS board with radds ext board on a DUE is about your only option if you want 32 bit controller or I believe there are mods to thby dougal1957 - Controllers
QuoteSteveRoy QuotePedroB Obviously not a showstopper but i am playing around with g-godes and wanting to set up custom buttoms in Pronterface. M107 should turn off extruder fan but dosen't. Any advice? Thanks, Peter M107 will turn off the print fan on D9. The extruder fan as shown in your image is 12v always on. Beat me to it Dougby dougal1957 - Reprappers
QuotePedroB Obviously not a showstopper but i am playing around with g-godes and wanting to set up custom buttoms in Pronterface. M107 should turn off extruder fan but dosen't. Any advice? Thanks, Peter You should never really turn of the Extruder fan but just to try a trouble shoot this how is it connected to the Ramps (I Am assuming now that it is ramps?) I suspect you have it connected to thby dougal1957 - Reprappers
QuotePointy I have decided to go down a completely different road and build a Cherry Pi III. One of thing's I wasn't so keen on with the Mini Kossel is the 15mm Aluminium extrusion. The Cherry Pi III uses 20mm Aluminium extrusion, which apart from being a bit stronger I have plenty of fittings for it. I have also decided to go with the Smoothieboard. Wish me luck! Regards, Les Good luck mateby dougal1957 - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 Quotedougal1957 Quotedc42 The 100 degC or so that you need on the hot bed for printing ABS is too hot for cooling the SSR. Thought that may be the case If I was to use one it would go under my Bottom plate underneath the printer along with the rest of the Electronics PSU's and motors but as my heatpad is a 400mm x 400mm 230V AC Silicon heater it shouldn't be anywhere near the same issuby dougal1957 - Controllers
Quotedc42 The 100 degC or so that you need on the hot bed for printing ABS is too hot for cooling the SSR. I am tempted to design a heat bed switch that has a much lower voltage drop than an SSR but still provides isolation. But I suspect that the demand would be too low to make it worth my while having some built. Thought that may be the case If I was to use one it would go under my Bottom plaby dougal1957 - Controllers
Quotedc42 Quotedougal1957 Quotetwicx That's a damn sight cheaper. I might go for that, or, at the very least, use it as a reference for finding what i need. Thanks again! I quoted this earlier in the thread and DC42 did say that they have a high Voltsdrop across them so you may have to increase your supply Volts to it or use a slightly lower resistance on your bed to compensate for it (I am noby dougal1957 - Controllers
Quotetwicx That's a damn sight cheaper. I might go for that, or, at the very least, use it as a reference for finding what i need. Thanks again! I quoted this earlier in the thread and DC42 did say that they have a high Voltsdrop across them so you may have to increase your supply Volts to it or use a slightly lower resistance on your bed to compensate for it (I am no expert on SSR's and I planby dougal1957 - Controllers
Quotetwicx Quotedc42 No, not for the heated bed/relay section. But you will probably need a load on the 5V output from the ATX supply to keep it happy. If you will be using an LCD display, the backlight of that display may be enough load for the 5V output, and by connecting the backlight there instead of to the Rumba 5V output, you will keep the 5V regulator on the Rumba cooler. Ok grand. My insby dougal1957 - Controllers
QuoteAndyCart Hi Baz Your design looks good. What are you using for the tower carriages? V wheels? Andy Looks to me like he has HWIN Style linear rail and carriages on there if so they are expensive.by dougal1957 - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 Quotecalmasacow What board would you recommend. Keeping in mind the printer type "Large Delta" and Software solution "MatterControl"? Sorry, I don't know the "MatterControl" software, so I can't advise you. Given a free choice of software, if the motors you choose are happy with 1.2A or less, then I would choose the Duet board - but that's because I am writing the Delta firmware for itby dougal1957 - Controllers
QuoteDFix1 Today i have installet RepetierHost. The manual control works fine! Is there any way to calibrate my printer without the lcd? Yes there is You can insert the figures directly into the eeprom of the board by using the Config-firmware EEPROM Configuration part of Repetier Host (This does of course rely on you having set the option to use the eeprom to 1 in the config file) if you uby dougal1957 - Controllers
QuoteIkiwi Thank you both! I will try this type of connector, @cdru: Yes this is true, but i have seen a lot of thouse connectors on nema 17 so i thought it will be good to mention it. Of coures this is not a "connection standard" Sometimes it is better than nothing Sincerly Ikiwi Note that some NEMA motors don't have connectors at all and just have the wires coming out of a hole if they dby dougal1957 - Controllers
QuoteIkiwi Dear community, What I need to buy are the plugs that are used with the Nema 17 stepper motors. It reads in the description, that most of the stepper motors have "S6B-PH-K" build in. But after searching this term it only gives me connectors to buy, but what i need are the plugs. And this is somehow impossibe to find for me. Can somebody please tell me what they are called, and whereby dougal1957 - Controllers
Quoteekaggrat I cant seem to find the pcb files for RADDS .. I thought it was open source according to the wiki.... You could always purchase a ready to go one from Radds board for 50 eurosby dougal1957 - Controllers
QuoteKeyserSoze3d QuoteNargousias Going over Thingiverse and am definately going to print this next. My fingers still hurt from the assembly. Allen Key Handle I learned from my RC helicopter days that those L keys are sent from the devil. I got some of these hardened steel hex keys a ratchet handle and never looked back. Steel Hex Drivers I use something like these Hex Drivers They are alsby dougal1957 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBonscha Here's a video, maybe you see if we do something wrong. First off you have no endstops connected this will inhibit the motors if they are triggered with it all connected as you had it send the ramps a M119 commend to get the states of your endstops and report back?by dougal1957 - Reprappers
Quotewednesday Thanks Doug. Yeah I had used the configuration tool and even uploaded the config H from my original Azteeg control board settings to speed things up. That's why this was so frustrating, no configuration changes made any difference and everything else appeared to check out too. However, this afternoon at work I finally had my "Homer Simpson" moment. The endstops on my printer are dby dougal1957 - RAMPS Electronics
Quotewednesday Ok I have gone over my endstop settings again and again. They should be correct. I'm still not getting anything out of the steppers tho, not even a buzz or a hiss. I'm willing to bet it is something very basic and obvious to someone. Probably a matter of having the enable stepper feature in the config H wrong. Can anyone educate me on this section of code please? Quote #defineĀ Xby dougal1957 - RAMPS Electronics
Quotestustu242 Hi all, I was after some community input on one simple, but big decision on my next 3d printer build. I am designing a 3d printer that I plan on being very good, as in using more metal parts for a more rigid build and using SC10UU bolted to carriages RATHER than LM8UU bearings zip tied to printed carriages. I am copying many aspects of the Stratasys uPrint SE Plus printer. (I haveby dougal1957 - Reprappers
You have pluged your driver board (Stepstick) in the wrong way round the pot should be away from the mosfets. You have probably blown it but can't say for sure. see Warning's HTH Dougby dougal1957 - RAMPS Electronics