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People building or using RepRaps.
Re: M3 grub screws don't fit - 7 years ago
Worth noting it's usually good to use non-grub screws when you can. If you have the space, put in full-size socket-cap screws. You can get more torque with less chance of stripping. Just be sure to grind or cut the ends for a better gripping profile.by epicepee - General
Re: be a superman! JetPack Aviation: Take to the Skies with 3D Printed Parts
- 7 years ago
I have a hard time believing this. Unless it's something like an H202 rocket with flight time measured in seconds.by epicepee - General
Re: Extruder for High temperature Plastic? - 7 years ago
The E3D v6 can probably get to about 600 C if you play things right and swap out the thermistor, since that's when the aluminum heater block melts.by epicepee - General
Re: Short circuited. Arduino or RAMPS? - 7 years ago
It is also, unfortunately, possible that the Arduino is damaged and the pin that controls the bed is stuck high (or low). My recommendation: find the pin on the Arduino that controls the heated bed, see if it changes when it should (i.e. when you turn the bed on or off). Ideally, do this with the RAMPS unplugged from the Arduino.by epicepee - Reprappers
Re: best metal for inductive proximity sensor ? - 7 years ago
Any metal should work. Inductive sensors work by inducing a current, so anything that conducts electricity should work. In theory, inductive range should be proportional to conductivity, making copper the best, aluminum a bit worse, and steel / stainless the worst. In practice, I doubt it matters; any will work well enough.by epicepee - Reprappers
Re: C++ editor - 7 years ago
emacs and vim are perennial favorites of programmers, but both will take some effort to learn.by epicepee - Developers
Re: Is there anyway to make my print quality worse? Not a troll. - 7 years ago
To get the effect like the top of the glass, underextrude and use a single shell with no infill or solid top layers.by epicepee - Reprappers
Re: Linear guide carriages interchangeable? - 7 years ago
MechaBits: how much play do the rails have? How much force can they take before they get rough?by epicepee - General
Re: Coating for woodfil - 7 years ago
Have you tried urethane or an ordinary epoxy coat?by epicepee - General
Re: Heated cooling fan - 7 years ago
Heating a fan sounds more difficult than building a heated bed.by epicepee - General
Re: Linear guide carriages interchangeable? - 7 years ago
MechaBits: I'm unfortunately not able to sell the rail. I might buy a carriage, though, if you're selling.by epicepee - General
Linear guide carriages interchangeable? - 7 years ago
I have obtained an IKO lwl12b linear guide with no matched bearing block, and new blocks look very costly. Would another 12mm bearing block, from another brand of rail, work?by epicepee - General
Re: New E3D V6 (From China) Clogs as soon as PLA Enters - 7 years ago
Just gonna throw in one more voice for E3D. They are awesome, and spend time and money for the betterment of the community. Support them!by epicepee - General
Re: Tri Gorilla motherboard - 7 years ago
Does the board have a second power input for the heated bed?by epicepee - General
Re: 3D pens for serious fabrication - 7 years ago
Has anyone tried pulling the extruder from a Bowden printer and using it as a high-performance pen?by epicepee - General
Re: Arduino 2650 blew up... with RAMPS 1.4 - 7 years ago
It's not too hard to replace a regulator with a soldering iron. I did it after I plugged in an endstop backwards. The regulators are super cheap, and the pads are big.by epicepee - General
Re: CF reinforced nylon!! - 7 years ago
Are you familiar with MarkForged Onyx filament? It is a high-quality, high-cost version of this, and I have had excellent experiences with it.by epicepee - General
Re: we really need a steel printer and this is how we could do it - 7 years ago
It seems that the big reason current 3D printers are cheaper than most similarly-capable CNC machines is that they don't require as much rigidity. Adding milling capability would remove this advantage. So, I doubt it will be practical to mill steel any time soon. If you want cheap, custom metal parts, lost-PLA casting would probably be the most effective way to get them. But it's probably onlby epicepee - General
Re: New Delta Rostock Printing Issue - 8 years ago
Check belt tension, stepper current, and delta_radius calibration.by epicepee - Reprappers
Re: introducing myself - 8 years ago
Thermal runaway protection is baked into most modern firmware. It watches for situations where the thermistor is getting much colder than it should be, e.g. the heater is on but the temperature is staying too steady. Of course, if you want real safety, install a hardware thermal fuse or a second thermistor.by epicepee - General
Re: Grub/set screw in drive gear keeps getting loose. - 8 years ago
File a flat on the stepper shaft. Then, if it fits, use a full-size M3 instead of the grub screw. It'll let you get more torque.by epicepee - General
Re: Vendors I (we) Like. - 8 years ago
E3D. Not only do they make top-notch hardware, they give excellent support and they open-source everything even though it leads to rampant cloning. They pour quite a bit of their profits into R&D, and then use that R&D to make even better designs and products. Yes, it's more expensive than a clone, but if you value your time or the OSHW community it is absolutely worth it.by epicepee - General
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500 - 8 years ago
If the person you are buying from is upping the price after you won the auction, bail. It's likely a scam, and you should be able to get one for a more open price.by epicepee - General
Re: PSU for micro sized delta printer - 8 years ago
It looks like you have this roughly sorted out. If you get a cheap PSU, over-spec it by at least 30%. If it's brand-name, you can cut it closer. One strategy would be to separate the PSU. Put a female barrel jack on the printer and just plug it in like you would a laptop. Yes, this adds a separate piece, but it's not too hard to move and it gives a very professional feel.by epicepee - General
Re: Question about heated bed - 8 years ago
You can probably run the heated bed through the RAMPS, but it's a lot of current. A nice alternative is to wire up a MOSFET to switch it on and off. It's cheaper and more reliable than an SSR, and takes up less space.by epicepee - Developers
Re: PetG Warping - 8 years ago
Get the bed hotter. Make sure it's clean and level. Rig up a heated chamber if you can.by epicepee - General
Re: New RepRap - 8 years ago
Scavenge all the things. Motors, encoders, linear guides, wood and screws, power supply.by epicepee - Reprappers
Re: Best support Material for ABS - 8 years ago
Limonene is a relatively common solvent, and it's quite safe. It's made from citrus peels. It's not very expensive, unless you get lab-grade.by epicepee - Printing
Re: CoreXY speed settings - 8 years ago
What motors and drivers are you using?by epicepee - General
Re: How is heatbed PCB bonded to aluminium? - 8 years ago
One common DIY way to do this is 3M double-sided adhesive. Factories might do that as well.by epicepee - Developers