Either power down and reverse your plugs or change the direction in your firmware.by jrcaster - Reprappers
At a minimum I would say that you fried the mosfet on the RAMPS. Also check your power supply. Funny thing is that if you don't figure out what is gone, you can ruin any new boards by swapping out one board at a time. Folgertech has the complete set of boards (RAMPS, 5 A4988 drivers, and Arduino mega) for $42.00. Your stepper motors should have managed to survive, as well as the extruder andby jrcaster - Reprappers
Try the -5.2 and let us know what happens.by jrcaster - Reprappers
Try your Z probe offsets.by jrcaster - Reprappers
Your tip might be clogged. Find a welding tip cleaner. The smallest wire will run through a .4 nozzle, and the second wire will run through a .5 nozzle. You might also be trying to run at too high of a speed. If you are getting no adherence, your tip might be too far from the bed. Recheck your Z hight calibration. A lot of people like to use a piece of paper to set their hight, I like toby jrcaster - Reprappers
The red laser that you see does not line up with the infrared laser that reads the temp at close range. Also shiney surfaces don't read right. To get a closer to actual reading on the hotend try rotating the thermometer sideways and see if that helps.by jrcaster - Printing
What filament are you using that takes 280 degrees? Also in Marlin I think that the max temp for the extruder is set to 275degrees. Remember these are celsius and a lot hotter than you think. ABS runs at 220C and PLA at 195C.by jrcaster - Reprappers
Clean your extruder tip. I use a welding tip cleaner. The smallest wire works with a .4mm tip, and the second one works with a .5mm tip. You should be able to pick one up at Lowes or your local home center, or harbor freight.by jrcaster - Reprappers
A few things I forgot to note last night: On the first print the X axis made a lot of binding noise, I lubricated the X axis by placing a drop at a time of Singer sewing machine oil each on both smooth rods and let the bearings drag through the oil. After a few drops for each bearing (LM8UU) the X axis became quiet. My X axis stepper was getting hot so I pointed a fan on the stepper. After thby jrcaster - Prusa i3 and variants
I finally got a successful print of something other than the cube. I e-mailed the support department at Folger and the first thing they mentioned was to run a wire through the tip. I used a welding tip cleaner, the smallest wire is just at .4mm. I couldn't get it through so I drilled it out with a #77 drill bit. This read at .42mm so it was close enough. I then ran the tip cleaning wire thby jrcaster - Prusa i3 and variants
I finally got the test cube to print properly. I had to change the extrusion rate to 120%. After that I had to drop the extrusion speed from 20mm per second down to 15mm in Repitier. Then I tried to print a spool roller that was listed earlier in this thread. Slic3r would not slice it properly and Cura I still can't get to print. I came across a spool roller that is to be printed in two piecby jrcaster - Prusa i3 and variants
JSR82, You either flip the connector or you change the configuration.h file. you do not do both.by jrcaster - Prusa i3 and variants
Don't forget the heated bed, and decent extruders seem to start out at $50 or so minimum. Your smooth rods need to be close, but the threaded rod I would start out on the long side.by jrcaster - Reprappers
Fnally, another succesfull print, to a point. Here is what I came up with. First thing i tried was to change the Vref for the extruder driver. I tried from .25V to .40V and it seemed like the sweet spot was at .35V. Still jumping. The next thing I did was to remove the tip while it was hot so I could remove what filament was left. I used a thick leather glove to keep from getting burned. Wby jrcaster - Prusa i3 and variants
Go to reprap.org/wiki/Melzi This should give you all the information you need on that board. Most of the time on Marlin you don't have much control over your axes until you home them.by jrcaster - Reprappers
The rods won't help you. It's the bearings, you could try squirting a little sewing machine oil into the bearing before you place it on the rod.by jrcaster - Reprappers
Remove your wire from the pad, then take a small amount of epoxy and glue and clamp the pad back down. After it sets, preferably over night, scrape a small amount of coating from the trace that runs to the pad. When you solder the wire back onto the pad, make sure to bridge the solder over to the trace. Then make sure to add some sort of strain releif. This should keep your wires from breakinby jrcaster - Prusa i3 and variants
@ Booda If you are getting 0 ohms across your heatbed thermister leads your thermister is somehow shorted. remove the thermister connector from your ramps board and measure again. You can measure this at the soldered connections on the edge of the heat bed. Make sure you don't have anything shorting it out such as foil or anything metal you might be using to shield the carraige. The resistanby jrcaster - Prusa i3 and variants
Acrylic will not work. The Prusa I3's that use acrylic as the carriage have been warping if it is not insulated from the het bed, and you do not want to glue the print surface to your heat bed either. If the print surface gets damaged, warped or cracked, you could lose the heatbed also. Your best choice is to find your local home center like Lowes or Home Depot, and get them to cut a piece ofby jrcaster - Reprappers
Still not getting good prints. The extruder is ticking and each time the filament jumps up a little. With PLA it causes thin extrusion that doesn't adhere properly. With ABS it still does it but not as bad. Using ABS I can hold a little pressure on the filament and get it to complete the print. It seems like it doesn't have enough clamping presure from the V grooved bearing. Is there any waby jrcaster - Prusa i3 and variants
If you run into any troubles putting your kit together go over to the Folger i3 Prusa thread and on page 29 is a reference page that someone has put together including manuals, videos, and the most popular prints of the thread. It is not your exact printer but it may help you to get out of a bind.by jrcaster - Reprappers
Finally got my printer running today. Thursday I got the thermisters in the mail, surface mounted, and replaced the bad one. Yesterday I found the cork tiles at Officemax. They were four 12 inch squares in a pack. Each tile is 3/8 inch thick. I cut one down to 214mm square to match the size of the heat bed and notched out the corners. Then I noticed that they didn't fit between the tram andby jrcaster - Prusa i3 and variants
You definately fried the MOSFET driving the heatbed. Start there.by jrcaster - Controllers
Folgertech carries that.by jrcaster - General
If you are still getting power to your LCD while your pc and printer are turned off, your hooked up to a USB 3.0 port that supports charging while the pc is turned off.by jrcaster - Reprappers
Remember your home position is 0,0 for your x,y axis. That means that your opposite corner is 200,200. Measure your offset for your probe to your print nozzle and calculate in millimeters where you want the probe to land. There is also a section you will have to enter the offset to get the printer to print.by jrcaster - Reprappers
Don't forget that you have to use an aluminum bed for that.by jrcaster - Prusa i3 and variants