I have most my post over at another forum for HIC i3 users as we have a lot of users in our local area using the HIC. Currently I'm running a modified version of Marlin 1.1.0-RC6. The Configuration.h file mentioned where PID was defined *twice* was an error on my part, however fixed quite a while ago, good catch.by GeorgeL16 - Prusa i3 and variants
No, I level my bed and set my z-probe manually. Don't trust software...by GeorgeL16 - Prusa i3 and variants
My 3DP12 has standard pitch z-axis screws although re-made by a machinist friend of mine, dead straight with custom motor couplers and using the stock x-axis nuts and other hardware. I have no issues at all in the Z. If you have lead screws or other you will need to edit the Configuration.h file to your specifications. Good luck printing. Cheers...by GeorgeL16 - Prusa i3 and variants
It's "just a configuration file", after finding out what-did-what by researching and tweaking when I first started out 3D printing. Myself being not satisfied with stock firmware, no EEPROM enabled, etc I started my Configuration journey. Again, nothing special however I'm glad it has helped some out. Enjoy.by GeorgeL16 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteeried QuoteGeorgeL16 #define DEFAULT_XYJERK 2.0 // CL: For HIC i3, was =20, (mm/sec) #define DEFAULT_ZJERK 0.4 // (mm/sec) #define DEFAULT_EJERK 5.0 // (mm/sec) --- What that does in the hictop? I made my own configuration too, the only problem I am getting is with the bridges, for example if I print a 1x1 cm cube the top layer starts very craby GeorgeL16 - Prusa i3 and variants
Very good thread and read. I'm still trying to dial in default MAX feed rates and accelerations for my HIC i3 printer. The default MAX values set in the OEM firmware was off the charts i.e. 500mm/sec for the X-Y non-printing move feedrates? So I re-set the MAX X-Y firmware/EEPROM to 120mm/sec what I believe the HIC i3 Reprap will do without tearing itself apart just in case M220 S200 command bby GeorgeL16 - Developers
Jim, Change this in the Configuration.h file and you will jump no more with the LCD control: #define ENCODER_PULSES_PER_STEP 4 // CL: HICi3 =4, was =1, Increase if you have a high resolution encoder #define ENCODER_STEPS_PER_MENU_ITEM 1 // CL: HICi3 =1, was =5, Set according to ENCODER_PULSES_PER_STEP or your liking Chip ---by GeorgeL16 - Reprappers
QuoteJamesK Looks like a typo in the new E0 dir pin, the old E1 dir pin was 34, you've got the new EO pin as 38 You are correct sir. Good news is extruder is working off E1 now. Question: does the extruder ever feed then appear to retract a little while manually feeding using the LCD-Prepare->Move at 220c and slowly stepping it a 1mm at a time? In other words I can fell a slight 'chunking'by GeorgeL16 - Reprappers
Me stupid, when you #define something, at least put it in order. E1 now moves the extruder, however no matter if you input a +E or -E move it retracts the filament, never feed it into the hot end. Man... more code to go through. Proper pins_RAMPS_14.h edit here: / CL: swap E0 and E1 outputs to use E1 instead of E0 outputs uncomment below: #define SWAP_E0_WITH_E1 // normal mode = comment out!by GeorgeL16 - Reprappers
Well, the above did not work still outputs on E0, however is now stuck displaying "Heating..." on the LCD. More to code to go through... Chip ---by GeorgeL16 - Reprappers
Fixing to give this a try. Man, the motherboard type is getting crazy in the code trying to follow it! pins_RAMPS_13.h just includes pins_RAMPS_14.h... damn. file: pins_RAMPS_14.h // CL: swap E0 and E1 outputs to use E1 instead of E0 outputs un-comment below: #define SWAP_E0_WITH_E1 // normal mode = comment out! #ifdef SWAP_E0_WITH_E1 #define E0_STEP_PIN 26 // CL: now assigned to E1by GeorgeL16 - Reprappers
Interesting, for reference here is my worksheet where I record and keep a track of Slic3r and Cura settings, along with current EEPROM settings. Maybe it will help. Also, try printing at max 40mm/sec and set non-printing move speeds to max 120mm/sec. I use 40mm/sec and 80mm/sec for defaults. Chip ---by GeorgeL16 - Prusa i3 and variants
First off, I have only been into 3D printing for 2 months and no where a expert in the field, however I'm an engineer by trade and have been coding longer that I want to mention. This is just a very small summary of getting a HICi3 from just the box quality, to a pretty darn good printer, at least in my book... My current HICi3 with multiple calibration test objects printed yesterday, there areby GeorgeL16 - Prusa i3 and variants
Have had my HICTOP Reprap Prusa I3 black aluminum frame printer for about 2 months and have tweaked and refined it. Yesterday downloaded Marlin 1.1.0-RC5 and got the firmware uploaded and is performing great. I use custom stainless machine shop straight z-axis rods with standard 8mm x 1.25mm pitch, the OEM ones were junk. Do not use OEM firmware, have horror stories include my own, source woulby GeorgeL16 - General
James, Just FYI: I'm an old school machine coder, Basic, Fortran, Cobol, DOS, Unix, Linux, C... so I guess I dated myself . Firmware source is currently a month old version of Marlin 1.1.0-RC4-DebugFix source after giving up on the OEM 'China' supplied source which was very buggy. Much has changed in code structure here, I for the sake of me cannot understand why they do not have what I callby GeorgeL16 - Reprappers
QuoteJamesK You can configure the firmware to just use the E1 pins/driver instead of E0, no need to try and fake up dual extruders for that. First thank you very much for at least letting me know it is possible to swap a single extruder printer to be enable to be driven by the E1 controller instead of the default E0. OK, making sure I understand completely understand firmware wise. Here the nuby GeorgeL16 - Reprappers
The controller is a HICTOP single board with the stepper drivers built into the board. If the driver fails, it will require a new board. I may purchase a RAMPS 1.4 board on-line that has external driver modules for replacement without replacing the whole controll board. Have designed stepper motor assemblies over the years, however it has been a long time. They are not complicated to interfacby GeorgeL16 - Reprappers
In configuration.h, what type of thermistor are you all setting. I have original 'China' supplied source code that defines it as a type '3', however updated and other sources are showing a type '1' thermistor. Also, I ran the internal firmware PID test and once updating the values, my nozzle time is more stable. Anyone else do this?by GeorgeL16 - Reprappers
When printing the test object, what slicer were you using and do you care to share your settings? Thanks Chip ---by GeorgeL16 - Reprappers
Hello fellow HICTOP'ers, Have been learning this machine for a few weeks and just now getting a hang of it, firmware (currently Marlin 1.1.0-RC4), Z-axis rod upgrade, stock type, but machine shop straight stainless standard 8mm x 1.25mm pitch, turned down ends w/custom couplers, X and Y motor fans, updated 30 amp power supply (along with 12AWG wiring), etc. FYI: if your interested have been posby GeorgeL16 - Reprappers
Bench check the power supply as previously mentioned _prior_ to hooking it up, verify output, etc. Sound very much like a bad PSU.by GeorgeL16 - Prusa i3 and variants
Currently it 'appears' that the controller is faulty. When the X-axis and e-step motors are swapped cable wise AT the controller connectors, the X-axis motor (now e-step) appears to 'chunk' and miss steps, the e-step (now X) seems to work fine. It is also noted that when the X (e-step) motor stops moving, the e-step motor is no longer locked by the controller in a fixed position, it's like a 'dby GeorgeL16 - Reprappers
Fixing to try and swapping out the X-axis motor with the extruder motor, first by swapping cables, then possibly motors. Update later... George ---by GeorgeL16 - Reprappers
HICTOP Reprap Prusa i3 printer has been working fine for about 3 months after learning it, calibration and firmware updates (currently Marlin 1.1.0-RC4). Last night I was re-calibrating e-steps for final firmware update to EEPROM as I have done before now most my calibrations are completed. Well, I accidentally hit the instead of the 1mm move on the manual control using Repetier Host. Even wiby GeorgeL16 - Reprappers
QuoteThinkyhead Quotedc42IMO having to edit the firmware source, re-build it and re-flash it every time you want to change the configuration is ridiculous. Modern electronics/firmware combinations use a configuration file on the SD card instead. Marlin is showing its age. You don't have to re-flash just to change configurations. You only have to re-flash if you want to add or remove a feature, tby GeorgeL16 - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Howdy, I AM new here... I am a member of our local BB-8 builders, Astromech.net, Replica Prop Forums (RPF), et. all... I build astromechs/droids, lightsabers, etc. I will tell you one thing, as an engineer and designer, I am VERY surprised I have gone this route, nor done this before now, buying and LEARNING how to use a 3D printer. My current (and only) model is the HICTOP Re[Rap Prusa I3 tby GeorgeL16 - Reprappers