Quotehobbes hi guys, i've had my folger tech prusa for almost a year now and i've noticed that, to get a proper print quality, i had to keep my nozzle temperature relatively low compared to the general consensus on print temperatures. To get a decent looking PLA print, i have to print as low as 173C. Even at 180C i get unpleasant saggy vertical walls. For ABS, i have printed down to 200C. The samby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteschmuck Mach, That seemed to be the trick, however now I am running into issues with the stepper motors. The instructions fail to say that it doesn't work perfect after that last step, or at least that's how its going in my case. My z axis motors don't want to work in sync with each other. The one closest to the ramps board seems to work better than the of the one of the filament spool sideby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteschmuck Hey guys, So I finally got my printer all built and ready to go except the fan that it came with doesn't seem to want to work. Other than that everything seems to be running according to plan. All lights and displays are coming on. Seemed to be going just fine until I got to the Repetier part. I uploaded the firmware that folger tech had on their google drive and all I got was an erby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteav8r1 A couple extra of this and that are okay, but some of this stuff is really excessive. We never used one of those springs, for example. I guess we're supposed to CAD up and print out some clips to hold the glass plate down? And I'm still not sure where those jelly beans are supposed to go. One thing that wasn't in the kit that should be: An off switch! There are a few things I'llby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWilberMaker Trying to print the mount for the BLTouch. The flange on the part is not supported but just protrudes out in the open. How do you get this to print? The Filament just falls in a birds nest until it gets big enough to support the flange. Sure I'm just missing something stupid. Did you enable supports?by Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMindforrest Quotetjnamtiw QuoteMindforrest HELP! I just put together my Prussa, and I set it all up except for one major problem: the Z axis won't move at all. I checked everything, its built to the instructions, but it won't move. I have been using the manual control on Repetier, and everything else works, (Fan, nozzle, heated bed, X/Y axis) and I probably am missing a main step or somethinby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWilberMaker Almost done with my Folger Tech 2020 i3. I also ordered the display controller with the printer. Where can I find information on wiring and mounting the display? Sorry for the double post I think I'm in the right place now. Here links that should get you on the right track. I know it is not much, but I never quite got mine to quite work properly, this is the best I can do. Repby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteserks644 Two questions for the community here. First I've had a wierd problem with my heated bed where sometimes it will work and sometimes it won't. On closer examination I found that one of the power wires going into the control board was screaming hot, had oxidized and melted both the power connector and the insulation on the wire. So I'm guessing my bed was turning on and off becauseby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteFiddleback Hi, first-time poster here. Finished assembly of my 2020 i3 yesterday, and I'm trying to put plastic down. My hotend has no problem getting up to temp, but my glass plate won't go above 108.5 C. I do see the heat board slightly bowed, so I do plan on remedying that tomorrow. In the meantime, would a 7 degree heat deficit be enough to prevent a print from starting? I have successfby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteSgtRauksauff Yeah, it wasn't just a slightly-large diameter, it actually measured 10mm diameter. FT just needed a photo, for their claims department, and theyr'e sending me an SK8 and new plastics as well (even though I was prepared to start dremelling). Since I can't really work on the physical right now, I'll probably start on the electronics.. is it safe to hook up the RAMPS to power anby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
For those that have done upgrades using openbuilds' v-slot rail, will openbuilds delrin wheels work on the extrusion that folger tech made our printers out of?by Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix I have my bed running at 100c, my printer is fully enclosed, and my hotend is at 240. and im STILL experiencing corner warping! That is annoying. 1. Could printing at 60mm/s cause it? 2. Could not high enough bed temp cause it? 3. Should I print with a brim? I just hate to print with a brim because then it takes me like 2 minutes to clean it up. 4. Maybe I should recheck my z offseby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix Has anybody here upgraded to bowden? And is it worth it? I upgraded to bowden and it work pretty well for me. Some people have mentioned that they do not like bowden because the retraction settings are difficult to perfect.by Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix QuoteUltiFix Changing #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -0.3 literally does nothing... Why? Here is my configuration.h ANY help is appreciated! Please? I have been running g29, then g29z10 then m119 then I lower the extruder in .1mm untill the hotend just starts rubbing up against the paper. Lets say I had to click lower by .1mm 5 times, I set my z probe offset to -.5 is thatby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix I am using autolevel as of saterday, do these look like a decen't upgrade set? These might be a better option if you are in the U.S. The 250mm ones cost about the same, and are the perfect length Leadscrewsby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAgedashi I'm trying to upgrade to therippa's new version of marlin so I can get the full graphics LCD working. I'm porting my settings over but i noticed that the Z-Step value changed from 3840 to 4000. Which one should I be using with the original threaded rods? Thanks! 4000by Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteihaveworms QuoteMach Quoteihaveworms What kind of extrusion multiplier are you all using? I am using 0.7 right now that seems really low, almost like I am doing something wrong. Did you calibrate your extruders steps/mm? Where in the configuration do you set steps per millimeter? "#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT". The parameters are X, Y, Z, E from left to right.by Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMuckYu Stupid question: Sometimes my printer just pauses printing for a few seconds and continues ~10-20 seconds later. Meanwhile the nozzle heats up the already printed layer and a blob forms. (Doesn't look so nice). This happens maybe twice a day. Any ideas what is causing this? Is the PCB heating up too much? Possibly communication errors if you are printing via usb.by Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
I have been trying to get the RepRap full graphics controller to work with repetier firmware version 0.92.8, but I have been having problems getting the UI to work without issues. I am using the arduino mega + ramps combo. The biggest problem I have been having is when some of the features (fan control, retraction, Z-probing and autobed leveling) among others are enabled, and sometimes disabled,by Mach - Repetier
[email protected] Not sure. How can I find out what controller I am using. The arduino is the controller you are using. It is the brains of the printer. To start off; in the arduino IDE (the arduino software), go to tools > board > and select arduino mega 2560. Plug the usb into the arduino, and in the same tool menu as before, go to "port" and select the usb port that the arduiby Mach - Reprappers
QuoteMuckYu Quotetjnamtiw Have you calibrated your extruder? It sounds like you are putting out too much material and it is oozing up around the nozzle. Each layer of over extrusion will compound the problem. Calibrate! Don't use extrusion multiplier as a crutch to hide the real problem of poor calibration. I checked in the EEPROM settings. It was set to 90 mm (didn't have any problems withby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteihaveworms What kind of extrusion multiplier are you all using? I am using 0.7 right now that seems really low, almost like I am doing something wrong. Did you calibrate your extruders steps/mm?by Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix Quotemarc2912 QuoteUltiFix What are the advantages of using rep host over say cura? If you mean repetier host it's not a slicer and still need one, so you'll still need something like cura or slic3r to cut up your stl and create g-code. Sorrry, I mean using cura in rep host or just using cura, as the cura program itself can create g code... I like using cura with repetier because iby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMKSA While going through the numerous 3D printers type, I came to this one and saw it uses only one Z motor, which is fine, but with only one threaded rod on one side and hanging from the motor to which it is attached by a flexible coupler. Can you confirm or did I missed something ? It has two Z axis motors and threaded rods. Can confirm is has flex couplings though.by Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteflatlander I set up my bed for manual leveling using the following approach: It's essentially anchoring the origin; I used an aluminum 1/4" tall spacer at (0,0,0). It seems to have removed the wavy-ness from the prints. With a print count of 3 who knows? Now I need a better z-endstop -microswitch clamp. Off to the thingiverse. I have a few issues with the stock printer. 1. Thereby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMuckYu QuoteMach QuoteMuckYu QuoteMach QuoteMuckYu QuoteMach QuoteMuckYu Quoteflynprints QuoteMuckYu Quotemarkts QuoteMuckYu QuoteMach QuoteMuckYu Ugh, I have yet another problem. I was printing a 3 hours print today. After about an hour in the printer stopped and the Error "MINTEMP" came up on the LCD display. Now the extruder only shows 0/0° ... Anything I can do here? Sounds like your tby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMuckYu QuoteMach QuoteMuckYu QuoteMach QuoteMuckYu Quoteflynprints QuoteMuckYu Quotemarkts QuoteMuckYu QuoteMach QuoteMuckYu Ugh, I have yet another problem. I was printing a 3 hours print today. After about an hour in the printer stopped and the Error "MINTEMP" came up on the LCD display. Now the extruder only shows 0/0° ... Anything I can do here? Sounds like your thermistor has a bad coby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMuckYu QuoteMach QuoteMuckYu Quoteflynprints QuoteMuckYu Quotemarkts QuoteMuckYu QuoteMach QuoteMuckYu Ugh, I have yet another problem. I was printing a 3 hours print today. After about an hour in the printer stopped and the Error "MINTEMP" came up on the LCD display. Now the extruder only shows 0/0° ... Anything I can do here? Sounds like your thermistor has a bad connection somewhere. Chby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMuckYu Quoteflynprints QuoteMuckYu Quotemarkts QuoteMuckYu QuoteMach QuoteMuckYu Ugh, I have yet another problem. I was printing a 3 hours print today. After about an hour in the printer stopped and the Error "MINTEMP" came up on the LCD display. Now the extruder only shows 0/0° ... Anything I can do here? Sounds like your thermistor has a bad connection somewhere. Check to make sure no wiby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMuckYu Ugh, I have yet another problem. I was printing a 3 hours print today. After about an hour in the printer stopped and the Error "MINTEMP" came up on the LCD display. Now the extruder only shows 0/0° ... Anything I can do here? Sounds like your thermistor has a bad connection somewhere. Check to make sure no wires are broken at the thermistor, and that it is securely plugged into theby Mach - Prusa i3 and variants