Quotedroftarts I think I would have probably pressed the heater cartridge into the heater block with the vice, but that's just me. I'd considered that, but I wasn't sure of the best way to do it.... I was concerned that the wires sticking out of the cartridge make it a bit difficult to force in without damaging them... I'd also considered trying to 'crimp' that side of the block in the vice....by shadow651 - Ormerod
I think the rod could only be improved by switching to like Acme threads (or even ball bearing nut threads), which are designed for wear resistance. However, they are sooooo insanely expensive that it's just cheaper (and well worth the hassle) of replacing the rod & Nut now and then. Quotepeter_xm Firstly, the nozzle! It seems the nozzle need to be improved, because this one is not a standaby shadow651 - Ormerod
So, Using the M5 bolt worked great for getting it out. I tried sanding the cartridge down some, but it didn't seem to help. With a caliper I couldn't find any real variation in the cartridge diameter... I concluded that the hole in the block was too small, As stated above, no US stores stock metric drill bits and Amazon's are 2 to 3 months backordered; but there are ones on either side of thby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotedmould 2) The two ground rods that the bed runs on (Y axis) are not exactly parallel in the Z plane. This will have the effect of raising and lowering the front of the bed relative to the back of the bed as it moves in Y. Wouldn't bed compensation points account for this though? Granted it's still not ideal as it would cause a lot of wear on the Z rod....by shadow651 - Ormerod
Your start code in your slic3r needs to specify which extruder to use, you could put it in your config.g file, but It's a better practice to put in in the start code. I know it's kinda weird if you only have 1 extruder, but since the software supports more, that's what it's expecting. In your start code add a line. T1 ; Select Tool (Extruder) 1 I might be wrong thinking that it's tool 1, it miby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotedroftarts Sorry about the packing problems. We've recently introduced a large number of new parts and products - updated Huxley and Mendel printers, new Quickset nozzle (which hasn't been released on Ormerod... yet), while still trying to support old machines with old parts. This has caused a certain amount of confusion for our packers, while they get used to identifying and handling a broadby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotedroftarts Support the heater block from underneath, for examble with the block on top of the jaws of a vice, so the heater cartridge is between the jaws, but not clamped, underneath. Then find an M5 bolt (the hole is 5mm, but the thread is just under this size, so will fit through cleanly), or use the M5 Z leadscrew, and use it as a drift to gently tap the heater cartridge out. Check the heaby shadow651 - Ormerod
So, I finally received the correctly sized tapered brass nut. Now assembling the hot end, I seem to have gotten the heater cartridge stuck in the aluminum heating block.............. It went in with some diffuculty about half way and just got stuck, I can't push it in any further or remove it..... I'm not entirely sure what it's stuck on, maybe some debris or swarf in the hole? I now complby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotejustashaw I have the same issue.... Got an M4 nut instead of the M5. That alone would've been annoying but fine to get replaced. Well... I also got a Y end plate and the main X acrylic parts were broken during shipping. In my initial email, they said they sent out replacements for the acrylic but more than 2 weeks later, still haven't received them. No tracking either. Just got aluminum repby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quoteiamburny All very valid points, I'm sure someone will get there. I wonder if anyone has explored coloring a plain natural colored filament with ink at extrusion time? I heard someone mention the possibility at one point, but I don't think anyone's tried making a prototype. I almost think a pellet extruder would be ideal for that type of coloring.... just have 4 hoppers with concentratedby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quoteiamburny I kind if decided that i'm going to skip the multi-nozzle/colour and wait out the development of a release grade colour filament mixer, I recently read a student end of year project (from 2012) by James Corbett on the subject, a very interesting read, also see this forum thread Matt I'm intrigued by the idea of a mixing hot end, However I believe that a 'perfect world' printer seby shadow651 - Ormerod
Do you really see a big improvement in print quality with the E3D style head? I've been looking at their two color solution, thinking it might be nicer than the RRP kit; but it'll be a while before I think I jump to two filaments.by shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotedc42 2. It works anywhere on the bed, not just on white targets (in fact you have to remove the white targets to use my sensor). Do the targets need to be removed because the bed needs to be uniform in color? or is it something else? I ask because I've been looking at a print bed coating called Eez 3D that's supposed to help with print bed adhesion, but also works with many different matby shadow651 - Ormerod
QuoteDon Recardo HI Dave ( dc42 ) On your first post in this thread you show some pictures of your new Z probe ( which I have and works great thanks) In the pictures you can see the the printed Parts for the heat sink duct, the fan duct, but there is another green printed piece mounted over the blades of the fan. ( it looks like a green square box with fan blades ) What is this piece , what iby shadow651 - Ormerod
Looks interesting, I'll have to give it a try when I get my printer up and running.by shadow651 - Ormerod
I'm not an expert in polymer chemistry, but I did take quite a few chem classes in collage quite recently (though I opted not to take hard-core polymer chem). I wouldn't be surprised if heating a small volume of filament for an extended period of time would cause the polymer chains to either link together or break apart, precipitating a solid which would block the nozzle; esp. when many of thesby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quoteredblunt oh i totaly missunderstood "minimum travel after..." ty for clearing it up for me i will change some settings and a little of my object print and the report back I think that the setting is poorly named, but I think the reasoning behind it is the 'minimum travel after a retraction has occurred, otherwise a retraction won't happen' If you haven't given the slic3r manuel a read thrby shadow651 - Ormerod
Ok, so RRP support just got back to me, email below. But basically, at some point tapered nuts of some different sizes got mixed together. They're going to send me a new one of the correct size. Quote Hi Joseph, Sorry to hear that the nut is not the correct size . We had a problems with the delivery of M5 and M4 tapered nuts where they got mixed up. The correct one is M5 and we will getby shadow651 - Ormerod
So, I've been building my Ormerod 2 kit over this past weekend. But, when I got to the hot end assembly it seems that the tapered brass nut in my kit has the wrong thread size, and won't fit on the nozzle. I'm fairly certain that the nozzle is the right threads because the bowden end and the nozzle fit into the cooling block fine, and the heating block fits onto the nozzle fine. I just couldn'by shadow651 - Ormerod
I've been building mine over the previous weekend, and my experience is that those bearings should be silky smooth when moved individually, and once the table is added. Though once you add the belt connection there is some additional resistance from turning the stepper motor, but it never really 'sticks' I'm inclined to think that maybe something is wrong. But I'll be the first to admit that I dby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotedmould Quoteshadow651 Quotequintesse Quotedc42However, usual practice is to use M1 or similar at the end of a print. Indeed, but it turns out that somebody committed some things to the RepRapPro defaults for Slic3r that they shouldn't have So suddenly instead of M0 there were these "idle" settings that don't work correctly if you don't have an M400 or similar in there. I guess that with laby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quoteredblunt does anyone know if it is possible to set a retract and lift on every travel-move(non printing)? (using slic3r) i noticed on a move that lasts more than like a half second the nozzle drips about 5mm filament. this produces a lot of blops. You'll need to be in advanced mode for slic3r to show some of these settings (I think), but there is a value called 'Minimum travel after retractby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotequintesse Quotedc42However, usual practice is to use M1 or similar at the end of a print. Indeed, but it turns out that somebody committed some things to the RepRapPro defaults for Slic3r that they shouldn't have So suddenly instead of M0 there were these "idle" settings that don't work correctly if you don't have an M400 or similar in there. I guess that with large prints you're not goingby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotexiaoyao9184 Hi everyone I would like to know what accessories Ormerod Dual-colour upgrade kit, someone can provide some pictures? For example, contains several Quick-set nozzle? Brand new 2 Quick-set nozzle, or a One piece stainless nozzle + a Quick-set nozzle I asked the reprap customer service, and “Dual-Colour Upgrade for Ormerod 1” and “Dual-Colour Upgrade for Ormerod 2” differing onlyby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotedmould Quotetstone If you plan to switch often i would recommend get two hotends, this can be replaced with two screws. The extra hotend will need to have its own cold block, Bowden tube with fittings, and its own heater & thermistor wired to a plug to make swapping reasonably quick (I think it would then be 4 screws? Two holding the hot block to the X carriage and two holding the fan,by shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotedc42 Quotedmould I also purchased a 30A 12V PSU (sold for LED lighting - look on ebay) as I could crank it up to 14V to get faster bed heating for ABS, because a PC PSU struggles to achieve the required 110 deg C (but gets there eventually). I did a similar upgrade with a 25A PSU on my Ormerod 1. The Ormerod 2 already comes with a similar 20A PSU. I'm not sure that this would be adequate foby shadow651 - Ormerod
Hi All, I'm looking at getting a 3D printer, and am considering getting the Ormerod 2. I've got a friend who has a flashforge dreamer who can make the PLA parts for me. I'm mainly looking to PLA prints as a hobbyist, but I want the expandability to add another extruder or other modifications as time goes on. I have quite a bit of technical experience, I've assembled computers from parts and canby shadow651 - Ormerod