Quotedc42 You do need to press the Erase button to upload new firmware. However, it would be possible to add an "Erase firmware and reset" gcode sequence to the existing firmware, which would avoid the need to press the Erase button in future. Well, I'd be all for adding a gcode for that function, if it's not too difficult.by shadow651 - Ormerod
QuoteThorsenRune Quoteshadow651 you drill it out with a 2mm drill bit (which probably makes it a bit larger than 2mm) during assembly, I guess this is a very delicate proces which requires special drill and a mounting in a high quality bench drill? It's a step in RepRapPro's instructions, you're only removing the Bowden tube that got compressed by the brass couplers. If you don't do this you cby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotedc42 I've given this some more thought, and I think this (as yet untested) circuit should do the job of shutting the fan off when the PWM is set to zero: I'm assuming the fan PWM frequency is set to 25kHz (the recommended frequency according to the Intel PWM fan specification), which my firmware fork does and I think zpl's does too - I haven't checked RepRapPro 1.09. Note that the diodeby shadow651 - Ormerod
QuoteDarathy what i dislike abaut repetier host is: even if it uses slic3r for slicing it doesnt show layer changes on zombies webinterface. but using slic3r alone does, just easyer to see all information abaut the print. Well, I know the web interface has a glitch right now where if the 1st layer height is 0.5mm it won't show layer changes right..... maybe repetier host is using 0.5mm for the fby shadow651 - Ormerod
I thought that all of the hot end parts had 2.0mm clearance, The bowden is 2mm ID The brass unions on the bowden should be 2mm ID even though the bowden is somewhat compressed, you drill it out with a 2mm drill bit (which probably makes it a bit larger than 2mm) during assembly, The top part of the nozzle is 3mm and goes down to 2mm, then down to the nozzle diameter. And the PETF insert in theby shadow651 - Ormerod
well, most 2 wire DC fans aren't set up to handle PWM because 4 wire fans are the default for accepting PWM variable speed in the PC world. So you have to rig up a (relatively simple) circuit to either make a 4 wire fan work with the 2 wire PWM or get a 2 wire fan working with something like a low pass filter (turning the PWM into a variable voltage signal). Or if you're lucky you might find a 2by shadow651 - Ormerod
As far as I know, repeater host simply calls on slic3rs command line version to generate the gcodes, and then spoon feeds it to the printer. You'd be able to use the slic3r config files provided by RepRapPro, or whatever you've been using with slic3r. I don't know about any config files for repetier host specifically.... so you might have to create that yourself. I think it would work, but if yoby shadow651 - Ormerod
Well setting it to aligned would be a good test to confirm that the issue you're seeing is being caused by the seems. If these defects are the seems they should then be in a line down the object; if the defect remains the same it's something else. I think wipe on retract might help if you're seems are that bad, but not sure. A possible issue, if it's not the seems. If your filament has collecteby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quoteormerod168 Quoteshadow651 I think lifting at corners at the base is from a somewhat different mechanic. I think it's the result of shrinkage in the 'in line' direction of perimeters As each of the perimeters shrink, there's some tension that develops. On shallow corners or rounded corners this never accumulates to enough force to overcome the adhesion to the bed, in fact rounded corners wilby shadow651 - Ormerod
I think lifting at corners at the base is from a somewhat different mechanic. I think it's the result of shrinkage in the 'in line' direction of perimeters As each of the perimeters shrink, there's some tension that develops. On shallow corners or rounded corners this never accumulates to enough force to overcome the adhesion to the bed, in fact rounded corners will cancel out some of the forcesby shadow651 - Ormerod
OK, so I'm having issues getting a pause to work correctly, I'm using Firmware Version: 1.04g-dc42 (2015-04-20) Pre-release of 1.04g for RRP IR probe issue fix Web Interface Version: HTML: 1.06, JS: 1.06 First I found this post Quotezombiepantslol If you're using RRP's official firmware, I think you need to insert "M25" before the Z axis moves to the last layer. You'll have to editby shadow651 - Ormerod
I have to say it sounds interesting, it definitely removes any restrictions on the bed material, I know dark stuff like buildtak can be problematic for IR (although I think dc42 managed to get his probes to work with a sensitivity change) I'm interested in seeing the final version.by shadow651 - Ormerod
DC42 Just out of curiosity, why doesn't the RepRap firmware have PID autotuning like Marlin, Repetier and Smoothie? Is it too complicated? Or just not worth the time because it's easy enough to do by hand?by shadow651 - Ormerod
I don't think there's anything physically wrong with your system, just one of your PID values needs to be adjusted slightly to reduce the slow warm up time. I'm not an expert of PID controllers, but I think you'll probably need to increase the Integral slightly.... Here's what the Wiki says: QuoteFor manual adjustments: if it overshoots a lot and oscillates, either the integral gain needs toby shadow651 - Ormerod
QuoteLDIsection08 Quoteshadow651 Quotedmould Another major issue with the Ormerod 2 has been poor connection to the bed heater board, as it is not a good idea to rely on the bolts to carry the current. A poor connection will cause overheating of the connectors. Depending on when you bought your kit, you may not have this style bed heater. v528.4 and above have a better design with tabs and pusby shadow651 - Ormerod
Keep in mind that the added PTFE will limit your max temp to <327C (melting point of PTFE), however you'd probably have to replace your Thermistor with a thermocouple to go above 300C anyways, and there are very few polymers that need such extreme temperatures. But I thought I'd mention it.by shadow651 - Ormerod
I'd thought the main advantage of PET was that it was easier to source in an FDA approved 'food safe' form. I haven't tried ABS or PET yet, but I've looked around a little bit. I know polycarbonate is very strong, and very hard to print (need thermocouples, all mettle hot ends, printed parts probabley need to be replaced with Polycarb as well) However, if you're finding that part strength is inby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotedmould Another major issue with the Ormerod 2 has been poor connection to the bed heater board, as it is not a good idea to rely on the bolts to carry the current. A poor connection will cause overheating of the connectors. Depending on when you bought your kit, you may not have this style bed heater. v528.4 and above have a better design with tabs and push over connectors. Mine (shippedby shadow651 - Ormerod
QuoteVortyZA If it's like the Prusa and the header block and nozzle are different materials (aluminium and brass eg.), then it's important to heat the nozzle up to a little higher than extrusion temperature and carefully tighten the nozzle against the block. This should stop your leaking which occurs because of the different expansion/contraction rates between the metals. This is a step in instaby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotedc42 I have no problem getting PLA to stick directly to the glass, washed initially in hot soapy water, and wiped with vinegar between prints. The key is getting the right brand of PLA, which for me is esun filament that I buy from Galactic Warehouse. I used zwiss glass wipes, they're presoaked isopropanol lint free wipes. They seem to work fine. In the US I've found hatchbox PLA from amazby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotedmould QuoteLDIsection08 thanks for the tip, I run out to home depot(hardware store) and got a small drill bit kit. I drill the printed part a bit to allow the screw to go thru smoothly. Next time you go to the hardware store, maybe pick up a set of inexpensive needle files, which I find invaluable for trimming printed parts when you need a perfect fit. Dave DItto, there are hobbyist packby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quoteorictosh Yes, using a 4 wire fan and a 2N7000 mosfet is good way to power a cooling fan so it gives variable speed and cooling when needed and requested by slic3r. The yellow wire is not used in this case. Looking at my diagram, I would say the the PWM signal is on the negetive fan0 connection as it connected to gate pin The +12v pin is connected to red (Postive) of the fan The Brown wiby shadow651 - Ormerod
This all makes me wonder how RepRapPro will set up their extra fan that's supposed to mount on the new acrylic fan spacer..... Adding an extra fan is a much bigger ordeal than I'd expected (if you want variable fan control). Although orictosh's second diagram seems simple enough to do, although you're only getting about half speed on the low end (although I suppose performance may vary betweenby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quoteshadow651 Quotedc42 Try the 1.04g preview, available here . I'll also try this out tonight when I get home. I'll let you know if I do or don't see it again This preview version seems to have fixed the problem, Thanks! Edit: after a few hours printing still no issues. I've also noticed that noise on the z probe has been significantly reduced.by shadow651 - Ormerod
I thought filament width was something given in all the info slic3r dumps into comments, but maybe I'm mistaken. I was thinking.... when say google chrome is downloading a large file, it starts saving it as filename.download (or something like that) and only when it's done does it change the file to filename.ext Slic3r could probably be programed to do something similar (i.e. filename.slic3r orby shadow651 - Ormerod
I know it's typically bad manners to revive a thread that's been dead and buried for a this long (almost a year exactly). But I came across this while googling and I've come up with a free solution to the SLDPRT issue. There's a service online called grabcad workbench, it used to cost money but now that stratasys bought the company they've made it free. The service is designed with the idea of aby shadow651 - General
Quotedc42 Try the 1.04g preview, available here . I'll also try this out tonight when I get home. I'll let you know if I do or don't see it againby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotedmould Quoteshadow651 Quotedmould QuoteBenBB Hi Dave OK I think I found the issue, yes indeed it is a combination of Slic3r then pronterface Slick3r exports the file to a Gcode file, but now I see that sometimes it takes a while to export to Gcode then it seems while it is still exporting and I load the file in Pronterface it only loads partially Hence only part of the file is loaded and heby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotedmould QuoteBenBB Hi Dave OK I think I found the issue, yes indeed it is a combination of Slic3r then pronterface Slick3r exports the file to a Gcode file, but now I see that sometimes it takes a while to export to Gcode then it seems while it is still exporting and I load the file in Pronterface it only loads partially Hence only part of the file is loaded and hence uploaded to the SD cardby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotedc42 Try version 1.04f (just released). If that shows the same problem, let me know and I'll try connecting an RRP modulated sensor to my Ormerod to see if I can reproduce the problem. I'm still seeing it on 1.04f. If trying to reproduce, I'd recommend trying to home X from X ~190, you'll see it truncate early.by shadow651 - Ormerod