The internal logic is maintained, its current phase etc, the FET that actually drives the coils are off, ie It will not move. The full paragraph . Enable Input. This input turns on or off all of the FET outputs. When set to a logic high, the outputs are disabled. When set to a logic low, the internal control enables the outputs as required. The translator inputs STEP, DIR, and MSx, as well asby Dust - RAMPS Electronics
use the ramps test code.. your code hasn't enabled the stepper driver.by Dust - RAMPS Electronics
1) unlikely. Or will be old and you will want to update it. 2) printer setting are likely to be non exsistant. might be with old cura... 3) one would hope, but depends on what board you have 4) to compile and upload the new firmware. 5) GOOGLE.COM, or try reading some of the forums.by Dust - Prusa i3 and variants
This is how PID works.... check your PIDTEMPBED settings A real relay will a) drive you batty with clicking b) eventually due to sparking contacts it will one day fuse in one position. a external mosfet driver on heat sink is a better option, there are several options now on the market eg orby Dust - Firmware - Marlin
that video is very confused ..... You play with the X min endstop and talk about the y endstop, you hold done a random endstop and we don’t get to see what one.. and show y is triggered.. then you switch back to homing the X axis.... basics. X axis. head moves left to right. X min endstop is on the left. Y axis moves bed front to back, Y min endstop is at the back. so. Hold down the X min eby Dust - Printing
I would guess a power issue on ramps is two power plugs, the 12v 5amp circuit and the 12v 11amp circuit People like putting 5v into the 12v 5amp circuit. this result in being unable to heat up the hotend and no stepper movement Or you brought a 24v hot end..by Dust - Prusa i3 and variants
They are not wrong There is zero standard when it comes to color codes on stepper motors wires. Every manufacturer does the colors differently, this is why there is entire sections dedicated to identifying which wire are part of which coil. But you didn't want that, wanting just the engineering crib notes.by Dust - Prusa i3 and variants
The answer is still correct you just swap the two encoder pins over in the correct pins file With the newer firmware the pins.h file has been split into multiple files Now it is in pins_RAMPS.h seems to be at line 297, I cant test this.. but give it a try. #elif ENABLED(ELB_FULL_GRAPHIC_CONTROLLER) #define BTN_EN1 35 // reverse if the encoder turns the wrong way. #define BTN_EN2by Dust - Reprappers
I have always thought a pre heater for the extruder would probably help, raise it from room temp to something higher, less work for the hotend. As long as you dot go to far so it just gums up the extruder.by Dust - General
Thought this was interesting and worth sharing [3dprintingindustry.com] Yes I know its been done before on small scale, as a MB add on for eg What I also found amusing is the orange parts coming of the printer are clearly Original Prusa I3 mk2s parts! Sadly no videos of it printing that I can find quickly...by Dust - General
If the endstops are configured as NO (normally open) the controller would work without them but most are configured as NC (normally closed) specifically so that if the endstop is unplug it triggers.by Dust - Prusa i3 and variants
Good spotting... Looking just above that error see in Marlin_main.cpp #if ENABLED(PRINTER_EVENT_LEDS) // Gradually change LED strip from blue to violet as bed heats up if (!wants_to_cool) { const uint8_t red = map(constrain(temp, start_temp, target_temp), start_temp, target_temp, 0, 255); if (red != old_red) set_led_color((old_red = red), 0, 255);by Dust - Firmware - Marlin
"So removing the D1 diode will allow me to power the mega2560 directly using a 7-12V power supply." yes. "I assume I can take 12V from the same supply I use to power the rest of the printer to power the ramps." yes. NB this is no different from the mega being feed from d1.. same 12v goes to same voltage regulator on mega. " I do not really understand the purpose of the additional 5V supply,by Dust - RAMPS Electronics
nearly always endstops check what the controller thinks is the status of your end stops with M119, any that are triggered, you cant move that way.by Dust - Prusa i3 and variants
Compiles without issue with 1.6.13, ill download the newer IDE and try again. Update: compiled on 1.8.2 also... My testing was get a fresh copy of marlin enable RGB_LED download 1.8.2 ardunio ide. set board type to mega2560 hit verify.. What board did you select and what does you full configuration.h look like? Also if you got to tools|board|manager change the type to updatable, is there anytby Dust - Firmware - Marlin
"I thought the Arduino was supposed to get power from the RAMPS shield but I guess I am wrong in that assumption." Correct, but it was never designed to drive a glcd, they suck to much power. (non ardunio mega2560 boards provide more current) power is taken from the ramps to the mega threw D1 to the mega vin pin. "Can I power the Arduino with a wall wart plugged into the barrel connector?" Yeby Dust - RAMPS Electronics
really.... see no not changed much at all.... and from 2009by Dust - General
background info There are two ways to upload firmware to a arduino 1) via usb serial, this is done by resetting the board to launch the bootloader. This is the default. when you click the right arrow "upload" 2) via avrisp, this bypasses the usb serial and the bootloader and puts the data directly into the 2560 chip, this is also the only way to install a new bootloader. notes: changing the bby Dust - General
Original Prusa mk2 is the machine with the original mk42 bed, what yours was cloned (not night word as it is open source) from. I wouldn’t want to heat it, not beyond 100c anyways, might warp the bedby Dust - General
If is the same stuff as on the mk2, no way to remove it other than destructive, that I know of... but I wonder if you let the adhesive warm up if becomes sticky again and you could re stick the PEIby Dust - General
The lcd looks to have backwards plugs.... This shows the wiring Note on the lcd the red wire indicating pin one is clearly on the side with the sd card slot On the image of the lcd you provided, the key is upside down, so you are forced to plug the cables in backwards.... Easy fix is just to ignore the keys on the adaptor and turn each cable around 180 degrees (In this case two wrongs does mby Dust - Controllers
Often this is an issue with axis being backwards and endstops being setup as mins or max's incorrectly things to check. When looking at the front of the printer. X+ moves head right, X- moves the head left. X min endstop is on the left, max on the right Y+ moves the bed forward, Y- moves the bed back. Y min endstop is at the back, max at the front. Z+ moves the head up, Z- moves the head down.by Dust - General
moving that slow I wouldn’t expect any movement half the time... 1/16th only "works" if there is momentum set to 1/4 microstep max, that should be achievable at slow speedsby Dust - Reprappers
re diodes, your right, I had your picture upside down in my head... far to many mosfets than im used to So its mosfet protection. So yea no protection on the last two mosfets... You need protection when dealing with inductors, (fans and solenoids, coils etc) the collapsing magnetic field can kill a mosfet I think its diodes are meant to be there Sorry I dont have a real one to look atby Dust - Controllers
Well first off that video looks like you are showing us the Y axis from when you are facing the front of the machine (ie can see the lcd) X is left to right movement Y is front to back movement Z is up and down movement I would suspect you have your X and Y and one of your Z stepper wires swapped over... so its getting really confused. Check you have them correct according to the details I jby Dust - Prusa i3 and variants
"I pulled out my meter and indeed measured 24v on the (+) output for all hot end outputs on the board. I then measured the voltage between the (-) side of those outputs and the power supply GND and found a voltage of 22v" this is expected, the GND is switched on most boards, so you must use the GND on the output not direct to the supply. The diodes seem to be related to the stepper drivers, I sby Dust - Controllers
Firmware looks good VMOT should always be 12v, is wired directly from 12v5a plug threw the polyfuse to the stepper driver vmot pins. If your not getting 12v on vmot... either the polyfuse is gone (are meant to auto reset, but can fail) or you have a fault on your ramps pcb, I'm presuming your just testing and have nothing else on the 12v rails? as a dead polyfuse will also stop hotends and faby Dust - Reprappers
the yellow/orange square thin things on the ramps are the polyfusesby Dust - Prusa i3 and variants
End stops are definitely disabled (well not triggered, which is what you need) Can you clarify "I am using an external power supply to the RAMPS board that supplies 12V" Where is this wired to? It should be the 5a circuit of the ramps, see lower left of this diagram. Also your motherboard line in your configuration.h, its needs to say something with the word RAMPS in itby Dust - Reprappers