I get the same behaviour with midori and chrome browsers on a rapberry pi 3by jmg123 - Duet
Yes it is still working well , I have got through two rolls of filament since the upgrade. i have since upgraded it from carbon fibre to polycarbonate, as the higher heat deflection will allow it to print at high temperatures (<260C)) The clone hot ends range from absolute rubbish, to fine and it is a bit of a lottery when you buy them,, so i would recommend getting the official one if you caby jmg123 - Fisher
I printed with an extruder temp of 265 degrees and a bed temperature of 85 degrees. This was a slightly higher bed temperature than in the polymaker pc-plus data sheet, but i wanted to try and counteract some of the effect of the airflow coming from the nozzles. It stuck to the buildtak slightly too well, making it a little differcult to get the part off at the end, next time I think i'll prinby jmg123 - Fisher
Just got round to installing my heated bed kit, works like a charm , Polycarbonate printing with no warpingby jmg123 - Fisher
I think WiFi is a good choice, especially as it is only for file upload and accessing the web interface. I reckon whatever you had chosen, there would be a minority of people who didn't like the choice, delete as applicable Ethernet but no WIFI- why didn't you use WIFI? hardly anyone has Ethernet in the right place these days. Wifi but no Ethernet - why didn't you use Ethernet? I don't have aby jmg123 - Duet
Two processors is a great idea, does that mean the wifi processor can act as an external watchdog to the main processor? reseting the board in the unlikely event of a that the main processor get stuck could be a great way of making sure the heaters don't get left on full blast.by jmg123 - Duet
Quotejmgiacalone @jmg123 You may need a power supply which can provide more current than the one you linked to. Cartridge heater resistance is 6 Ohms and the bed is 3 Ohms. So at 24v, the hot end will draw 4A and the bed 8A. Your power supply therefore needs to be able to supply at least 12A at 24v, or 288W power. These figures cater for powering all the heaters at full power, which is not necessby jmg123 - Fisher
Quotejmgiacalone Hello jmg123, I've been planning to test the Fisher with 24v, and in fact received a suitable power supply in the post today, so I'll let you know how it goes. We do have bed springs. I'll get them listed on the site over the next couple of days. Great thanks, I've converted my fisher to 24V and be powered by one of these so I can also easily try it at 19V and 24V, just wantby jmg123 - Fisher
Wow that looks great, I think I'll order one tonight, I have a couple of questions though: Will the heatbed take 24 Volts? Have you get any bed springs available for purchase?by jmg123 - Fisher
Quotentsewell Thanks for the comments and ideas everyone - but I don't know how I would be able to fix the E3D hot end into my Fisher Delta? I mean, is it supposed to replace the extruder and the rest of the hot end entirely? If so, presumably I should print something first that allows it to be mounted, then take out the existing hot end assembly and replace it? Is this what is being suggestedby jmg123 - Fisher
The photo is of official everthing apart from the heatsink which is a clone. I've tried it with the official heatsink and it worked ok, i had to sand the top cutout a bit for both, but it does give a good fit. The clone heatsink I had was the same dimensions as the official v6 but with a different bowden connector. The design of the effector was based on the drawings on the e3d website.by jmg123 - Fisher
I've been meaning to update the thread, for a while. Based on the advice of jmgiacalone, I did a redesign to sit the ball joints closer to the nozzle tip To do this the 30mm fan had to be above the effector plate, so I designed a covering to channel the airflow through the E3D heatisink, and out the bottom to the nozzle blower from the original fisher. Using carbon fibre rod arms means that noby jmg123 - Fisher
Hi Does anyone have a mechanical CAD model of the duet (not the electrical CAD one) that they would be willing to share? I am designing a tray to attach the duet to a new printer I have on order. I want to make sure of some of the clearances and header positions in relation to the CAD model I have for the rest of the printer. Hopefully I can save some time if anyone has a model, otherwise I'llby jmg123 - Duet
Quotedc42 The mdns module creates the name from the printer name and the MAC address. I guess the MAC address is included to guarantee that if you have more than one printer on the network, they have unique names. You could rebuild the firmware to avoid appending the MAC address, in file mdns_responder.c. Thanks, I'll give it a goby jmg123 - Duet
Is there a way to set the name that appears in mdns? I'd like to be able to remove the MAC address from the name that appears via bonjour if possible.by jmg123 - Duet
Here is my fisher, the three hall sensors are on the dark blue brackets at the top. You can just see magnets i glued on to the cyan carriages as well. The hall sensors have a polarity so make sure you get the magnet the correct way round. The dark blue brackets allow the height and depth of the sensors to be individually adjusted . I'll try and get some better photos when i get home tonight. I hby jmg123 - Fisher
Hi One other minor suggestion, if the chosen micro can report back it's own internal temperature, (Some Atmel parts and quite a few NXP Kinetis parts do), it could be read and then used to drive an optional fan that blows over the duet PCB. It would be great for printers running in hot environments, but probably not worth the extra BOM cost of adding a thermistor on the PCB. Cheers Jeffby jmg123 - Duet
I have a couple of suggestions Is there is going to be an expansion board for the Duet NG? it would be great if the holes for the PCB standoffs/ or screws on the expansion (or Duex4 if appropriate) board lined up with a set of four holes on the duet NG . That way it would be possible to mount them on top of each other with suitable sized standoffs, might be useful for places where there is a lotby jmg123 - Duet
Have you considered moving away from micro switches? I have stopped using micro switches on my fisher, and moved over to open collector hall sensors Hall Sensor NJK5002C Detective Distance 5-8mm DC 6V-36V 300mA NPN 3 Wire which are £5 on Amazon, They give much more repeatable results for the homing positions compared to the micro switches. As an added bonus, the sensors have LEDs in them soby jmg123 - Fisher
I mounted it on my old fisher beta, to check how much space is lost, the height needs 20mm taking of, and the radius needs 5mm taking off, so the config.g needs changing to this: M665 R75.0 L160.0 B75 H160.0 ; set delta radius, diagonal rod length, printable radius and homed height I reckon if I cut about 2mm off the bottom of the cooler, then no printable radius will need to be lost which isby jmg123 - Fisher
Good point, hadn't thought about how much the effector would tilt. In that case I'll go for the diamond, as the only real benefit to the other was that the chimera/cyclops are hot swappable with the same heatsink. Price wise they are pretty similar £108 for the cyclops, and £103 for the diamond with e3dv6 lite heatsinks or £149 with e3dv6 heatsinksby jmg123 - Fisher
With the sad demise of RepRapPro, and the uncertainty of the long term future sources of Fisher nozzles, I decided to design a new effector fan assembly that would work with E3D v6 (not lite) in Onshape . The files are public so anyone can copy or remix them. The E3D v6 has a longer, and wider heatsink than the original Fisher one, so none of the original effector parts can really be used (incby jmg123 - Fisher
I've done both with no problem, in my case I set the temperatures near the top end of the manufacturers suggested range as I was printing quite fast. If you would like to try them , I would suggest getting a 5m/10m lengths of a few different filaments from www.globalfsd.com, generally they are in the range £/$/€ 1 to 5, that way you can see which ones you like best, and if if doesn't work youby jmg123 - Fisher
If you PM me for my address and send me an S.A.E I'll send you an original unused Fisher rod from my reprap beta, I have some spare.by jmg123 - Fisher
I've taken the full assembly of the Fisher from the official reprap repo, and reorientated it so it can be used inside simplyfy3d as a machine overlay Stl for s3d import is hereby jmg123 - Fisher
If you are going to change the carriage assembly, then it might be worth considering changing the spacing of the arms so that it is the same as the mini kossel, then it would be easy to get effectors for various heads. e.g Jhead - in metal or Dual extruder, for chimera etc or diamond hotend The gap between the kossel arms is just slightly smaller.by jmg123 - Fisher
After using up 1 reel of FormFutura carbonfil, my 0.4mm nozzle is now 0.9mm !! so get some spares in if you can.by jmg123 - Fisher
Nylon works after a fashion, but is liable to curling, I found taping some of the perf board pcb to the bed and having a large raft fixed this, as the holes in the pcb get filled with nylon which gives it some adhesion.by jmg123 - Fisher
Would it possible to do a complete beta -> 1.0 upgrade kit (including replacement acrylic parts)by jmg123 - Fisher
Quotedroftarts Sorry you are having problems with your bed. It is a problem that has been reported by a small number of customers. The pressure of the countersunk screw and the steel ball on the hole in the acrylic, and particularly as they all expand and contract with temperature (a few other people have said they have had the same issue the day after), causes them to break. We think it happensby jmg123 - Fisher