How would you install this on a direct drive extruder that has no bowden tube between the motor and the spool? It would also be a little large to stick on piece of PFTE tube above a direct drive extruder without some sort of mounting bracket or mounting holes.by PDBeal - Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
These were printed at 30 mm/s. I had to try out a Marvin keyring and it handled it just like it was PLA. The last two pictures are of it printing a tire for the Open F1 RC car, but I wanted to show how well its holding the thin infill at 30 mm/s. These were printed at 45 mm/s (Still dialing in the retract settings for black seem to be a little different than the clear or blue.) This was priby PDBeal - General
They say it is a similar layout to the Due and Mega boards, but it makes me wonder if it would work with the RADDS board for the Due. It would probably have to be a completely different firmware fork to utilize the additional processors but it is an interesting read nevertheless. Shame that I was not able to find a US supplier for one of these boards though, could have been nice to tinker withby PDBeal - Duet
The window on the boat looks like your lacking proper cooling for PLA bridging. I found the blower type setups work a lot better than the fan setups. Or, your cooling system isn't running fast enough when it did the bridging of the top window.by PDBeal - Printing
If your wanting a reliable E3D hotend, order a genuine one from E3D. Yes they are pricey, but they work right out of the box. By the time you ordered enough clones to make a functional one, you'll have paid for a genuine. You'll get what you pay for either way you go. Realistically, unless your planning to extrude some exotic materials, you might be good with the E3D lite6 which work up to 24by PDBeal - Mechanics
I've only ever seen the C parameter mentioned on the E3D wiki pages here for the Setup firmware section of the E3D-v6 Assembly. Quote RepRapFirmware Edit the M305 P1 command in file sys/config.g on the SD card (you can do this in the web interface). - For firmware versions 1.16 and earlier, set the B parameter (beta value) to 4388. This value gives better accuracy at typical printing temperaturby PDBeal - Duet
So I recently started to experiment with ABS on my PEI sheet on the heatbed, and it works pretty well. I know most people say enclose the printer if your printing ABS for warp issues, but I've not seen any warp issues on the PEI yet with my open frame CoreXY. However, what I have noticed is the awful smell that comes along with ABS during the print process. Any way to filter or absorb the smelby PDBeal - Reprappers
I've had really good luck with the Hatchbox PLA on Amazon, or the eSun PLA Pro (PLA+) on Amazon. Neither have had any issues printing with my E3D V6 hotends. 190C for Hatchbox and 205C for eSun PLA+.by PDBeal - Reprappers
I too print PLA on PEI. I have a sheet from McMaster that was 0.040" thick painted black on one side and then glued to a piece of glass with some 3M 468MP Adhesive Transfer Tape from Amazon. It was glossy on both sides, but the flat black paint on one side covered the side I glued to the glass, and the print side I scrubbed down with steel wool, and rubbing alcohol to kill some of the gloss andby PDBeal - Reprappers
If your using an E3D V6 hotend, the new socks fit the older blocks. Their newer blocks are only slightly longer for the thermistor cartridge, but the socks do fit quite well on the non-thermistor cartridge ones. I can't say if they'll fit a clone or not, but the older blocks and newer blocks both work great with the socks despite their comments of only fitting the newer heater blocks.by PDBeal - Reprappers
The 60mm/s isn't a misprint. I was skeptical at first and started at 30 and slowly worked my way to 60, but it held it without an issue. I'll try and get a video of it and post it up on YouTube with some other pictures after the holiday weekend. It does require a lot more retraction than a normal direct drive (5mm or so), but the prints don't need to be cleaned up either and I very rarely see thby PDBeal - General
Just to close the loop on anyone reading this in the future, I ended up ordering and installing the Flexion E3D Retrofit Kit on my CoreXY (I actually built a new system, specifically for this extruder based on the Smartrapcore Alu build) After some initial setup issues, It's been working amazingly well. Using a standard genuine E3D V6 hotend with the Flexion Extruder, I've been able to print maby PDBeal - General
And PETG is really bad about oozing those over what you'd get with PLA or ABS.by PDBeal - Printing
If your running in absolute extruder coordinates (making this assumption since you said Marlin), you need a G92 E0 after your G1 E5 F30, otherwise I think the next G1 X130.056 Y82.251 E2.93706 F1500.000 would either run your extruder backwards or not at all since E2.93706 is smaller than E5.by PDBeal - Printing
I've just been uploading the .zip file for the DWC, and it handles extracting everything in the right place as far as I can see on my Duet 0.8.5 boards.by PDBeal - Duet
You have to set Combing Mode off if you want it to retract on layer change. This makes it retract and Z-hop instead of flying through the part. For PETG printing, this feels like its almost required, but PLA doesn't care, and Ninjaflex just turns out bad with Combing Mode off for me at least.by PDBeal - Printing
Does it still gap the corners if you use Line width at 0.40? It might be assuming your extruded line width is larger than what it really is based on your .58 width.by PDBeal - Printing
Did you cancel it from the DWC or a PanelDue? I've noticed if you don't have a cancel.g file, the DWC will just stop the print and leave everything at temperature but the PanelDue would kill the heaters. I've seen this in previous versions, so I created a cancel.g file to kill the heaters and lower the bed in my CoreXY machines.by PDBeal - Duet
I found I got very accurate parts and hole with this new Cura 2.3.1 when I set my line width to the nozzle size. So 0.4 nozzle has 0.4 line width and all my printed holes are exactly as designed when measured. Same on my volcano setup with 0.6 nozzle set to 0.6 line width. I've not had to drill anything out yet. Very pleased with how this new Cura 2.3.1 is working out above and beyond what Iby PDBeal - Printing
I would assume it's from these two settings plus what you define for print speed. And then making the calculations based upon those three values.by PDBeal - Printing
Disable DHCP on the home router since your using static addresses ip addresses on the Duet, and just set your self a static ip address on your second NIC card on the same subnet as the Duet board. This way, your second NIC card won't have a default gateway and the computer won't try to use it for the internet.by PDBeal - Duet
I have an E3D Titan on one of my CoreXY machines. Initially, this was in the bowden setup and it worked very well. I can't say it was really any better than the Wade's Geared extruder that I was using before, but I bought it primarily to see if I could do Ninjaflex. I've now remounted it as a direct drive with the small pancake stepper, primarily because Ninjaflex on bowden at 1.75mm is just aby PDBeal - Mechanics
Is there anything I can put into my start code before the heater section that would cause the PanelDue to change screens and obtain working communication on the new screen prior to the heaters? Would a G4 P200 or G4 P500 pause the machine code long enough for the PanelDue to regain communication to the Duet prior to the M190 or M109 commands? It appears if the PanelDue is already on the Print sby PDBeal - Duet
The only way you can multi-home a computer on 2 networks without it wanting to use a specific one or both for the internet is to turn-off the gateway reply section of the DHCP reply. If you get an IP address and Subnet mask, without a gateway then the computer should know it can't access anything else through that network port. I'm not sure if that is possible on the "home office" routers. Basby PDBeal - Duet
If your first layer is good, but the second layer is dragging the nozzle around, it sounds like your Z calibration or Z steps are too low and when it moves up by the layer height it doesn't move up high enough. Alternatively, if your Z is calibrated properly, is your nozzle attachment loose? Perhaps after the first layer it hangs down or wobbles and is not securely fixed without any play?by PDBeal - Printing
I was printing the oar files from Thingiverse with Cura 2.3.1 with rafts. The oars are very tiny objects and very brittle, but they came right off the raft with no problem using the settings below. I did have to use a thin putty knife in one spot where one of the shields was attached, but it managed to come free without any extra material or any damage to the printed object. The above was usby PDBeal - Printing
How much mass is flying around on top of your extruder nozzle? Are you running a direct drive or bowden setup? How big is your extruder drive? I'm making an assumption your probably running a direct drive extruder and if ringing is that big of a deal to you, I'd suggest you try a bowden setup. It would reduce how much weight is on your extruder carriage. I've seen similar ringing on my CoreXby PDBeal - General
In 1.11 DWC, it was possible to drag and drop a file from the G-Code Files area into a directory to somewhat organize the gcode files on the SD card. It appears in the latest 1.13, that functionality is no longer working and reports the following error message in the G-Code Console. I've tried this is Chrome and Firefox with the same result from both browsers. "Can't rename file or directoryby PDBeal - Duet
Do you have any more details covering the aluminium frame and rod system under your build plate?by PDBeal - Look what I made!
Lower your retraction length. I've seen something similar on one of my printers that had to do with the retraction was too high, and upon restart the plastic wasn't flowing when the printer head was moving. It was really bad with areas of a lot of retraction.by PDBeal - General