I've been using them on all my hotends (even the older block ones despite they claim they don't fit), and I've not had an issue at all. Over time, the hole near the nozzle seems to get a little larger probably due to cleaning the nozzle off with a pair of needle nose pliers, but I've not have sort of blockage like you describe. All of mine are using the standard 0.4 nozzle, although for a whileby PDBeal - Printing
Is there any logic in the PanelDue project to detect if the SD card on the TFT is actually connected? I keep accidentally hitting the button to swap which SD card your looking at while trying to change pages of what gcode files are on the Duet 0.8.5 SD card because the two buttons are very similar and too close together. It would be nice to only show this button if the SD card detects a card inby PDBeal - Duet
One option for getting 3d printed parts, if you don't have access to a 3d printer would be from 3dHubs. I have never used this service, only know of it's existence, but you might be able to find one close to you.by PDBeal - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
I've had better luck using a raft in Cura 2.3.1 than the brim options. The rafts keep everything down, and easily pull off after the print is done. With the brim, I've had to trim a lot of excess off with a knife.by PDBeal - Printing
I tried BuildTak on my printers just sticking it to the glass. It didn't last long enough for what you paid for it, so I removed it too. When I pulled mine off, the glue was left on the glass. In my case, I was able to push the glue with my fingers and it started to roll up. Once I had it rolled I was able to grab a hold with a pair of pliers and slowly pulled the glue off in almost one sheetby PDBeal - Printing
QuoteSrek Using PLA parts to mount a hotend is asking for trouble, PLA gets soft at very low temperatures, use PETG or ABS instead. I use PLA parts to hold my hotends and can't say I've had any issue with them melting. However, they have all been genuine E3D V6 or genuine E3D lite6 hotends that run the hotend fan all the time across the cooling fins. The top of genuine E3D hotends has always bby PDBeal - Reprappers
Quotedc42 G30 with no parameters now sets the machine position to the Z probe trigger height instead of the user position. This means that running G28 (home) and G29 (bed probe) alternately no longer causes the bed height map to creep up or down in average height when Z homing uses the Z probe. However, it means that the Z height displayed after a G30 command is no longer always the same as the Zby PDBeal - Duet
Quotedc42 QuoteDust and he never ever recommends smoothieboards, even though they are also good stable open source 32 bit controllers.... Yes, they are good stable open source 32-bit controllers. But the Smoothieboard 1 costs the same as the Duet WiFi even though it doesn't provide as much. In particular, it doesn't offer a good web interface with fast gcode file upload, or the high current 256xby PDBeal - General
Homing information can be found on the wiki pages.by PDBeal - Duet
FDM has a place, but isn't going to take the place of proper manufacturing. Its a very simple means to prototyping for fit and function, and making the 1-off item. Beyond that, the dual nozzle with support material does mean you can design anything without considering how it will print using support to fill in the "air gap", but dual color isn't really necessary. If you where after color objeby PDBeal - General
Quotedc42 One thing that has recently come to light is that if you run G29 to probe multiple times, then you should use this sequence: 1. Send M561 to clear the bed trasform. 2. Home using G28. 3. Run G29 If you don't send M561 before homing, then the height map can affect the Z position after homing, leading to a Z offset that affects the G29 results. Likewise, if you load a height map, you shby PDBeal - Duet
QuoteJamesK Well found, and a classic photograph to illustrate the problem. PTFE liners that don't go all the way to the nozzle junction are a real pain and very prone to exactly the problem you had. You really want at least two hotends, one just for pla with the PTFE to the nozzle, and another for everything else without a liner. I'd have to disagree with that to a degree. If you buy a cheap cby PDBeal - Printing
QuoteOrigamib I would be tempted to say there are other methods to achieve the result you want, without using insanely slow speeds. If your material is so viscous, are you even achieving inter layer bonding? Upping the temperature will in most cases (I cant think of one where it doesn't, unless of course you go so high you carbonize the material...) increase flow, letting you print faster and givby PDBeal - General
QuoteFarnomat I don't know if somebody already suggested this, but if the holes are constantly too small (for example always .5mm), there's a setting called "Dimensional Accuracy" or "horizontal size compensation" or smth. like that in most of the slicers. If your holes are always .5mm too small, try typing in -0.25mm (so just half of the amount that they are too small) If your holes are too bigby PDBeal - Printing
I've used Buildtak on cold beds and it does work and works well. It stopped any sort of warp on the parts, was a little difficult to get off but worked well for holding the part. However, it doesn't last long and is consumable and has to be replaced over time. I know other people have had good luck with blue tape on a cold bed, I've heard others use blue tape and glue or blue tape and hairspraby PDBeal - Printing
Might be a better idea to post the video to Youtube rather than the 11MB download.by PDBeal - General
You'd have to obtain the extruder motor and hot end along with the XYZ and some general way to control the stepper motors. Without the extruder or hot end, you'd have a hard time heating the plastic and dispensing it onto a surface. You might be able to use the DVD drive motors for XYZ, but it wouldn't be very big considering they aren't going to be powerful enough to move any heavy mass.by PDBeal - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
I've had much better luck producing accurate holes when printing with files sliced by Cura 2.3.1. My hole dimensions are still on the small side, but the tolerances in my parts are more than enough for this to work. I've not had to drill out any holes since switching to Cura 2.3.1 from slic3r. On a side note, I have noticed my holes are more accurate on the machines with a direct drive than thby PDBeal - Printing
Use a real diamond hotend and not a Chinese clone? It sounds like the heater cartridge is either 24V running on 12V or not enough watts to get higher temperatures.by PDBeal - Mechanics
I've done quite a few 20+ hour prints with PETG on PEI and I've not smelled anything. This has been with the Hatchbox PETG and the eSun PETG and neither have produced a smell as far as I could tell.by PDBeal - General
Quotedc42If you are using my mini IR sensor, it's designed to fit below the heatsink of an E3Dv6 hot end so that you can get it close to the nozzle. The one on my delta is 13 mm from the nozzle. It used to be less, but the new E3D heater block that accepts PT100 sensors is larger than the old one. Mounting it to the E3D hotend fan isn't the best idea. I tried this a while back and if the fan evby PDBeal - Duet
What is probably bad/miss leading about this grid is the large gap between those three arrows and the start of your grid. On my coreXY, the IR sensor is +33mm from my nozzle, which means my probe points are all between X33 and X200. This then leads to an almost useless grid as it can't compensate from X0-X33. This leads me to believe this grid setup needs to have a probe very very close to youby PDBeal - Duet
Quoteelkell O_Lampe - Not sure what you mean about the jumpers. I didn't require jumpers before, at least I don't think I did. Some of the chinese ramps boards had traces underneath where the 3 jumpers would normally sit, some of the chinese ones don't. The only way to find out is to lift up the black plastic on the base of the jumper pin to see the trace on the top side of the board or checkby PDBeal - Printing
I run into inconsistent Z heights with the ir probe every now and again. I usually clean the glass or PEI surface with the alcohol based glass cleaner, reset my Z height with the paper and everything is good after that when using G32. Trying to use the G29 was almost impossible for printing as it constantly tried to use different starting heights every single time. Gave up with G29 and been usby PDBeal - Duet
One thing you might have better luck with is if you painted the back side of the glass black. I know your PCB looks black, but in one of your pictures you can see the traces and some lines between the traces. The IR sensor does trigger differently on those types of areas as I've seen that myself with my MK2b before I painted the PEI black on one side. 0.5 to 1 mm difference in X or Y was givingby PDBeal - Duet
QuoteLegrand I purchased both the Duet and the 7" paneldue for both machines because I'm using them at work and have an "unlimited" budget. Is it worth the extra $250-$300 when I didn't have to pay for it? Sure. For my work applications or for where aesthetics and ease of use are important. Definitely. At home though? Probably not for a tinker, that uses it once a week, that is unless you have aby PDBeal - Duet
What I've done to try and troubleshoot something like this is tell the extruder motor to extrude say 100mm of filament. While its doing that, I try and pull, tug, and twist the motor cables around to see if it stops. If not, I move the head into another location and do it again. Eventually you'll find a spot that has the issue and then can break out a multi-meter and ohm out the motor wiring wby PDBeal - Printing
Do you have a loose wire on your pancake stepper that could be breaking connection and remaking connection later on in your print? All it would take is a minor wire break in 1 of the 4 stepper wires for the motor to stop turning, and with your comments of the printer resuming later and then stopping again makes it look like there could be an intermittent issue with your wiring as the head travelby PDBeal - Printing
What color was the initial 10m filament? I have no experience with your filament brand, but I've noticed different colors of any filament seem to take different temperatures. Some ooze more than others at lower temperatures with the only difference being color. For instance, I can print Hatchbox Silver PLA at 180C, but the same part in Hatchbox Green PLA doesn't run well unless its at 200C, anby PDBeal - Printing