Show all posts by user
I tested 5/16" (7.93mm) unfilled PEEK and it worked fine, I think 10mm is a standard sheet thickness.
I'm running my heater block at 250oC and have no issues after 3000+hrs
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CdnReprap
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General
are you trying to connect a thermocouple directly to your arduino?
The output from a thermocouple needs amplification from a op-amp and filtering to eliminate the noise after amplification.
The easy solution is to use the AD595, it amplifies, filters and conditions the output from the thermocouple...they run~$10
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CdnReprap
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Controllers
No problem...send me the list and I'll print them up for (UofT) at no charge....all I ask is you pay shipping from Whitby or pick them up
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CdnReprap
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Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group
Sorry guys.....Things got really busy for me over the holidays.
We should try and set somthing up sooner than later.
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CdnReprap
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Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group
dissidence: I'm using it as a heater so I'm not concerned with the cold side, the small metal part is only holding the module onto the bed.
jamesdanielv: I don't have a flir cam but I'll take a few measurements around the bed with some thermocouples and pop back and share. I do print full trays with no issue using 3M projector transparencies.
I don't reverse the voltage because it would damage
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CdnReprap
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General
This came up a little while ago here.
but since then I changed to a 5mm aluminum thick build surface, 50mm x 50mm module and I can hit 105o~110oC at 12V.
Attached are pics of how I crudely mounted the module.
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CdnReprap
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General
Andrew Diehl@ Yep. I print on on either a dimension or a fortus FDM machine.
Stratasys ABS and support material is $~140/lbs
Stratasys or 3D systems would charge you ~$150!
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CdnReprap
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Job Shop: I need stuff made!
If you want we can set it up in the showroom...lol.......I was thinking of setting it up in one of the R&D labs where we can get all the machines on the work benches and get them all ripping!
aplavins: if you do bring it....think of the reaction you'll get on the train.
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CdnReprap
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Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group
What firmware are you using?
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CdnReprap
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Reprappers
I guess it's time to finish my website
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CdnReprap
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General
Anyone know if eMakershop.com is still operating? or are they focused on the reprappro?
I sent them a request for a seller acocunt and I got no reply.
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CdnReprap
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General
Ultimachine.com sells RAMPS electronics.
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CdnReprap
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General
brnrd: The extruder is still being held in place by M4 hardware.
Issues or points to take note with the STL files in the release....I'll assume the packs are the same STL's as the individual ones.
Z bar couplings - won't fit 5mm shafted motors
Pulley rings - bearing is loose, and the part fit between the two parts is loose.
Extruder Body- M3 Nut size in the top is too small for the nut to fit
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CdnReprap
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General Mendel Topics
I recently purchased Creo Parametric and stumbled onto PTC Creo Direct.... it's free and quite a nice program. Tutorials are included so you can get running pretty quick.
Here's a bunch of others that might interest you depending on what you want to print.
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CdnReprap
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3D Design tools
Where are you located at the moment?
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CdnReprap
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Wanted
moltean: quote: "the peek core is not leaking anymore ...but I still have the original problem: there is no melted pla coming out of hotend after 1 minute after the start of the print process. "
You might have one of the following problems:
#1.Problem: Machine starts to print but Temp drops after sending Gcode to the machine.
Symtoms: machine works as expected reading, setting the temp and
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CdnReprap
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General
Your right. yep, I bought more than one spool.
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CdnReprap
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General
I helped a friend "repstrap" his little CNC mill a couple days ago so this is pretty fresh in my mind
Before we started, he had the machine in running condition using Mach3.
Basically we replaced the PC connected to the breakout board with a Gen3 reprap motherboard with 1 stepper driver.
Here is summary of what we did
-chopped the end off a parallel cable so the machine can be used as a printe
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CdnReprap
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General
Skid marks on the fillament and debris IN the plastic has nothing to do with the machine.
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CdnReprap
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General
The company track record isn't any better. Here's just a few points off the top of my head.
A fully built Reprap is technically not legal for sale anywhere in world unless it has the appropriate approval and the facility assembling the machine is also listed....>>>finished product with no EMC(EU), FCC(NA) approval, or electrical approval, is not legal.
Showing a Projet part on a reprap
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CdnReprap
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General
If your end stops are not configured properly XYand Z will not move.
Are you using opto or mechanical switches for end stops?
Are you sure the motors are wired correctly? Wire colors might not be correct on your motors.
If you post your firmware your trying to use I can take a look for you.
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CdnReprap
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General
I got a bad batch of plastic from Makergear, I sent Rick pics of the bad plastic as requested in IRC and they didn't even reply. In my books I call that a ~$50 lesson.
If you want a kit with easy to follow instructions go with a Makerbot TOM.
If you build a Reprap, you should build one based on the latest Prusa design, there are more users and more builders.
Good luck!
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CdnReprap
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General
Hello All
I'm looking for someone who wants to trade a brand new assembled RAMPS 1.2, arduino mega 1280 and pololu steppers for a working Gen6 without endstops.
This trade might not make sense to some but the reason for the trade is I would like to have a Gen6 board on hand to help my customers who are using Gen6, test firware and include Gen6 electronics in the assembly info/instructions we ar
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CdnReprap
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Wanted
I think you should look at the old stratasys FDM1600,1650 or the 2000.
They all had a cable based positioning system, from the info I have the conclusion is as the machine and cables heat and cool accuracy will change because the cables will change length.
I remember reading a service manual for one of those machines and they had a special note in the calibration procedure was to let the machin
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CdnReprap
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General
You can harden the smooth rod yourself.
BUT DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK:......The process is pretty straight forward but you need to be VERY careful. Do not do this indoors.
First you need to heat up the rod to point that it's no longer magnetic, then quench the rod (put the hot rod) in either motor oil, salt water or plain water.(best to worst)
Based on parts I have done over the years and test
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CdnReprap
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General
Natural - SOLD!
Thx
for looking
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CdnReprap
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For Sale