Yes, all three. A combination of aluminium foil as packing and screws will hold the J Head more firmly in the socket on the extruder body. Extrusion rate calibration is very important as too much or too little plastic will ruin any chance of getting good results.by MotoBarsteward - General Mendel Topics
Only very rarely does the filament come straight out of my novel. It tends to curl off to one side when the head is lifted clear of the bed. I would not be concerned if I was you. When printing, your head is fractions of a mm off the bed or previous layer so it can't go far! The first time I noticed this on my head I, like you, panicked. I stripped the head down and cleaned it. It made no differeby MotoBarsteward - Printing
I have just updated my github image to the latest dev and have tried to slice several STL files. Slic3r completes with no errors but when I load the gcode into pronterface, it says that the object is 0.35mm high (0.25 to 0.6mm). I've tried deleting and recreating the print, Filament and printer settings by renaming the Slic3r folder in the Application Data folder of my profile. I can upload the fby MotoBarsteward - Slic3r
Sorry, I've been out of the loop for a few weeks. It's annoying when life gets in the way of RepRap! Anyway, we've pretty well run out of October and I'm already booked out for three weekends in November. I guess we are getting close to Christmas now. My design and plans for my ABSPrusa Mendel Zaphod are well advanced. I have all the vitamins now and am in the process of printing parts. I've coby MotoBarsteward - West of England RUG
It's possible you might have a bent on mis-lined rail. Try loosening off the nuts that clamp one of the rails and moving the stage back and forth. See if the rail is moving in the clamp sideways. Another guy I helped had a similar problem and it turned out that his rails were not parallel. Not sure what motors or electronics you are using but check that the driver is supplying the correct currenby MotoBarsteward - General Mendel Topics
Not all fans work for the whole control range. One fan I have works from 75 to 255 while another only starts up for values greater than 200. Try setting the minimum fan speed in slic3r to 250 and see if it comes on then. Slicer will only turn the fan on if the layer print time is below the specified threshold. The only thing that will be guaranteed to bring the fan on is bridging.by MotoBarsteward - General Mendel Topics
Watch what the belt does on the idler and pulley when moving the y axis back a forth. Is the belt rubbing on the big washers that eare each side of the bearing? If your frame is not exactly square the the belt will travel between the big washers. This can be more of a problem with the x axis, in my experience. There are plastic guides on thingiverse.by MotoBarsteward - General Mendel Topics
Try experimenting with support material. I've been surprised by how well it works. I've found that kisslicer does a much better job than slic3r as the support material is much easier to remove and appears to hardly touch the object.by MotoBarsteward - Printing
I really need to remember to put on my glasses! I realise now that I typed crub when I meant grub! I don't know if its just my family but, to me, a grub screw is also a name for a belly button or navel. I'm not sure it's belt slip as such because it corrects it's self on the return. Anyway, I'm glad a made people smile even if I've not been able to help.by MotoBarsteward - Printing
I had an effect similar to this. Check that the crub screw in your x axis pulley is tight.by MotoBarsteward - Printing
That was easier than I thought (thanks to help from nophead!). Configuration file in Prusa's githib source folder modified to produce the L8UU bearing version. Copied the bit of code from the end of the x-end-idler scad file to the end of the x-end-motor scad file and I now have an stl file for an x-end that has both a motor mount and an idler. Printing two of these as I type. Will let you know tby MotoBarsteward - General Mendel Topics
This is mostly addressed to nophead but others may also be interested. I want to build a machine capable of running two extruders so I can print PVA water soluble support. I've been thinking about this for some time and what the best approach might be. I was thinking of designing and build a machine based on the MendelMax but have decided evolution of my current ABSPrusa rather than a revolutionby MotoBarsteward - General Mendel Topics
I'm thinking of putting together a Dual headed Prusa Mendel so that I can print PVA support material with PLA. I have an idea that, if the heads position on the X axis could be independently controlled rather than being mounted on the same carriage, I could park the head not being used with a strip of thin metal pressing against the head to prevent ooze. To do this, I will need two X - axis motorby MotoBarsteward - RAMPS Electronics
Clem Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Right given I just blew up my melzi (dont short > 12V to the thermistors people ...) I was thinking. What is the Maximum voltage that the thermister inputs will take on the Melzi? It might be worth adding a couple of 4V7 or 5V1 Zener diodes to protest them. It appears to be an easy thing to do, stuffing 12V up em. Andby MotoBarsteward - General Mendel Topics
On what design is your extruder based? Is the design finalised? Can you provide more details of how the extruder is assembled? How does it drive the filament?by MotoBarsteward - General Mendel Topics
Also, check that the grub screws on the two gears are done up tightly.by MotoBarsteward - Printing
Remember that your heated bed gets hot. (hence its name). What ever tubing you use must stand the heat which probably rules out everything except silicone.by MotoBarsteward - General Mendel Topics
Remember that negative Z offsets won't work because you end stop switch will prevent your head moving down.by MotoBarsteward - General Mendel Topics
It sounds like your Y rods are either not parallel or one or both might be bent. Are you using LM8UU bearings or printed bearings? If the former, then they shouldn't need much lubrication as they bearings come pre-lubricated. Sniper4395 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > > > Much better! Picture shows attempts in order from > left to right, rightby MotoBarsteward - Printing
I can book a hall for one afternoon in the weekend in October in Swindon. Parking may not be so easy but we can stop to load/unload. I'll find out availability and price and get back to you. There are loads of tables and power points. There's also a kitchen for teas/coffees and heating food.by MotoBarsteward - West of England RUG
So, if my rights as the owner a waived by uploading designs to thingiverse, does this also mean that my responsibility is also waived? If something I upload injures someone or their property, does that mean that, by this statement, they are liable for that injury irrespective of the source of the design?by MotoBarsteward - General
There are some really good mods here. I want to have a go at building a dual print head machine so that I can print PVA support. I'd like to use your design. Could you supply links to the various places in thingiverse? The main rigidity weakness with the Prusa design is the lack of stability in the frame when the print head is moving in the X direction. To counter this, I'm planning on mountingby MotoBarsteward - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I looked at the other thread that you meantioned, Wired1. What a Beaut! I'm a bit confused though. You say its an oversized Mendel Prusa but he smoth rods are the same size as my ABSPrusa that I bought in kit form from thereprapkitstore.co.uk.by MotoBarsteward - General Mendel Topics
Maplin do some. I wouldn't use the 38x38x38 one though. For some reason, my sangionolu and fan control module don't control the spead very well. the fan won't start unless the spead is at least 80% and it is very noisy. The other problem is that the fan only cools one side of the object. This is ok for small things but not for larger stuff. I think I'm going to mount a couple of 80mm fans to eacby MotoBarsteward - General Mendel Topics
I use diluted PVA to prevent curling and I frequntly remove glass to aid part removal from the bed. I've also proken my glass a couple of time because my Z axis end stop switch has moved without me noticing.I also wash my glass frequently in the kitchen sink to remove PVA glue. Glueing the glas to the bed would not be a good idea.by MotoBarsteward - General Mendel Topics
I've started to blog my development: - MotoRepRap blog Gulf Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > That sounds very familiar, I started using > Kisslicer a couple months ago and the support is > really awesome except for trying to remove it. I > however would like to be able to easily enclose > the print area to allow a more equal temperature > duringby MotoBarsteward - Printing
New blog for a new form of reprap. I intend to build a dual headed reprap using extruded aluminium to print parts with water soluble support material. This blog will chart my progress. MotoRepRapby MotoBarsteward - Developers
I suppose that's a good enough excuse! Congratulations. ncibbit Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I'm afraid I cant make it then either, its my > daughters wedding > > Cheers > > Nickby MotoBarsteward - West of England RUG
I'm thinking of organising a get-together in Swindon, Wiltshire on either 22nd or 23rd September. I'd need to book a hall for this so I need to check that this is,a suitable date first. It's got a kitchen so Chilli is still on the menu! Anyone interested?by MotoBarsteward - West of England RUG
I'd make sure you start from the lower bed temperatures to start with or you may have fun removing larger objects from the bed. orcinus Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I print at those temperatures without PVA glue, on > "naked" glass, 45-60 deg C. > I keep the fan off for the first 1-3 layers. > > Since beefing up the cooling, however, i've now &by MotoBarsteward - Printing