You tell the slicer what infill percentage you want. After printing its solid layers, it will start printing sparse layers based on your percentage, until it gets to the top where it will switch to solid layers again to finish the object.by jbernardis - Slic3r
Quoteekul3e3 ... it doesn't seem like anything is wrong until i actually start a print ... Many times, that's what you would see if your stepper drivers are not adjusted properly. You are not stressing the printer enough with your manual moves, but when you start sending a stream of commands with changes in direction and acceleration, your problems will surface.by jbernardis - Printing
This is a much-discussed issue. Perhaps the best discussion of it is in nophead's blog from February 2011.by jbernardis - Slic3r
Well I know it doesn't answer your question, but I have never had an issue with my polyfuses in over 2 years of operation. You can certainly replace with the fuses you are talking about, but if they blow, you will need to replace the fuse. The polyfuse, on the other hand, will reset. Make sure your fuses are for the proper amperage - 5 and 11.by jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteDust jbernardis, I think your a bit late, was posted February 09, 2012!!!!!!! This is what happens when someone resurrects an old thread. I didn't even notice the date ☺by jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics
I can't see the pics because there are too many connections to the server, but if the effects are random, suspect either loose belts, or dropping steps because of an improperly set stepper driver. Miscalibration effects are usually consistently offby jbernardis - Printing
QuoteDonald King If the D1 diode is not used, and a computer is not connected to the USB connection on the RAMPS 1.4, can the Arduino Mega be powered using the power connection on the Arduino? There is no USB connector on the RAMPS - it is on the Arduino. To answer the question, if you do not have the diode in place, you MUST provide separate voltage to the arduino. If it is not via the USB coby jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics
I try to use cura as much as possible because I get better results as far as dimensional accuracy goes. It also handles thin walls well. It does have its warts though. I think bridging could be improved a bit, and for the life of me I can't solve the stringing issue I am seeing. On virtually every print, I have to use an xacto knife to trim off all of the hairs. I have increased the retractiby jbernardis - Experimental
I'm not sure if or how perl implements garbage collection, but I would assume it would be before the program became unusable - long before. I'd go over to github and post an issue there.by jbernardis - Slic3r
Does it reach a point where it doesn't run anymore? You just may not have reached the point where it would do garbage collection. . I never notice this as an issue because I don't stay in the program. I very seldom get into the slic3r gui except to change settings. If I do slice something interactively, I get in, load the model(s) slice and then exit. Most of my slicing is done behind the sceby jbernardis - Slic3r
I hadn't thought it through completely. You can't use M114 to modify static G Code. It would all have to be done under host program control dynamically.by jbernardis - Printing
there is a small issue in your script. You're assuming that you are at or below 50mm in height. If you are in fact above that level, your third line will cause the head to crash into the printed object. You need to move in x and y before you move to the Z wipe height, but that means you also need a safe zone where x and y are safe at ANY height. Regarding getting the Z location, M114 will givby jbernardis - Printing
Are you driving them from a PC using USB? USB is notorious for having communications issues, especially is situations where there could be induced current like near a motor or near fluorescent lighting. If usb communications are interrupted, the printer most likely just stop since it can't talk to the host anymore. You may need to separate themessage from one another.by jbernardis - Controllers
The gauge of wire needed us determined by the current you intend to carry. The heaters, and most especially the heated bed draw large currents, the motors are somewhat less, and the thermistor, less still. The suggestion of 16 to 18 for the heated bed is good. A birthday smaller for the hit ends - 20 or 22 would be ok. The same for the motors and as small as 24 for the thermistor. If in douby jbernardis - General Mendel Topics
Quoteggherbaz Then either your steps per mm are wrong for the failing axis or you have a loose belt or pulley yes, and most likely the latter. If your steps per mm were off, the effects would be linear, not random. Check for loose belts, binding, etc.by jbernardis - Printing
It's hard to tell from a photo, but why take a chance. You can go to pololu.com directly and get these boards, assembled, for less than $8. For a few dollars more, you can step up the black edition which supposedly can handle higher current better.by jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics
I agree - it looks like Z axis artifacts. This is usually caused fighting between the Z smooth rods, the Z screws, and the Z coupler. In theory, the Z smooth rods keep things aligned, but if your Z screws do not turn uniformly, they can exert pressure on the entire gantry, causing it to move left, right, forward or back. The main culprit in my case was that the coupler between the motor and thby jbernardis - General Mendel Topics
For number 2, you might try dropping your temp a bit after the first layer - I know slic3r supports this. For PLA, I typically print the first layer at 60, but the second and subsequent at 55. That made a difference for me. You could try lower, but if you get below 40 or so, I find that the print starts to detach.by jbernardis - Printing
QuoteAbuMaia I put a small sliver of kapton tape on the +V contact in the end of the USB cable that plugs into the arduino. This keeps the LCD from staying on when the main power switch is off, but doesn't interfere with data transmission. What a simple but great idea. I think I'll give it a try.by jbernardis - General Mendel Topics
I saw 3dstuffmaker on the board, so I went to their website and found this, so yes it looks like a Gen6. It also looks like it could use a cleaningby jbernardis - Controllers
I have a USB hub that lets me turn each port on or off. It's a bit of a pain having two switches, but I've learned to live with it.by jbernardis - General Mendel Topics
Among other things, it looks like you may have a cooling problem. PLA cooling is helped by a fan pointed at the printed object. I have 2 mounted on my X carriage - one in the front, and one in the back. Their speed and on/off status is controlled by the slicer/G Code, and they made a tremendous difference in my print quality.by jbernardis - Printing
QuoteSanzennin ... Now attempting to extrude 10mm of filament, extrudes 5mm of filament... I assume this is just a mistake with the sentence structure, but when calibrating the extruder, you are not measuring how much filament extrudes, you are measuring how much is pulled INTO the extruder. How much comes out is not considered as part of this calibration.by jbernardis - Printing
That very much looks like a Z artifact. gforce1 was on the right track asking his question. If your layer height does not translate into an integer number of steps for your Z axis thread pitch, then there will be periodic errors. It's possible something else is in play here, but it's easy to check this out first.by jbernardis - General Mendel Topics
for 1, you just need to add end gcode - which all the current slicers support. Just a simple "G90" to go to relative mode, followed by "G1 Z50 F1000" (you can change the 1000 to whatever speed you want) and then "G91" to go back to absolute mode. for 2 - there is no easy way. You need to stop the print, manually move the head up so that it does not melt the printed object. At this point youby jbernardis - Printing
Did you print the small gear by itself? If so, you can't really compare these 2 objects. Printing single small items introduces heat management issues that could result in what you are seeing. Is this PLA? If so, do you have a fan and have you set slicer options to turn the fan on? Can you print two gears together to see if the quality improves?by jbernardis - Printing
it's either the wiring, or you have it plugged into the wrong connector.by jbernardis - Reprappers
As long as the target is 250, you shouldn't have to do anything in the g code. This then is a firmware issue. The only thing that jumps out at me is that 250 is a high temp. For ABS, I run at 235. I'm wondering if there isn't some sort of max temp in the firmware. Just a guess.by jbernardis - General Mendel Topics
What does pronterface show as your target temperature while the temperature is dropping? If it shows a target of 0, then I'd take a close look at the G code to see if the printer is just doing what it was told. Specifically you are looking for M104 and M109 commands in the G Code If you can't find the target temperature on the pronterface screen, enter the M105 command directly, and you shouldby jbernardis - General Mendel Topics
QuoteSchufco How can changing the firmware be simpler and faster, turning a motor connector around takes 2 seconds. Not if you have your electronics mounted in any kind of enclosure. Mine is inside a cage. I find making software changes infinitely easier.by jbernardis - Reprappers