from what I can understand on the website it runs custom firmware Sadly since I can find no cct diagram or a pin assignment.. It will take some dedicated person some time to trace it out and document it.by Dust - Controllers
I cant see any microstepping jumpers... do you have 3 jumpers under the pololu modules to set 1/16 microstepping?by Dust - Controllers
when you accidently home z, you will be thankfull of a z endstop As driving your hotend threw your print bed is an expensive mistake So I will advise that you have a Z endstop if nothing else.by Dust - General
Weird board... If google is working its this board ? Wich states its a Arm cortex M3 at 100mhz Marlin will not run on this.. (there is a port on going for arm boards, but I dont know how they are going, they probbly also have never heard of this board) Wish they would document things a little better, looks intersting, but with no doumentation, its a lot of work to get this runningby Dust - Controllers
Your right the resistance quadurples... not sure where I got doubles from but the orriginal statement is still correct, the power is the same heated beds are two resitors in series or parallel depending on 12v/24v hookup 12v is in parallel, 24v is in series Cant remember actul values but let say its 2.2 Ω per 'resistor' so 12v with resistors in parallel 1/(1/2.2Ω + 1/2.2Ω ) = 1.1 Ω aby Dust - Reprappers
Beds heating up faster with 24v is a myth! *(if your using one of these 12/24v pcb heaters) with 24v bed the resistance is (edit: doubled ) quadrupled so the wattage remains the same (ie the rate at wich it heats up) If you do find it heats up quicker than on 12v. your 12v supply had insusficient current or your wires were not thick enough. You can of course get 24v beds that are higher wattaby Dust - Reprappers
the independant youtube video review is here He didnt like it one bit.by Dust - General
What heated bed do you have?, if your trying to power a standard 12v bed with 24v it will try to suck 21 Amps out of it. Since its only 15A supply it will shutdown. The ramps caps you speek of are for the steppers and are on the 5A side. The 11amp side is only for the 11amp fuse and the heated bed. So it is one of those two things. As already mentioned, the 11amp polyfuse is only rated to 16by Dust - RAMPS Electronics
Yes its your endstops. With them unpluged they are triggered, so it will not move negative. ENDSTOP_INVERTING is a cludge to disable that behaviour, but will work.by Dust - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I feel better now about my small collection Prusa 2 mendelmax 1.5 (ish) I3 plate ramps i3 plate 4pi Rostock (moves but no hotend, on hold) Kossel mini (unfinished) (are they ever really finished?) 2 * I3 Milled frame kits, Just started, probbly going to gut Prusa 2 and Rostock for parts) So only 6 going on 8... depends what happens...by Dust - Reprappers
Thats either cabled swapped or firmware not setup for that lcd. (could be a hardware fault to... but not likely) Please post your configiration.h to pastebin.com and link to it here...by Dust - Sanguino(lolu)
As pictured its two coils One coil goes on pins 1 and 2 (2b and 2a) and the second coil to pins 3 and 4 (1a 1b) With 4 wire steppers it doesnt matter wich end of the coil goes to what pin, so long as both coil ends are togeather on the left or the right two pins. The motor direction is just reversed, wich you can fix in firmware, or just flip the entire plug around 180 degrees. So in your caby Dust - General
Only ramps I know of with car fuses is but it is not cheap! Is open source though, so potentualy you could build your own and maybe mass produce them to get them cheaper Only thing I dont like about this board is that the caps are only 16v, so you cant run a 24v steppers on this without replaceing those caps.by Dust - Controllers
Sanguinolu Board only has 64 or 128 or rom... and marlin with a LCD now exceeds that (unless you make changes to reduce size) It the cheapest board out there, no support for second extruder, and know bugs Its definatly on the way out, as far as boards goby Dust - General
ohh ohh lets play spot the troll!! found one see above!by Dust - General
You can use avrdude to display current settings The fuses in the arvdude config are for a generic board, not a reprap.. ie it assumes you want jtag enabled and you have a cyrstal not a resinator. You need to disable jtag or all enstops stop working. I quite like the boot loaders in Just pick you prosessor and frequency the chip run at from the bootloaders directory (gen 7 is same cpu as Sby Dust - Firmware - mainstream and related support
To me that more or less proves there just isnt a boot loader on that chip... or its so weird that your never going to guess its correct settings. Best to put a known bootloader on it. You need a isp avr or a second arduino so you can run to put on the boot loader on it. Be sure to take note of your current FUSE setting before you do this.by Dust - Firmware - mainstream and related support
it was 12v dc? not ac? (ac would be bad)by Dust - Reprappers
reset jumper needs to be on, this is how the boot loader gets run. Presuming a boot loader is installed, it could be using the old upload baud rate (completly seperate from the board rate you set in spriter) take a look in your Sanguino boards.txt It will say one of the following. change it to the othere and restart the arduno IDE and try again. atmega644.upload.speed=57600 atmega644.uploaby Dust - Firmware - mainstream and related support
If its a cartisian (i3 type) one of your axis is backwards normally X0 is at the left and min endstop is on the left Y0 is at the front and min endstop is at the back Looking at the pitures on their site, they have a X endstop on right, this is a max endstop,so needs to be plugged into the max port on a ramps and configured as a max endstop in firmware. X0 is still on the left.by Dust - Reprappers
Some boards have a 12mhz crystal for the USB sperate to the main crystal. I suspect you have one of these in wich case there is a second tiny crystal for the mega...by Dust - Reprappers
CDC – USB Communication Device Classby Dust - General
Its important in relation to where you put your X end stop (at the left) or parts come out mirrored (presuming standard I3 type design)by Dust - General
If that data sheet is accurate then your steppers are wired correctly. I would still check with a multimeter. verfy there is a short from blue to red and from green and black while unplugged, threw the motor. The voltage printed on the steppers is miss leading, its simply the restance * current, you typicaly use 3-4 times that. Ie 12v is fine. The current is a little high.. pololus cant put oby Dust - Reprappers
I'm guessing they have chipped the beds.. Ie there is an eeprom on it that they set to used. Sadly this is a common practice by big asshole companies trying to screw over the little guy for consumables, normally for filament or ink.by Dust - General
Lots of possable issues 1) make sure you have 12v going into 12v 5amp plug on ramps (people seem to like putting 5v in there) 2) check you steppers are wired corectly (there are no standards for the color coded wires) Two coils, make sure coil 1 is on pins 1 and 2 and coil 2 is on pins 3 and 4 of the plug 3) set your current limit pots on the stepticks 4) ensure the microsteping jumpers are instby Dust - Reprappers
Printers will be the dominant form of intelligent life, as humans will be extinctby Dust - General
I3 is current design and has twice the Z height comprared to the I2 I3 also easyer to setup, less parts I would ignore mr "I hate threaded rods".. its just his opinion.. They work fine as main machine structure.by Dust - General
D2 is polarity protection. Its ment to blow when you do just that to save the rest of the board (sadly it doent survive) Replace D2 an cross your fingersby Dust - RAMPS Electronics
It doesnt do either You would have to hack the firmware and hardware to add this featureby Dust - RAMPS Electronics