Endstops is your problem. With a default configuration a disconnected endstop is a triggered endstop so it will not move -ve or home (though moving +10 then -10 should work as it normally only checks endstops on home commands)by Dust - Developers
There is no feed back from the motors, the hardware just presumes they do as they are told. Common issues are: stepper motors not wired correctly. no microsetting jumpers installed no pololu stepper modules installed current not set on pololu driver modules applying 5v to the 12v 5amp connector on a ramps. What electronics are you using?by Dust - Reprappers
check these 3 lines are false, or just for Z as desisred.by Dust - Firmware - mainstream and related support
That add in so many complexities... That wold mean the highest thing you could print would be no higher than than length of your hot end. or the rest of the machine will hit and break the exsisting print. less of an issue with deltas, but the software would still need to know the size of you effector to space the parts wide enough aprt to they dont get hit..by Dust - Reprappers
from the page you linked to A v1.0 board with the PowerIn clearly marked 12-24 volts But looking at the circuit diagram. this will also put 24v were ever there is 12v now, so hot ends, fans, stepper drivers and heated bed. You probbly best to do the ramps trick. Connect the postive of your BED to the 24volt and the -ve to the board connector. The MOSFET controll the -ve leg so will workby Dust - General
str8up Sadly putting solder blobs under a part is a common issue with cheap ramps boards. Ive heard of many examples... though havent struck this partular issue myself. You could always unsolder that pin from the polulo module. that would get around itby Dust - RAMPS Electronics
the question was "modify ramps 1.4 to make it more reliable" not how to make it cheaper!by Dust - RAMPS Electronics
Looks to be type 11 in Marlin.by Dust - General
I've even asked them to put the data into the wiki... they didnt want to... Only negative thing I see is 16v caps... if you want to run a 24v system this wont work. Other than that I like their board more info here also links source filesby Dust - Reprappers
It comes from reprapdiscount.com they designed the Taurino power I love their gear.. Very few hassels. and they have a represntive on #reprap irc channel that you can actualy talk to.by Dust - RAMPS Electronics
*snip* Whats needed Better connectors all over, locking and impossable to plug in backwards and over spec Higher spec mosfets Replace polyfuses with car type fuses 35v caps under pololu drivers so board will support 24v (some do this already) Thicker tracks to all mosfets and their power connector to support more current. Replace D1 with a 8-10volt voltage regulator (so no matter if you use 1by Dust - RAMPS Electronics
firmware is the big issue... cant help there... someone else will have to chime in, I suspect since rumba supports 3, its shouldnt be two difficult. Definaly start by editing pins.h to define the new pins used by your new extruder. I would start with simply changing the current firmware to use your extruder vs e0 or e1 verify it works as expected. Im also intersted in this, since im supportinby Dust - RAMPS Electronics
your mostly correct (and motor voltage and a cap...) and it depends what you have already connected.. eg LCD uses lots of pins... But most likely yes. see for what pins are where you coulld just use (doesnt have an eable line broken out.... but easy to change)by Dust - RAMPS Electronics
check voltage is actuly getting to AM-VIN on the mega. Vin in this image There has been talk of a number of boards where the track is broken so the voltage cant get from D1 to the mega. The other posability is you have killed the voltage regular on the mega.. easy to test. Unplug ramps board, power the mega from the dc jack and try and run something like demo led flash. If it works theby Dust - RAMPS Electronics
at AndrewBCN its not a myth clasic eg for a cheap ramps.... Do you see the issue? The owner tells me it did work fine after fixing this issue. But it very evident there is zero qc.by Dust - RAMPS Electronics
there is no 5v connection on this... there are two power connectors on the ramps 12v 5amp rail and 12v 11amp rail I suspect you have plugged 5v into the 12v 5amp rail... this will run the digital side but is not enought to move the steppers. Nothing should be plugged into the mega power plug, unless you have removed d1 from the ramps. If this is the case then you need a supply to the mega,by Dust - RAMPS Electronics
the two wires should connect S and - on the ramps I would guess you have tried to plug it into + and - wich when shorted kills all power to the board (and can kill the voltage regulator on the mega board) Make sure its plugged in like (this eg is using X min, Y min and Z max, move you wires left and right as needed, but not off of S and -)by Dust - General Mendel Topics
Im thinking some sort of ground loop as serial comms is no where near stepper side... If you have you steppers drvers powered off but connected can you still talk to the mega? What about with stepper power unplugged?by Dust - RAMPS Electronics
Should work... A friends of myne did just this some time back Maybe there is something there you can spotby Dust - RAMPS Electronics
also uploading firmware is not part of sprinter, but is part of the boot loader So changeing the baud rate in sprinter will have zero effect on firmware upload speed. What it does change is the speed you talk to the computer while its printing and you can set any valid bauds rates. But!... since its a slow micro some baud rates are not advisable as they have high error rates for eg on a 16mby Dust - Developers
also dont buy a $7 china ramps with 5amp connectors on the 11amp side!by Dust - RAMPS Electronics
see for an overview its basiclay replaces the serial over usb cable... can print over it (not advised) or just montor with standard tools like pronterfaceby Dust - RAMPS Electronics
1) yor have 16v caps for the stepper. wich means your board can't do 24 volt (wich a lot of us want) 2) you still have poly fuses. Please replace with real fuses eg mini car fuses like ramps-fd and 4pi use.by Dust - RAMPS Electronics
you have not set you board type in configuration .h Presuming your using the latest marlin... Line you need to set it to change it from BOARD_RAMPS_13_EFB to BOARD_SANGUINOLOLU_12by Dust - Sanguino(lolu)
Im guessing your using Arduino: 1.6.X you cant use that... go back to 1.0.6by Dust - Sanguino(lolu)
use ARDUINO 1.0.6 It doesnt come with support for the 1284p, you have to add it by adding files from Sanguino-0101r1.zip If you are putting you own bootloader on the chip you will need to edit the boards.txt file and set the fuses you want as the default leaves the jtag enabled wich stops all endstops and x direction lines working.by Dust - Sanguino(lolu)
Did you plug in a external power 12v supply into the ramps board (not the mega under it) Also most firwares will not runn without thirmisters connected. (or just put a 100k resitor on the thirmister inputs) I would also use Printrun/pronterface while testing.. these silly GUI's hide error messages!by Dust - RAMPS Electronics
smart controller is designd for 5v operation. the AZSMZ is deigned for 3.3v... you would need a level shifter since its smoothieware you could protentualy use the universal_adapterby Dust - Controllers
Most likly your endstops are wired incorrectly, maybe you have them plugged in backwards? They are just swicthes and should connect S to - it sounds lke you are connecting + to - wich will stop everything. and most times kill the voltage regulator on the megaby Dust - RAMPS Electronics